Torch coral not fully opening help

[Jekyl]

This is the type of response I would expect from someone that steals other people's work.

Type of response I expect from someone who has nothing to offer. Let it go. You've side tracked a post to try and discredit someone who helps more people in 1 day than you have for the duration of the time on the forum. Regardless of methods, you just seem to be a bad, jealous person.

 

[Bribo12]

To be fair the copy and pasted article did nothing to help op and honestly is just general information that usually won’t help anyone as it just offers generalized answers to general torch care. It doesn’t account for other issues that could be at play like shipping issues or bacterial infections. Op even stated it did nothing to help. You’d think someone whose such a recognizable member could offer more in depth analysis? I’m not trying to poke the issue but I’m just saying.
Op I did see another of your threads where you stated you were having nitrate issues correct? Maybe that’s adding to the problem.

 

[BobbyCline]

Type of response I expect from someone who has nothing to offer. Let it go. You've side tracked a post to try and discredit someone who helps more people in 1 day than you have for the duration of the time on the forum. Regardless of methods, you just seem to be a bad, jealous person.

If calling out people for plagiarism makes me a "bad, jealous" person so be it.

 

[62518161]

EVERYBODY needs to move on and get this post back on track.

 

[vetteguy53081]

To be fair the copy and pasted article did nothing to help op and honestly is just general information that usually won’t help anyone as it just offers generalized answers to general torch care. It doesn’t account for other issues that could be at play like shipping issues or bacterial infections. Op even stated it did nothing to help. You’d think someone whose such a recognizable member could offer more in depth analysis? I’m not trying to poke the issue but I’m just saying.
Op I did see another of your threads where you stated you were having nitrate issues correct? Maybe that’s adding to the problem.

Same will apply to you. MY JOB COMES FIRST and during the day i happen to be at work. i am still willing to take every spare moment I have and get info to someone in need.
I see you posted 6 lines in response to ME and not one tip to the OP . We had an emergency trip for work and I accepted but still shared what I could until I make it home. I got home about an hour ago and plan to respond to OP but will take care of HOME first.
This is not a shipping issue as acclimation would be the fault over shipping and where do you see bacteria/RTN, etc ?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hello I had this torch for about 3 months…at first it would open fully…but now it hardly opens…dose anyone know why? Par is about 100… just diped it with coral rx about 2 weeks to see if it was a pest nothing came off of it

ph 8.5
Dkh 8.4
Calcium 403
Mag 1290
Nitrate 8
Phosphate 0.08

Hi - I was away last night and sent you some care info.
Regarding your torch, Be it known that these can be moody and will challenge the most experienced aquarists. Of concern to me is your noted Phosphate level of .08.
These and euphyllia do best when po4 is under .04. Location plays an important roles as does water flow. Yours does not look to be in a bad location and without video, unsure what your flow rate is. For torch, Moderate is best in which the coral itself is just waving in the water and not bent over persay.
Lighting is often a challenge as many feel moderate light is sufficient but in essence for zooxanthellae production, they need Good, not strong lighting.
Always hard to tell in photos, why i bring these items up.
I still am pointing at po4 as one cause of looking unhappy although it does not look bad.

Have you changed or made changes to flow?
What test kits are you using?
What is your salinity, tank temperature and Nitrate level?
Are you using RODI water and what is TDS of water?

 

[Bribo12]

I did post a question about nitrates to op. I apologize for saying it the way I did but copy and pasting stuff isn’t helpful generally. So my questions regarding shipping and mentioning bacterial issues is wrong. Doesn’t seem like a parameter issue either.

I’ll leave it there before I get myself in more trouble. Sorry op.

 

[Fredrxn]

Hi - I was away last night and sent you some care info.
Regarding your torch, Be it known that these can be moody and will challenge the most experienced aquarists. Of concern to me is your noted Phosphate level of .08.
These and euphyllia do best when po4 is under .04. Location plays an important roles as does water flow. Yours does not look to be in a bad location and without video, unsure what your flow rate is. For torch, Moderate is best in which the coral itself is just waving in the water and not bent over persay.
Lighting is often a challenge as many feel moderate light is sufficient but in essence for zooxanthellae production, they need Good, not strong lighting.
Always hard to tell in photos, why i bring these items up.
I still am pointing at po4 as one cause of looking unhappy although it does not look bad.

Have you changed or made changes to flow?
What test kits are you using?
What is your salinity, tank temperature and Nitrate level?
Are you using RODI water and what is TDS of water?

