Treatment?

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TK_KW

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Evening,

My Anthius, I finished running 14 days of cupermine, cause of ich. Transferred to sterile tank and started observation. After three days in sterile tank, I noticed colour on one side started fading (or what looked like it on a spot). So pulled and did fresh water dip, saw nothing. Now as of today. Body looks blotchy, and a single raised white spot. I also noticed after I did FW dip, fish was yawning more than I previously noticed. Didnt think much of it. But now I'm wondering if these things are all connected?

@HotRocks
@4FordFamily
@Frtdrmrose7
@ngoodermuth

What are your thoughts?

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20190502_175211.jpg
 
Yawning can be a symptom of gill parasites (flukes,etc) when you did the FW nothing came off at all? Loss of color, yawning, etc are all symptoms of flukes.
You could dose some Prazipro to be sure.
 
Yawning can be a symptom of gill parasites (flukes,etc) when you did the FW nothing came off at all? Loss of color, yawning, etc are all symptoms of flukes.
You could dose some Prazipro to be sure.

FW dip three days ago. Nothing came off. I could do another dip? I had run praziopro twice, in my system weeks before copper, because a wrasses I had, had flukes.

The single white raised spot, it's quite raised, which I thought was odd.

So if I do another FW dip and see nothing, then what? Still run praziopro?
 
FW dip three days ago. Nothing came off. I could do another dip? I had run praziopro twice, in my system weeks before copper, because a wrasses I had, had flukes.

The single white raised spot, it's quite raised, which I thought was odd.

So if I do another FW dip and see nothing, then what? Still run praziopro?

There are Prazi resistant flukes and if they were in the gills you may not have seen them. Do you have fenbendazole? Or you could run hypo at 1.011 for 5 days. The single raised spot does make me curious though.
 
Anthias are very commonly afflicted by Uronema. I think the blotchy looking side would have me dosing some metronidazole.

It could be early stage Brook as well hard to tell in pics. Uronema is the more likely of the two based on the fish we are talking about. Copper can suppress both Uronema and Brook, so that is possibly why you didn't see symptoms until post copper. At any rate, metro should cover both. Uronema can start as white fuzzy looking areas prior to the redness.

Use the max dose per instructions and follow through for 10 days.
 
I do not have fenbendazole.

I have prazi and GC. Here is a better photo showing how raised the spot is.

I do have metroplex @HotRocks

Would you still do FW dip?

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I do not have fenbendazole.

I have prazi and GC. Here is a better photo showing how raised the spot is.

I do have metroplex

Would you still do FW dip?

20190502_191859.jpg

^^ I would follow @HotRocks advice first. He is definitely the resident expert.
 
I do not have fenbendazole.

I have prazi and GC. Here is a better photo showing how raised the spot is.

I do have metroplex @HotRocks

Would you still do FW dip?

20190502_191859.jpg


20190502_191412.jpg
A FW dip will provide temporary relief by removing any attached parasites or flukes from the gills.

Also @Frtdrmrose7 I'm not saying flukes aren't a possibility. With the patchy discolored areas being apparent, that is why I lean Brook or Uronema.

I would go metro first for 10 days after a FW dip and see what happens from there.
 
A FW dip will provide temporary relief by removing any attached parasites or flukes from the gills.

Also @Frtdrmrose7 I'm not saying flukes aren't a possibility. With the patchy discolored areas being apparent, that is why I lean Brook or Uronema.

I would go metro first for 10 days after a FW dip and see what happens from there.

I know, I didn’t even consider Uronema as I’ve only seen it personally at the end stages. I’m still learning to detect it early on.
 
I know, I didn’t even consider Uronema as I’ve only seen it personally at the end stages. I’m still learning to detect it early on.
Sure, it can be tricky for sure. Also seeing these fish in person VS pics would make it much easier. :)
 
I would go GC. It covers all the bases because it includes metro.

The thing is if you have already treated with prazi you will likely need to go with fenbendazole or hypo to get rid of the flukes.
 
Where can I get fenbendazole? And what is best? Should I still run GC or screw it and just go hypo?

What is the safe process to go hypo?
 
Where can I get fenbendazole? And what is best? Should I still run GC or screw it and just go hypo?

What is the safe process to go hypo?

You can get Thomas Labs fenbendazole on Amazon. Hypo is the safest but you have to maintain a hypo state and always watch your PH levels. Fenbendazole is gentle on fish and is usually one and done (12 hour bath). Alternatively Prazi and GC are pretty gentle also. I’ve had Prazi resistant flukes and fenbendazole worked great for me.
 
You can get Thomas Labs fenbendazole on Amazon. Hypo is the safest but you have to maintain a hypo state and always watch your PH levels. Fenbendazole is gentle on fish and is usually one and done (12 hour bath). Alternatively Prazi and GC are pretty gentle also. I’ve had Prazi resistant flukes and fenbendazole worked great for me.

@andrewkw
@JoshH

Any idea where I can get fenbendazole in country?

If I cant get it. Hypo for 5 days? And how often do I check ph? If it fluctuates what do I use to buffer it?
 
@andrewkw
@JoshH

Any idea where I can get fenbendazole in country?

If I cant get it. Hypo for 5 days? And how often do I check ph? If it fluctuates what do I use to buffer it?

In Canada I don’t have any ideas for you. Yes 5 days at 1.011 will kill juvenile and adult flukes and prevent any eggs from hatching. You can buffer PH with baking soda. The info below I copied and pasted from the. Internet.
I’ve done it before and just mixed a teaspoon at a time with SW and added very small amounts and tested frequently to figure out how much to use.


Spread baking soda (594 grams or about 2 ¼ cups) on a baking tray and heat in an ordinary oven at 300°F for one hour to drive off water and carbon dioxide. Overheating is not a problem, either with higher temperatures or longer times. Dissolve the residual solid in enough water to make 1 gallon total. This dissolution may require a fair amount of mixing. Warming it speeds dissolution. This solution will contain about 1,900 meq/L of alkalinity (5,300 dKH). I prefer to use baked baking soda rather than washing soda in this recipe as baking soda from a grocery store is always food grade, while washing soda may not have the same purity requirements. Arm & Hammer brand is a fine choice. Be sure to NOT use baking powder. Baking powder is a different material that often has phosphate as a main ingredient.
From:
 
@andrewkw
@JoshH

Any idea where I can get fenbendazole in country?

If I cant get it. Hypo for 5 days? And how often do I check ph? If it fluctuates what do I use to buffer it?

I would try smaller pet stores that may not realize they should not be selling this (or care they get caught).
 

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