Took the plunge but questions

[Pook]

Hello Reef2Reef!

I have been a lurker for a while but in September I went on a whim and got a Red Sea Reefer 250 (came with the V3 sump) and then last month I got the majority of equipment, live sand and dry rock. So in the interim until I have time off so I can properly set up the tank, I have been playing around and inspecting the goods. I plan to eventually get some softies and LPS corals (I like the way torches sway).
Equipment
Sicce Syncra Silent 4.0 (overkill much?)
Cobalt Neo-therm Heater (200W)
MP40 Powerhead
AquaIllumination HD x2
AquaIllumination AI HD x2
Red Sea Salt Coral Pro Bucket 175gal
1 Bottle of NoPox Red Sea
Red Sea RCP Reef Foundation Pro Test Kit
Red Sea Marine Care (NH3/NH4 | NO3 | NO2 | pH | KH) Test Kit
Refractometer + Calibration Sol.
CaribSea South Seas Base Rock 40lb
DrTim’s Aquatics One & Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria for Cycling Reef 8oz (1)
CaribSea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink Live Sand - 20lb (2)
Aquatic Life Twist-In 4 Stage RO Unit 100gpd
Trigger Systems Crystal ATO Reservoir Tank - 10 Gallon
Siphon System
Flipper Standard 2 in 1 Magnetic Aquarium Algae Cleaner - Up to 1/2" (12MM)
Neptune Systems New Generation EL
Neptune Systems Automatic Feeding System - AFS
Neptune Probe Holder
Neptune Leak Detection Kit (LDK)
Red Sea 225 Micron Thin-Mesh Filter Bag - Sock (2)
MarinePure 8x4x4
Jebao Tw-10 (salt mixing)
Marineland Precision Submersible Heater - 200 W (salt mixing)
Coralife Aqua Gloves 1 Pair
Boyd Chemi-Pure Blue - 11 oz (x 3)
Somatic Protein Skimmer 60S
XP Aqua Duetto Dual-Sensor ATO

So my 2 (multipart) main questions are:

1. I was checking the level/balance of the aquarium (empty) and I noticed from back to front it is 1/8inch higher in the back and 1/16inch higher right to left. I am on engineered hardwood and shimming the stand is downright stressful for myself (all by myself) is the 1/8 inch off level that worrisome? Will it level out a little more when the rocks and sand are in place?

2. a)I noticed that the Sicce 4.0 pump return outlet is 3/4 inch wide. The hose that comes with the Red Sea Reefer is 3/4 inch wide and the barb return inlet to the aquarium is 5/8 inches. I tried to get the return hose to fit on the Sicce outlet and it just won't get on. I have read that I can heat up the hose in hot water to soften it and then force it on. I would use hose clamps on both sides but is this good enough? I did try it with a small piece of the hose cut off, but I don't want to compromise the overall integrity of the hose?
b) OR Should I get a new 1 inch hose which is more compatible with the pump but is a little looser with the 5/8 barb? I am not sure what the best solution? Is the smaller diameter hose even adequate to deal with the power of the Sicce 4.0. I realized that regardless at least when it comes to the Sicce pumps even if I stepped down to a lower power, I would have had the fitting issues regardless.

I appreciate any feedback and tips. If you think I am missing anything please don't hesitate to tell me. I am still trying to get my bearings before I leak test because I wanted to get the pump running in the aquarium first.

Thank you.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

 

[geddavis]

1 should be fine but I would shim it for sure. I just felt with a few leeks on one of my tanks it is not worth the risk.

2 I would heat it up and clamp it I did that for all of my tanks and I have no leaks or problems.

Your tank looks really nice and like you have done a lot of planning and reserch. I’m sure it will be a great tank in no time.

 

[lion king]

Wow you really jumped in, that's going to be a great build. You can use a blow dryer to heat up the hose to get it on the 3/4", shouldn't be a problem. The variance in the water level shouldn't be an issue, you'll be well within the limits. 1/8" is a big difference, but from front to back you'll likely not notice it, you'll be getting water movement on the surface and you likely won't notice 1/16" from left to right. If you are OCD then all bets are off.

Hold off on using the nopox until the tank is well established and you actually have nitrates to deal with. Also note that nopox will address nitrates only, not phosphates; a more balanced approach would be using macro algae.

 

[SPR1968]

Great looking tank and pictures and welcome to R2R as well!

I would try and get it as level as you can without ‘hurting yourself’ as although it may be ok, it might just annoy you once full of water when your looking at it.

 

[Super Fly]

2. a)I noticed that the Sicce 4.0 pump return outlet is 3/4 inch wide. The hose that comes with the Red Sea Reefer is 3/4 inch wide and the barb return inlet to the aquarium is 5/8 inches. I tried to get the return hose to fit on the Sicce outlet and it just won't get on. I have read that I can heat up the hose in hot water to soften it and then force it on. I would use hose clamps on both sides but is this good enough? I did try it with a small piece of the hose cut off, but I don't want to compromise the overall integrity of the hose?
b) OR Should I get a new 1 inch hose which is more compatible with the pump but is a little looser with the 5/8 barb? I am not sure what the best solution? Is the smaller diameter hose even adequate to deal with the power of the Sicce 4.0. I realized that regardless at least when it comes to the Sicce pumps even if I stepped down to a lower power, I would have had the fitting issues regardless.

