Top brace cracks

BRS
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3/4 glass , that is an old tank ! The Captain notes the cracks pass thru the frame but that glass is so thick. What is the distance from front corner to corner? can you get a long straight edge level or such & see if it lays straight across the glass .
Finding a frame for that is a long shot for sure.
I wonder if a frame could be made with a 3D printer.
 
Nutramar Foods
Honestly, if the tank is really 3/4" remove the trim and clean it up. 3/4" on a 24" deep tank is fine.

I don't know who all hear has built tanks but, I can tell you it will be ok.

That being said, The thickest I have seen a 75 was 1/2" we derimmed it and it is still up and running 3 years later.
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
dantimdad said:
Honestly, if the tank is really 3/4" remove the trim and clean it up. 3/4" on a 24" deep tank is fine.

I don't know who all hear has built tanks but, I can tell you it will be ok.

That being said, The thickest I have seen a 75 was 1/2" we derimmed it and it is still up and running 3 years later.
Click to expand...
When I get home I will take a picture of the glass thickness. The tank is 48" L x 18" W 24" H
 
cracker said:
3/4 glass , that is an old tank ! The Captain notes the cracks pass thru the frame but that glass is so thick. What is the distance from front corner to corner? can you get a long straight edge level or such & see if it lays straight across the glass .
Finding a frame for that is a long shot for sure.
I wonder if a frame could be made with a 3D printer.
Click to expand...
The tank is perfectly level. I used a straight edge this morning and it was perfect.
 
thanks Terrence, I meant across the front glass to check for bowing.
I think You will be fine I liked the idea of some type of euro bracing just to make sure .
 
BRS
If your tank is 3/4" thick glass and your existing silicone seals look to be in good shape, you could get by with removing the brace. If your tank was taller than 24", I would be more cautious. Of course, having a a plastic brace or eurobracing will help support the tank, but if you were to have a tank of that size built today (but rimless), you'd most likely see manufacturers only using 1/2" glass.

For what it's worth, I had a rimmed 75 gallon tank that I cut the center brace out of years ago (before I knew better). It was 3/8" glass and did cause the tank to bow out about 4 mm. It held up, but I'd never do that again.
 
Daniel Waters said:
If your tank is 3/4" thick glass and your existing silicone seals look to be in good shape, you could get by with removing the brace. If your tank was taller than 24", I would be more cautious. Of course, having a a plastic brace or eurobracing will help support the tank, but if you were to have a tank of that size built today (but rimless), you'd most likely see manufacturers only using 1/2" glass.

For what it's worth, I had a rimmed 75 gallon tank that I cut the center brace out of years ago (before I knew better). It was 3/8" glass and did cause the tank to bow out about 4 mm. It held up, but I'd never do that again.
Click to expand...
Once I get home, I'm going to post a photo of the thickness of my glass with a scale. I was really surprised that the glass was that thick. I couldn't find anything regarding 3/4" thickness that was good or bad. So I was skeptical.
 
Chewy.com
Terrence Henderson said:
Once I get home, I'm going to post a photo of the thickness of my glass with a scale. I was really surprised that the glass was that thick. I couldn't find anything regarding 3/4" thickness that was good or bad. So I was skeptical.
Click to expand...
Thicker glass will provide more structural support. Downside is it's heavier and probably the high iron glass that has a greenish tint to it (versus a lot of low iron tanks you see nowadays). Other downside is if you were building a tank with that thickness, it would be more expensive. Thus, you typically don't come across tanks your size with that thickness.

If you really want to put your mind at ease, you can do a search online for aquarium glass thickness calculators that will show you recommended glass thickness for various tank dimensions. Some calculations may also show you the corresponding safety factor if you want to get really detailed. You can read all that for yourself and make your own mind up. With your tank, assuming it is an older tank, I would be more concerned about the silicone seals being in good shape than I would the top brace.
 
Curious . When you are measuring the glass thickness are you sure your Measuring the glass not the whole seam .You usually need to measure it at the side of the tank and measure the front glass. Using your tape measure put it at say 5 inches not hooked on it or using inch one..

Secondly The Manufacture Braced the TANK Because there engineers said it needed to be done. They do not spend money they do not have to Just to put a piece of plastic in the way.The Frame around the top of that tank is Rotten , I have seen many tanks end up like this Those Cracks will only get worse . Rather it needs the frame at all well I would not chance it. If it were me I would have a Glass shop cut and round over the edges of 3/8 inch to 1/2 glass 2 to 3 inches wide to go all the way around the tank. With small pieces to go under them at each corner . This should be good enough to not need the Center brace But i would still prob put one in as well.. If it is 3/4 glass and you do not know how old it is The sealant may not be strong enough to RIMLESS .

Just my Opinion. its better to be overly Caution then have it fail.
 
Erica-Renee said:
Curious . When you are measuring the glass thickness are you sure your Measuring the glass not the whole seam .You usually need to measure it at the side of the tank and measure the front glass. Using your tape measure put it at say 5 inches not hooked on it or using inch one..

Secondly The Manufacture Braced the TANK Because there engineers said it needed to be done. They do not spend money they do not have to Just to put a piece of plastic in the way.The Frame around the top of that tank is Rotten , I have seen many tanks end up like this Those Cracks will only get worse . Rather it needs the frame at all well I would not chance it. If it were me I would have a Glass shop cut and round over the edges of 3/8 inch to 1/2 glass 2 to 3 inches wide to go all the way around the tank. With small pieces to go under them at each corner . This should be good enough to not need the Center brace But i would still prob put one in as well.. If it is 3/4 glass and you do not know how old it is The sealant may not be strong enough to RIMLESS .

Just my Opinion. its better to be overly Caution then have it fail.
Click to expand...
Once I remeasure I'll post a picture of it. I'll start pricing out glass shop in my area.
 
Tidal Gardens
This is my glass thickness.
20181029_174022.jpg
20181029_174654.jpg
 
Deltec
For Sure 3/8 You need full Euro bracing or a NEW Top Frame. There is NO other viable solution.. Repairing it with some type of epoxy in my opinion is only a patch waiting to break.. If your frame has been broken at one spot and now slow Stress cracks I Would say a Repair might be Viable..

https://www.aquariumframeswholesale.com/48-x-18-frame
 
OK saying there is no other viable solution is not the answer.

In all actuality, you could do a front and back brace out of 3/8 inside the tank and it would be fine for years.

The truth of the matter is, Petco is having a sale on tanks. It would be cheaper to go get a 75 brand new than ordering the stuff to euro brace this one.

I have built and repaired literally hundreds of tanks in the last 30+ years. But, I am not the end all be all of answers.

There is more than one way to remove the hide from a feline.
 
Tidal Gardens
BRS

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