Thanks for ur reply buddy I just got over byropsis I treated with flux…but the torch was not happy before treating with flux…did not mean to start a fight between everyone.I use Hanna checkers…nitrate is 8.0 with high range checker…temp 78…I have a ro buddy my rodi water has 0 tds..salinity 1.025…..I just turned offmy Nero 3 today I think I might have to much flow in the tank…I just upgrade my return pumps from 400 gph to 700 gph…I don’t dose anything to tank…maybe my alk mag calcium is not stable? I do weekly water changes of 15 gallons on a 65 gallon tank …I am debating on getting a apex trindet with dos pumps to get my mag calcium alk stable…do u think the apex is worth the investment on my tank?? Torch is in about 90 to 100 par…maybe I should increase the par on it?? Gonna leave the Nero off for a few days see how the torch responds….I have dual return outlets with random flow generators on them…..here a video that I just posted on YouTube of my flow with the Nero 3 on…a lot of people say my mag should be higher around 1300 to 1500 for lps but would this bother my zoas and acans mag is about 1300 right now..sorry for the long post wanted to get everything out there…I also don’t feed the corals would that be why? Agean thanks for all ur help

January 7, 2022

youtube.com

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks for ur reply buddy I just got over byropsis I treated with flux…but the torch was not happy before treating with flux…did not mean to start a fight between everyone.I use Hanna checkers…nitrate is 8.0 with high range checker…temp 78…I have a ro buddy my rodi water has 0 tds..salinity 1.025…..I just turned offmy Nero 3 today I think I might have to much flow in the tank…I just upgrade my return pumps from 400 gph to 700 gph…I don’t dose anything to tank…maybe my alk mag calcium is not stable? I do weekly water changes of 15 gallons on a 65 gallon tank …I am debating on getting a apex trindet with dos pumps to get my mag calcium alk stable…do u think the apex is worth the investment on my tank?? Torch is in about 90 to 100 par…maybe I should increase the par on it?? Gonna leave the Nero off for a few days see how the torch responds….I have dual return outlets with random flow generators on them…..here a video that I just posted on YouTube of my flow with the Nero 3 on…a lot of people say my mag should be higher around 1300 to 1500 for lps but would this bother my zoas and acans mag is about 1300 right now..sorry for the long post wanted to get everything out there…I also don’t feed the corals would that be why? Agean thanks for all ur help

January 7, 2022

youtube.com

Thanks for helpful reply.
The change in flow is significant to torch behavior and I would assure its moderate and not strong. You could also try a pulse mode to see if torch is receptive to it
RO Buddie is not effective as an RO unit not to say its causing issues. Unstable and changing Calcium WOULD be an issue and culprit.
Corals are animals and requires foods despite that light furnishes it energy. Brine shrimp and mysis shrimp are good foods to target feed it. Planktonic foods such are reef roids are not favorable for it and can raise no3 and po4 levels.

 

[Fredrxn]

Thanks for helpful reply.
The change in flow is significant to torch behavior and I would assure its moderate and not strong. You could also try a pulse mode to see if torch is receptive to it
RO Buddie is not effective as an RO unit not to say its causing issues. Unstable and changing Calcium WOULD be an issue and culprit.
Corals are animals and requires foods despite that light furnishes it energy. Brine shrimp and mysis shrimp are good foods to target feed it. Planktonic foods such are reef roids are not favorable for it and can raise no3 and po4 levels.

What do u think about apex system

 

[vetteguy53081]

What do u think about apex system

What about Apex system ?

 

[Fredrxn]

What about Apex system ?

Do u think it worth the asking price..for my tank to keep it stable

 

[vetteguy53081]

Do u think it worth the asking price..for my tank to keep it stable

If youre referring to Trident- I hear mixed results

 

[Fredrxn]

update on tank my corals look a lot happy with Nero 3 off and torch it’s opening more then it has in a long time…my hammer never looked happier

 

[Fredrxn]

Here a few pics

 

[johnreef]

move it to little higher flow area, see if it help it to opens up more, also take a close look to see if any of the pest worm that hiding around the heads. so more about flow and pest base on your water was pretty good to me. hope it getting better soon GL!

 

[ADAM]

Move to a little less light and slowly increase the flow. Judging by the pics the torch looks like it has been upset for a little while so slowly increasing the amount of flow would be better than moving it directly into a higher flow area and potentially compounding stress.

For the most part test kits are kind of a moot point… stability of any acceptable levels is far more important than one magic set of number. Some of the most beautiful SPS and LPS system I know of run .25-.30 PO4 and 20 NO3 but are rock solid with stability.
___________________

Plagiarism is plagiarism no matter if it’s helpful or not. Give credit where credit is due. *But I imagine it doesn’t matter to most people until someone takes credit for their work.

 

[Zoa_Fanatic]

If calling out people for plagiarism makes me a "bad, jealous" person so be it.

It’s not 5th grade anymore. You don’t need a bibliography with each response. I’d say a ton of posts on here don’t cite sources. And we all post things based on our knowledge or what we’ve read somewhere. I agree you should give credit where you can but this is like the 5th thread I’ve seen derailed by someone shouting cite sources today.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Do not move it. Like I said, water flow will have huge adverse effect on eupyllia in general. Same with CA levels.
Here are some of mine:

 

[BobbyCline]

It’s not 5th grade anymore. You don’t need a bibliography with each response. I’d say a ton of posts on here don’t cite sources. And we all post things based on our knowledge or what we’ve read somewhere. I agree you should give credit where you can but this is like the 5th thread I’ve seen derailed by someone shouting cite sources today.

This guy has taken information from another webpage that someone worked hard to create. He's done this numerous times and seems real indifferent about it.

All he has to do is say "I found this information on saltwateraquariumblog.com"

See how hard that is? Certainly not a bibliography.

You're right...it's not 5th grade anymore. Be an adult and give credit where credit is due.