Too much filtration?

[Instigate]

i also have just tested my nitrates at 0 undetectable. phosphates at .10. I have to increase my nitrates without increasing phosphates. To do this I plan on keeping my gfo. feeding a little heavier on dry flakes and pellets and keep my mysis shrimp and frozen food to a min. I heard dry flakes and pellets were higher in nitrates than phosphates. Turn my skimmer to a much dryer skim.

I am thinking undetectable nitrates with some phosphates around .10 are causing my cyano. I also have bubble algae. Other than that no algae and very clean rocks, etc. I just start developing coraline.

You could also just dose some NeoNitro. Would be more precise.

 

[Flippers4pups]

does my plan sound good?

In a new system with little coral load, I would let the water " dirty" up a bit and use GFO if my P04 was higher than my N03. The idea is to let the N03 be higher than the P04.

 

[Mrcote1]

Yea I've burned a lot of money so far on this system between corals and fish (and me switching my lighting) The fish were from disease in qt though. Corals are surviving so I dont want to do anything drastic because I know that's a deal breaker for sps. So upping the feeding and cutting back on gfo will be my first step for the first month. Then I'll re evaluate and adjust based on coral health

Good plan?

 

[Nathan Milender]

i also have just tested my nitrates at 0 undetectable. phosphates at .10. I have to increase my nitrates without increasing phosphates. To do this I plan on keeping my gfo. feeding a little heavier on dry flakes and pellets and keep my mysis shrimp and frozen food to a min. I heard dry flakes and pellets were higher in nitrates than phosphates. Turn my skimmer to a much dryer skim.

I am thinking undetectable nitrates with some phosphates around .10 are causing my cyano. I also have bubble algae. Other than that no algae and very clean rocks, etc. I just start developing coraline.

If I had the link I would include it but I do not, maybe someone will give the article on dinos. My understanding however is that very low nutrients may exacerbate your dino's as they can then outcompete more desirable microbes by relying on photosynthesis while the others are starved. I would stop the carbon and the gfo, let nature take it's course with food and you will get nitrate. Do a 25% water change and vacuum up the dino. Wait and see, sounds like nothing is dying. As far as food, when I have trouble I go to the most realistic live looking food I can. This would pods, hatched, brine, then frozen. Flakes and pellets are convenient, but like twinkies, the more processing usually the worse things are for how nature made them. I would simplify, not complicate.

 

[Reefin Dude]

i think that there is some confusion about what the levels of N and P in the water column could actually mean for some systems. for oligotrophic systems having clean water is great. if they find that they need to add N and P to the system, this tends to mean that they are not feeding the corals enough or the correct size. the corals are now feeding on the bacteria in the water column feeding on the N and P and not the actual inorganic N and P available. they are predators. testable N and P are not on the menu of the corals. on the menu for the zoax, but not for the corals. there is a fine balance here. having to high in organic N and P can lead to browning out as the zoax are not calling the shots in the corals.

G~

 

[Flippers4pups]

i think that there is some confusion about what the levels of N and P in the water column could actually mean for some systems. for oligotrophic systems having clean water is great. if they find that they need to add N and P to the system, this tends to mean that they are not feeding the corals enough or the correct size. the corals are now feeding on the bacteria in the water column feeding on the N and P and not the actual inorganic N and P available. they are predators. testable N and P are not on the menu of the corals. on the menu for the zoax, but not for the corals. there is a fine balance here. having to high in organic N and P can lead to browning out as the zoax are not calling the shots in the corals.

G~

Corals can and do up take, through the zooxanthellae, N03 and P04 through photosynthesis. The result is in sugars produced by the zooxanthellae that feeds it host tissue. If microfauna was the only way corals could feed through their mouths, then most likely we would not be having this discussion and the hobby would be much different. Respectfully.

 

[Mrcote1]

Which would you say is more important, feeding your coral enough, or keeping some trace amounts of po4 and No3?

 

[Neo Jeo]

Im gonna try the NYOS Nitrate (NO3) Reefer Aquarium Test Kit the salfait one is hard to read and the ATI is a little better but all depends on light. With the ATI kit do you have the tube right on the white paper or hovering? If I have it right on the paper it gets darker vs hovering and its lighter.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Which would you say is more important, feeding your coral enough, or keeping some trace amounts of po4 and No3?

Our enclosed systems can do both, but with caution. Overfeeding coral specific foods can led to water quality issues. Both coral specific foods and broadcast feeding can have their benefits, but has to be done sparingly because of the water quality issues.

The rest and the majority is up take in available soluble nutrients in the water collum through photosynthesis.

If this wasn't the case, we couldn't keep corals In our boxes. So yes, you need some N03 and P04 in our systems.

 

[Mrcote1]

How often do you feed and what do you feed your coral when you do

 

[madweazl]

Which would you say is more important, feeding your coral enough, or keeping some trace amounts of po4 and No3?

I don't directly feed my corals anything; I feed the fish (the corals may catch some of that) and I light the tank. I regard 99% of the coral foods as snake oil that is completely unnecessary if you're feeding your fish.

In regard to test kits, I prefer the Salifert kit to the Red Sea Pro (takes 3x as long and isn't any more accurate for me) so I wouldn't worry about changing the kit. You mentioned the Hanna low range but you'll want to grab the ULTRA low range (HI736).

Alkalinity - I've had the best luck with acroporas right around 7 dKh (I'm not sure why so many stray even further away from NSW).
Nitrate - best results under 2ppm
Phosphate - no observable difference between .01ppm and .2ppm.

I run GAC 24/7 (water clarity being the goal)
Skimmer 24/7
No filter socks/pads (I figure those "floaties" in the water column are feeding something...)

Edit: I feed LRS Reef Frenzy and whole, littleneck clams. I avoid flakes and pellets (again, why stray from what is in the ocean).

 

[Flippers4pups]

How often do you feed and what do you feed your coral when you do

I feed fish. Broadcast food to them. Small partical uneaten pieces may be taken up by my corals. Once a day, LRS reef frenzy. Size of my thumb nail. The rest is up take with N03 and P04.

 

[lapin]

How often do you feed and what do you feed your coral when you do

I feed my zooxanthellae light which in turn feed my corals. Once a week (Sunday eve) I feed my tank PhytoFeast, OysterFeast ReefRoids and 2 cubes frozen. (1 rotifer, 1 cyclopeze). If I have any fresh hatched brine left from the week they get that to. Mixed up in a 500ml beaker. This is just for the coral. Some get a turkey baster shot, some just get drive by. Tank is usually clear by morning.