Triton or zeovit

[justingraham]

Hey i am thinking of starting either triton or veovit. In your guys opinion what do you think is the best method and why?
Thanks in advance
Justin

 

[Matze]

Good morning Justin,

it's rather hard to say which method is the best, because both are proven to work well.

I can tell you though why I went with Triton for my 225g tank.

Triton gives me the full control over all my chemical parameters in the system. With their ICP tests I always know exactly where Im at.
So dosing is stupidly simple and safe to do

Triton is not just some additives one gives into the tank, but a whole system of aquarium filtration. I love the concept of algae in the fuge providing a spot for pods to grow and wander to the display later on. Also those algae do help to get nutrients down amazingly good.

Thus beeing said. I never ran a tank with that much growth and nice coloration.
My fish tank buddy recently switched to Triton after he saw that it work for me.

So I'm definetely a fan boy now, but I would go Triton for any tank I'm setting up ever

Matze

 

[reefwiser]

They are two different styles of Reef Keeping.
Triton relies on maintaining the elements in our water at Natural Sea levels. You send in a water sample and then dose based on what elements need to be raised or lowered in your aquarium water. You do no water changes and rely on algae and a skimmer to remove waste.

Zeovit uses dosing of elements to promote coral coloration. A Zeolite stones to keep the nutrients in your aquarium to Ultra Low nutrient levels.

Both methods work you must follow the method for it to work. Which is the part where many hobbyist fall down.

 

[justingraham]

Thanks both of u guys. I will be upgrading to a 180 gallon soon. I read a lot about triton but it still seems like I'm at the beginning. It seems like every article is the same. I really have not read that much into zeovit. But I do know both systems look great. So I guess another question is one easier then the other on a larger tank? Or cheaper? I will have all the room in the world as in I will have a fish room so my plan was a 55 gallon fuge if I were to go with the triton method. I'm just not sure of it. But since ur doing it @Matze do u mind if I pick ur brain? So when u sent in ur baseline test how long did u wait to send in ur second one? After ur first test how did u know what to dose if u did not know how many elements u were technically using up on a given day? Third and this seems like one I can never get an answer on what are the prices for everything?
Thanks again
Justin
And good morning to u as well lucky me I'm off to a frag expo with the future wife

 

[ksfulk]

The first triton test is so you know where your numbers are "before" you start with additives. This lets you know where heavy metals might be in your system, if you are lacking something or if perhaps you have some discrepency between your test kit readings and what the ICP test states. You also want to make sure that your Alkalinity is as close to 8.0dKH as it can be PRIOR to starting dosing of Triton Elementz.

For Triton Elementz - it is recommended that starting dose is 10ml of each element (1, 2, 3a & 3b) per 100l of tank water per day. You should perform Alkalinity testing EVERY DAY for the first couple of weeks. This is so you can alter your dosing (the amount of elementz added per day) to maintain an Alkalinity of 8.0dKH. As you add more corals, or they grow larger, then you will generally see an increase in the uptake of Alkalinity (meaning that the value will start to drop below 8.0dKH even at the same dosing amount as you did the previous day) and you will have to increase your dosage.

I wait a month before sending out my second test. This gives my system time to stabilize using the Elementz, but close enough that I recall anything that might have happened between my 1st test and my 2nd test (new equipment, dropping something metallic in the tank, etc etc etc). Once you have your second set of results, you can adjust dosing as needed. Keep things stable, and in another month send out another test. Once you have three sets of results, you can start to identify trends. Is my Aluminum rising? Do I need to dose Iodine? etc etc etc...

From there its about testing frequently (I kept testing Alk daily - but with the Hannah checker it takes about 2 minutes) - maybe once a week or so - and keeping up with the demand that your corals and livestock will want for dosing.

As for cost - Triton Elementz runs about $70 for 10l worth of dosing solution. For my 300 gallon system, that would last about 3 months. Zeovit has some inherent costs as well (Reactor, zeolite media, bacteria, bacteria food, and other supplements), but I think in the end its likely a wash. For information on the zeovit system, I would suggest watching the bulk reef supply 52 weeks of reefing series, as they are using the zeovit system on that tank, and go into detail about their system and what and why they dose. Its pretty informative about that system.

And, as always, feel free to ask on the forums here - there's a wealthy of experience in both of these methods, and Im sure more people will chime in with their experiences.

Good luck!

 

[Matze]

Hi Justin,

I´m more than happy to help where I can =)

You raised the question of costs. Well I can tell you, that I calculated how much Zeovit would be to get started for my 225g.
It was conciderably more than Triton, but that beeing said. When you start dosing more than the base elementz, there is no real difference in price.
My main thought why I didn´t end up using Zeovit was because I don´t like the idea to introduce copper into my system to essentially pale my corals.

Testing: I did one test to get my starting numbers, then worked them as recommended by Triton. One month later I sent in the second test, to see if I did do well. After that I did test every 8 weeks. But to be honest, for my system testing ones every 12 weeks would be totally fine, because I don´t see any changes over the 8 week course.