That's an awesome system for 1st tank, so jelly!
Boil some water and soak the tip of 3/4 hose in it for 10-20 seconds to get it soft and push onto fitting, it'll slide right on w minimal effort. Make sure it's sitting on the barb while it cools and put a zip tie onto to. FYI - the only way to remove this hose later on is to cut it off.

 

[jtl]

Heat the hose and force it one the bib, do not over size the hose. Clamp it in either case.
Shim the stand to get if perfectly level. You will not like a water line that is not level and once the tank is full it is too late, practically speaking. You can do it without help. Put a pry bar under the corner raise the stand and slip in a shim. The shim can be a regular shim or anything that fills the gap should be very noticeable. It will not level out when it is full.

 

[reef lover]

#Welcometor2r !!

 

[Pook]

Thank you all for giving feedback. I am looking for corrosion resistant hose clamps but I do also have zip ties so in the interim I can use them.

As for shimming, it seems that my level was not the most accurate, and the aquarium is in fact off 1/8" on the left side of the tank and the front of the tank. Stupid condo floors...

But very important question about shimming, the Red Sea Reefer has feet (little plastic nubs) should I shim under the feet or under the frame or it doesn't matter? I got myself one of the inflating bags which allowed me to put the plastic shims underneath. I am still just focusing on the front first. This feels so harrowing when you are on your own doing it.

 

[jtl]

I would something under the "foot" but probably not a traditional shim. Go to Lowes or HD and see if you can find a washer or two that will equal 1/8" when stacked , even a nut will work and they are usually thicker. Anything that is flat and about the size of the "foot" or slightly larger. A shim is large and slanted. A couple of washers or a nut both have a center hole for the "foot" to set in and it won't slide out and the appearance will be much better than a shim.

 

[speedstar]

Also don't be surprised if it goes out of level once full depending on the floor design and age. You may want to wet test the level before filling with RO/salt

 

[Lovemyreef2015]

 

[Pook]

Also don't be surprised if it goes out of level once full depending on the floor design and age. You may want to wet test the level before filling with RO/salt

I totally realized that as I was beginning to level the aquarium. More things for me to take into account!

 

[jtl]

Don't let me discourage you but if leveling the tank is an issue what comes next will really get your attention.

 

[Geebs19]

Welcome to R2R!!

 

[Pook]

Don't let me discourage you but if leveling the tank is an issue what comes next will really get your attention.

Nope, I need yours and everyone's feedback to ensure that I am on the right track. A little overwhelmed but definitely not discouraged. I am pretty confident with cycling and the chemistry of the tank, it's the infrastructure of the tank and stability on the ground I am concerned about. I want to minimize the chance of a seam to popping due to the level and then my wife says no tanks ever again!

So I have the plastic shims that are slowly leveling the front side and the left side of the tank. Since I have never really had to level a piece of furniture (I have been lucky with level furniture or not needing that degree of precision)


So do I now have to put shims on the opposite sides to make sure all the feet touch the floor? Or should I wait till the water is in the tank?

 

[jtl]

You want all 4 corners to be supported. I am a little surprised that you need to mess with the other corners. If you raise one corner by 1/8" and then need to raise the others by a like amount than you have accomplished nothing. Did you by chance raise the suspect corner my too much? Do the feet have any adjustment? Can they be turned to raise or lower the cabinet. Pics may help me.

 

[Pook]

So I have 3 shims on the left side of the tank (3 feet - ignore the loose shim near the wall, it is not underneath anything) and 4 shims on the front of the tank (4 feet). Unfortunately the feet on the Red Sea Reefer stand are non-adjustable. Everything seems pretty balance right now which I am satisfied with, but I will be doing the leak test today (over 48hrs) and will obviously check the balance of the tank when filled. Am I good to go?

 

[jtl]

You probably only need to shim the corners, which I assume is where the feet are located. Stands are designed to handle the downward force from the corners, not that additional shim hurt anything. When you are satisfied score the shims with a utility knife (new blade) being careful not to cut all the way through into your floor. Scoring them will let you snap them off pretty cleanly. Looking good.

 

[Pook]

You probably only need to shim the corners, which I assume is where the feet are located. Stands are designed to handle the downward force from the corners, not that additional shim hurt anything. When you are satisfied score the shims with a utility knife (new blade) being careful not to cut all the way through into your floor. Scoring them will let you snap them off pretty cleanly. Looking good.

JTL, first and foremost I appreciate all of your advice, it is much less stressful having someone giving your feedback as you go.

My aquarium pre-water test is now 100% leveled, I will make any adjustments post-water test accordingly.

Currently though before I do that, I want to get my pump on so I can circulate the water during the test. YET I am still struggling to get the vinyl pipe supplied by Red Sea onto my Sicce barb. I have heated the pipe but it is highly resistant to getting on. I made the unfortunate mistake of attaching it to the return outlet in the cabinet already so I might have to cut it off, get new 5/8" NPT vinyl hose and start from scratch.

Is leaving the vinyl hose in hot water for greater than 1 minute going to weaken the overall integrity of the hose?

Should I get Silicone Tubing for more flexibility?