Took the plunge but questions

[jtl]

JTL, first and foremost I appreciate all of your advice, it is much less stressful having someone giving your feedback as you go.

My aquarium pre-water test is now 100% leveled, I will make any adjustments post-water test accordingly.

Currently though before I do that, I want to get my pump on so I can circulate the water during the test. YET I am still struggling to get the vinyl pipe supplied by Red Sea onto my Sicce barb. I have heated the pipe but it is highly resistant to getting on. I made the unfortunate mistake of attaching it to the return outlet in the cabinet already so I might have to cut it off, get new 5/8" NPT vinyl hose and start from scratch.

Is leaving the vinyl hose in hot water for greater than 1 minute going to weaken the overall integrity of the hose?

Should I get Silicone Tubing for more flexibility?

Leave the hose in the VERY HOT water as in boiling hot for as long as it takes to make it pliable. I have found that large sizes take quite a bit of heat to soften them. I once heated one with a torch, not that I recommend it. Hot water or a hair dryer on high will not hurt the hose and it will resume to normal when cool. Silicone tubing is very easy to work with but a little pricey.

 

[Cruz Mc5]

Thank you all for giving feedback. I am looking for corrosion resistant hose clamps but I do also have zip ties so in the interim I can use them.

I used these clamps from BRS for my return tubing. Zip ties are tough to get tight enough to really do anything even with a tightening tool.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ratchet-clamp-for-tubing-1-6684828461f4e5bda1e2a33b5e0db6d3.html

 

[Pook]

I used these clamps from BRS for my return tubing. Zip ties are tough to get tight enough to really do anything even with a tightening tool.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ratchet-clamp-for-tubing-1-6684828461f4e5bda1e2a33b5e0db6d3.html

I got a couple of those 3/4" ones from my LFS and had to use zip ties for the upper tie (took small for 3/4" and too large for 1/2" - hopefully will find corrosion resistant hose clamp for that one). I am currently doing a leak test for the next 48hrs then going to drain the tank and get ready to set stuff up!

For the record, getting the heated vinyl hose on the barb was one of the worst experience I have ever had! I have blisters on my hands from struggling to get it on!


Getting the water level correct so that the downflown valve and the water level in the overflow is downright tricky! I cannot seem to get the volume of water in the overflow to 1/4" shorter than the emergency drain. Should I be adding more water? I turned off the pump and the siphon almost overflowed it. What is the best method to get the right water volume?

How do I also make sure I don't get too much of a back siphon so I don't ruin my house.

 

[Cruz Mc5]

Yeah. Vinyl tubing is a huge pain to deal with.

What kind of drain system do you have?

 

[Pook]

The one provided with the Red Sea Reefer 250 by the manufacturer. I am reading the manual now.

https://www.redseafish.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/REEFER-Series-manuals-all-models-1.pdf

I was adding quite a bit of water but there was no increase in the volume of water in the overflow (which was why it was super noisy). Is it a problem that I have a powerful pump in my tank Sicce 4.0. I remember reading that I should try and have the volume of water in the return chamber to be roughly 2" above the pump?

 

[Cruz Mc5]

Is there a valve on the main drain line?

 

[Pook]

Where would I find that information?

 

[Cruz Mc5]

Where would I find that information?

In looking at the manual, there is a gate valve on the main drain. You should be able to adjust the flow of the main drain to set the level of the water in the overflow box. Right now it’s probably open all the way, so your drain is pulling out more water than you have returning to the tank. If you slow the main drain down a little, it should let the water level rise a bit.

 

[Pook]

Okay, I will play around with it tomorrow after work. I'll try and see if I can get the water level to adjust to the correct level, if not, just try and try again. Will give a report back.

 

[jtl]

The water level is a function of the pump flow and the main drain flow. Most chose to make adjustments using the main drain valve instead of throttling back the pump volume. Reducing the volume of water coming from the main drain cause the water level in overflow to rise.

 

[Pook]

Hey all,

So I have opened the pump volume to max on my Sicce 4.0 (which actually with the head height, max gives the right GPH recommendations as per Red Sea) and added a little more water, yet nothing is happening with the volume of water in the overflow. It has remained stationary but the volume of water in the return pump area of the sump has increased.

I have been trying to tune the amount of water using the down flow valve. I turned it from counter-clockwise (I am assuming as per the manual it is open fully) and then when I turn it clockwise to close it, nothing happens at all. In fact I can keep turning it clockwise....forever.

Should I be adding more water? Is there something wrong with my valve? Does anyone know if you can keep turning it perpetually clockwise to close it, but a limit on getting the valve open?

 

[Cruz Mc5]

Sounds like a problem with the gate valve. It should stop turning when it closes. And that’s why you’re not able to adjust the water volume in your overflow box. It’s outperforming your pump currently.

 

[Pook]

So good news, I took the gate valve apart from the down hose, reinstalled it, and now it actually works!

Bad news...I have a scratch on the front panel of glass that is deep enough that it can be felt by a fingernail :mad:. From what I have been reading, there is not much I can do about it easily? Please tell me I am wrong...

 

[Cruz Mc5]

Glad you got the gate valve figured out. Bummer about the scratch. Unfortunately, I think you’re pretty much right, nothing you can really do about it.

 

[Pook]

Glad you got the gate valve figured out. Bummer about the scratch. Unfortunately, I think you’re pretty much right, nothing you can really do about it.

It shouldn’t impact glass integrity thought right? Just kill my soul a little every time I look at it..

 

[Cruz Mc5]

Yeah exactly. Fortunately (or unfortunately depending on how you look at it) you’re likely the only one that will notice it, especially once it’s full of fish and coral.

 

[jtl]

It took me a year to get my first scratch but eventually it happens to everyone. Just be glad you don't have an acrylic tank.

 

[Mordie101]

Can you post a picture of your sump layout and the supplies you used? I have been trying to look stuff up but can’t find much on the v3 and this is my first tank to plumb anything in so I’m pretty nervous about it all. I am picking up my tank in a few days!

 

[Pook]

Can you post a picture of your sump layout and the supplies you used? I have been trying to look stuff up but can’t find much on the v3 and this is my first tank to plumb anything in so I’m pretty nervous about it all. I am picking up my tank in a few days!

In what sense do you mean supplies used? I listed the equipment that I purchased, but I also got hose clamps both plastic and just today Grade 316 stainless steel hose clamps. I am in Canada so I had to get the metal hose clamps on Amazon from the United States ( for some reason the home improvement stores didn’t carry marine grade plumbing). I used those for the top plumbing, but used two 3/4” plastic hose clamps for the pump because they will be in the salt water and because I already had them on before I got the metal ones. I have zero intention of removing them since I had a such an issue with getting the hose on the barb.

In terms of the V3 sump, I am still debating if I use the divider for the “refugium” area because I will only have MarinePure blocks. If I can have them by the protein skimmer without any issue to their performance then I wouldn’t use it.



I have a 10 gallon ATO Reservoir from Trigger Systems next to the sump.

Right now the next steps are finishing the balancing of the aquarium by scoring the shims and removing the excesss plastic.

Then I need to get my RODI system plumbed in my second bathroom.

And finally before I fill the tank I need to get all the electronics wired and mounted which is what I am having the most difficulty. I want to get an IKEA Besta cabinet but realized that drilling into particle board is nearly impossible. So that is the hurdle I am at in terms of getting ready. If anyone knows how to drill into particle board to attach a solid piece of wood to be slanted I would appreciate the help.

 

[Flameback Pair]

@Pook How is the tank coming along? Is this your build thread? I have an RSR 250 too !!!