Well to explain how to dose, takes a longer write up, but I try to make it as short as I can.
You start your tank with any brand of salt ( even though I highly recommend TropicMarin Pro Reef).
After that you need to get your KH level around 8dkh, that´s the starting point. Now you send in your first sample.
Chances are that every element is around the point where it should be. So you start dosing the base elemenz. They take care of
your Ca,Mg,KH and bring in a variety of elements that get taken from the corals. After a month you send in the second test and maybe the results
tell you, that Iodine for example is a tad low. So they give you a recommendation on how much Iodine you have to add, to get the level you want it to be. It´s your choice then to buy Iodine of Triton and have the exact amount to put in, or to get it somewhere else and mix it up yourself.

But after 6 months in, I can tell you I still don´t need any other additives than the base elementz. They have everything in that 4 solutions, so that your base consumption is taken care of.

The price, well I can´t tell you what the prices in the US are. But I can give you a rough calculation of what I spent monthly
over here in Germany.

Triton Base Elementz: 31€
Triton Carbon: 12€
GFO/Aluminium based adsorber 35€
Testing 35€

Total for 225g: 113€ = 126$

So my guess would be for what you are planning it will be under 100$

Hope that helps =)

Matze

 

[justingraham]

Well thank u guys
U have made a lot more things clear for me.
I spoke to someone using triton today at the frag expo so I picked his brain a little bit as well.
So I too have a Hannah checker for dkh so that will now come in handy.
I want to be at 8 or as close as I can be to 8 on that test then send in a sample. This is what I'm guessing?

Now how do u guys have ur sump set up? Do u stay true to the triton method?

Also do u dose these elements every day with a dosser ?

Thanks again
Justin

 

[d2mini]

Check out the Triton USA sponsor forum.
Lots of good threads going in there that should answer your questions.

 

[Bob Escher]

Hi Justin,

I´m more than happy to help where I can =)

You raised the question of costs. Well I can tell you, that I calculated how much Zeovit would be to get started for my 225g.
It was conciderably more than Triton, but that beeing said. When you start dosing more than the base elementz, there is no real difference in price.
My main thought why I didn´t end up using Zeovit was because I don´t like the idea to introduce copper into my system to essentially pale my corals.

Testing: I did one test to get my starting numbers, then worked them as recommended by Triton. One month later I sent in the second test, to see if I did do well. After that I did test every 8 weeks. But to be honest, for my system testing ones every 12 weeks would be totally fine, because I don´t see any changes over the 8 week course.

Well to explain how to dose, takes a longer write up, but I try to make it as short as I can.
You start your tank with any brand of salt ( even though I highly recommend TropicMarin Pro Reef).
After that you need to get your KH level around 8dkh, that´s the starting point. Now you send in your first sample.
Chances are that every element is around the point where it should be. So you start dosing the base elemenz. They take care of
your Ca,Mg,KH and bring in a variety of elements that get taken from the corals. After a month you send in the second test and maybe the results
tell you, that Iodine for example is a tad low. So they give you a recommendation on how much Iodine you have to add, to get the level you want it to be. It´s your choice then to buy Iodine of Triton and have the exact amount to put in, or to get it somewhere else and mix it up yourself.

But after 6 months in, I can tell you I still don´t need any other additives than the base elementz. They have everything in that 4 solutions, so that your base consumption is taken care of.

The price, well I can´t tell you what the prices in the US are. But I can give you a rough calculation of what I spent monthly
over here in Germany.

Triton Base Elementz: 31€
Triton Carbon: 12€
GFO/Aluminium based adsorber 35€
Testing 35€

Total for 225g: 113€ = 126$

So my guess would be for what you are planning it will be under 100$

Hope that helps =)

Matze

Thank you Matze
For the info I've been waiting for a answer to the cost and you answer it basically not the test itself of course but what you will need

Welcome to REEF TO REEF and I miss your country spent 6 years in Wiesbaden. loved the zrhine valley particularly Freilichtbühne Loreleye, many many a weekend up there

 

[justingraham]

Check out the Triton USA sponsor forum.
Lots of good threads going in there that should answer your questions.

I tried to read thru it.
I just want the cold cut answer from someone doing it.
This is how I set it up.
this is what I do every day.
This is when I test and so on and so fourth.
Much like @Matze did for me.
I read that thread and everyone is saying the same thing just in their way of saying it.
But I will try again where is it at can u link it here for me Maby I was reading the wrong one
Thanks everyone for posting
Justin

 

[d2mini]

I tried to read thru it.

No one particular thread. I just meant browse them all here...
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/triton-us.739/

You can see my build thread (link in my sig).
All I do on a daily basis for Triton is let the doser dose the base elements and test Alk to make sure I don't need to make an adjustment. Other stuff I'll test once a week or longer.

 

[justingraham]

No one particular thread. I just meant browse them all here...
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/triton-us.739/

You can see my build thread (link in my sig).
All I do on a daily basis for Triton is let the doser dose the base elements and test Alk to make sure I don't need to make an adjustment. Other stuff I'll test once a week or longer.

I saw ur algea yesterday that's crazy how fast it grew for u.
Would u recomend the triton?

