Torch coral not fully opening help

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Hello I had this torch for about 3 months…at first it would open fully…but now it hardly opens…dose anyone know why? Par is about 100… just diped it with coral rx about 2 weeks to see if it was a pest nothing came off of it

ph 8.5
Dkh 8.4
Calcium 403
Mag 1290
Nitrate 8
Phosphate 0.08 69CE7D60-0769-412B-8F81-2105DB651AA9.jpeg 718454AF-D132-4BCD-89E8-215A4E036C84.jpeg
 

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What’s the flow like? Has anything changed in the tank since it was fully opened?
 
Hmm can’t tell much but the fact that your other LPS are doing well I’m inclined to say something’s attacking the torch or stressing them out.
Do you have some lugol’s iodine dip? That’ll help the polyps come out and improve in coloration as well
 
Hmm can’t tell much but the fact that your other LPS are doing well I’m inclined to say something’s attacking the torch or stressing them out.
Do you have some lugol’s iodine dip? That’ll help the polyps come out and improve in coloration as well
Yea I have some
 
Sorry your torch is having issues. It’s heartbreaking watching our prized corals struggle.

Many torches come to our tanks carrying small amounts of a bacteria from the Arcobacter sp. Eli at @AquaBiomics has done a lot of work on this. The Arcobacter tends to easily grow in population on our tanks and euphyllia are highly sensitive to that bacteria. At first the torches shrivel and recede like this. Then all of a sudden, one day, they just begin to melt away.

The good news is the fix is easy if you catch it before the melting begins. I’d recommend you get yourself some ciprofloxacin. Its an antibiotic but you can get it at some fish shops or online since there are “aquatic versions” of it.
Arcobacter is super sensitive to it so you can safely use it at low doses directly in your tank - if done correctly it won’t hurt a thing. I know, I’ve used it a lot since I keep many torches.

You crush a 500 mg tablet and mix it well in 50 mL of RODI water. Once mixed keep it in the fridge, and cover the jar or use a dark jar if you can since light tends to degrade it.

To dose, calculate how many liters in your tank. Then draw up 0.125 mg/L and put it directly in your display, in a high flow area, after lights out. Remove carbon if you use it.


For reference, in my 65 gallon tank I add 3 mL of the mixed solution

Repeat every other day for a total of 3-4 doses. It is likely you’ll see improvement in 24-48 hours
 
PH slightly high (8.1-8.3)
For starters, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including:
Temperature around 78 degrees
Specific gravity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2
CA of about 400 ppm

Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting. Torches are aggressive corals that protect themselves by wielding their sweeper tentacles maliciously.
 
PH slightly high (8.1-8.3)
For starters, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including:
Temperature around 78 degrees
Specific gravity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2
CA of about 400 ppm

Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting. Torches are aggressive corals that protect themselves by wielding their sweeper tentacles maliciously
How do I lower the ph? I don’t have leather coralsAlso did u see my video of the torch here the link https://youtube.com/shorts/e_TdlLWFDYY?feature=share
 
Last edited:
saw video now. I wasnt home yet.
Flow may be a tad too low. As for Ph- Aim a fan at top of tank or Sump and you will see slight change
 
PH slightly high (8.1-8.3)
For starters, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including:
Temperature around 78 degrees
Specific gravity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2
CA of about 400 ppm

Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting. Torches are aggressive corals that protect themselves by wielding their sweeper tentacles maliciously.
@vetteguy53081 plagiarizing other people's work again.

These aren't your thoughts and this isn't your work. Cite your sources.
 
@vetteguy53081 plagiarizing other people's work again.

These aren't your thoughts and this isn't your work. Cite your sources.
Winner for most unnecessary post of the year already? What's the purpose of this? Why would you try and cause problems for someone who helps so many people? Maybe next time just move on instead of trying to cause issues. This site is designed to try and help people. If that's being accomplished then just shhhhhhh.....
 
Winner for most unnecessary post of the year already? What's the purpose of this? Why would you try and cause problems for someone who helps so many people? Maybe next time just move on instead of trying to cause issues. This site is designed to try and help people. If that's being accomplished then just shhhhhhh.....
Just cite the source...takes 2 seconds.

Copying and pasting other people's work isn't cool.
 
So you see nothing wrong with not crediting other people for their work?

Someone actually took the time to write out all the information.

If you wanna copy and paste someone else's work that's fine...just give credit where credit is due.
 
So you see nothing wrong with not crediting other people for their work?

Someone actually took the time to write out all the information.

If you wanna copy and paste someone else's work that's fine...just give credit where credit is due.
Im out of town and Yes trying to provide info which I often save to help one in distress . Welcome to the insult club.
Helping many while at work during the day often overlooked but i do it anyway.
No problem for me- You just got added to my "blocked" list . Youre very welcome
 
Im out of town and Yes trying to provide info which I often save to help one in distress . Welcome to the insult club.
Helping many while at work during the day often overlooked but i do it anyway.
No problem for me- You just got added to my "blocked" list . Youre very welcome
This is the type of response I would expect from someone that steals other people's work.
 

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