 

[Mallard]

I'd also take a look at AquaForest as lots of people are having success. Worth a loook

 

[justingraham]

@Mallard please explain

 

[justingraham]

As I'm at a party right now and can't look it up

 

[zoomonster]

I'm kinda fond of a hybrid method for a heavy bio load system. A bio pellet reactor (catch is to not over do it) to control nitrate and phosphate and I still run a refugium with chaeto. That eliminates costly consumables like zeolites and GFO. Along with that parts of the aquaforest system including amino's, vitamins and their equivalent of coral snow and I'm using pro bio s and np pro until I get the bio pellet reactor installed and colonized with bacteria. As far as coral food still using Pohl's and have not used the AF version that has copper sulphate in it. I don't own a doser (never did)but use a kalkstirrer attached to ATO and a calcium reactor to provide alk, calcium, magnesium, strontium and other trace. Aside from working well it eliminates dosing and many consumables. About all I need is CO2 about every 6 months, occasional top off for aragonite media, magnesium media, bio pellets and of course the aquaforest stuff I use (could just as well be KZ). The system I use is a little more costly for startup but it pays for itself in the long run. I still have some coral colors stuff around and its good for things like iron when my chaeto starts looking a little rough. I like the Triton test but not at $50 a pop. Middlemen and retailers jack the price up. I heard Unique say at reefapalooza they sell wholesale at $35 which probably means Triton is really only charging about $20-30 for the test kit and results.

Lots of good systems to be had just have to chose one that meets your needs. Personally I would take a look at the AF system. At least for now its in the forefront and dwarfing Triton, KZ (and has pretty much the same products as KZ) and its supposed to be more economical. Not so sure on that last part though. For my part I'd rather spend the money on fish and sticks vs. an endless array of consumables, dosers and other reactors like GFO.

 

[justingraham]

@zoomonster at the frag expo I was at today they were selling triton test kits for 30 so yes everything is marked up.
As I guess it is with everything in this hobby there are different ways to get from A to B. It's just what way works for u. I will have to look into this aqua forest and see what will work for me.
I'm also on the train of not wanting dosing valves or anything to mechanical as I always seem to read the bad stuff that happens when they fail. They are machines around water and they are bound to fail but it always seems to fail at the worst time. I trust myself so at least if I mess up I can be the only one to be blamed.
Thanks again if everyone
I'm open to Any and all ideas so keep them coming I just want the best for my fish and for my corals
Justin

 

[justingraham]

@Mallard thanks for that info.
I like that way it seems simple and was explained easily for me so thank u for that.

 

[Mallard]

@justingraham Just getting back myself. I would check out the AquaForest sponsor forum and their FB group. I would also take some time to read their guide on getting started. I haven't run zeo, but I've used the Fauna Marin balling lite method before. AF seems to have really simplified the process for their products. You can run their bacteria driven system similar to zeo, or you can tweak it to match your goals. When I was using the FM balling lite method, I had to head to the European forums as the support was quite lacking here in the US. The opposite is true of AF and is why I'll be using it on my next system. Making the process simple and lots of support is why I would recommend it. You'll want to research it just like any other method, but it should be in the discussion of Zeo vs Triton vs FM balling vs Red Sea vs the many others available. It all comes down to your goals, your budget, your tank, and husbandry.

http://aquaforest.eu/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Aquaforest_Products-Guide_EN_RGB.pdf
http://aquaforest.eu/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Aquaforest_katalog_EN_RGB_mobile.pdf

 

[Matze]

Well thank u guys
U have made a lot more things clear for me.
I spoke to someone using triton today at the frag expo so I picked his brain a little bit as well.
So I too have a Hannah checker for dkh so that will now come in handy.
I want to be at 8 or as close as I can be to 8 on that test then send in a sample. This is what I'm guessing?

Now how do u guys have ur sump set up? Do u stay true to the triton method?

Also do u dose these elements every day with a dosser ?

Thanks again
Justin

Good morning Justin,
right you want your KH around 8dkh.
That way there is a larger safety zone for dosing mistakes in both directions.

The Sump setup is very basic. Water comes down from the display and goes to the refugium. After that it needs to go through the skimmer and the Carbon/GFO. After that it gets pumped back to the display.

Yes dosing every day is important to get constant results without parameter swings!
I like dosing manually but a dosing pump works even better.

Greetings
Matze

Thank you Matze
For the info I've been waiting for a answer to the cost and you answer it basically not the test itself of course but what you will need

Welcome to REEF TO REEF and I miss your country spent 6 years in Wiesbaden. loved the zrhine valley particularly Freilichtbühne Loreleye, many many a weekend up there

Good morning Bob and thank you very much
So cool, how many of you guys actually were living over here. Yeah Rhynevalley is beautiful and some of the best wine I had was made there

No Problem, I like to share my experiences with Triton. You know this method is already around for many years over here, but there was little to no information about how it actually works. So I was hesitant for year and that is a shame. I wish I did knew about the method from my early tries on. So many animals would have been saved and not been testing objects

Cheers
Matze