Triton or zeovit

Well I'm just lost when comparing the AF method against the triton method to me it seems like the same thing except triton u don't do water changes and send samples in. But both u dose elements to make it work that's where I'm confused I've tried reading up on it but it still seems the same to me.
 
Well I'm just lost when comparing the AF method against the triton method to me it seems like the same thing except triton u don't do water changes and send samples in. But both u dose elements to make it work that's where I'm confused I've tried reading up on it but it still seems the same to me.

Do you have room for a LARGE area of algae?

Triton testing is useful for ALL methods.
 
Fish room so yes my plan was a 55 gal refuge I'll have about a 300 gall system
 
Now would I want all my water draining from my tank to go thru the fuge? Even if I expect to go about 10x15 turn over?
 
Well I'm just lost when comparing the AF method against the triton method to me it seems like the same thing except triton u don't do water changes and send samples in. But both u dose elements to make it work that's where I'm confused I've tried reading up on it but it still seems the same to me.
I don't know anything about AF but do they use a large algae bed with high flow and high powered full spectrum lighting as the basis of the whole system? I don't see anything like that in their guide.
Looks like they rely on setting up the tank with a bunch of bacterias and offer bottles of liquid vitamins, on top of the main dosing liquids, and standard water changes.

I did buy a bottle of AF garlic oil and one of the bacteria supplements. I also use Zeovit Sponge Power.
 
While I can't speak specifically to Triton, but there are others here who can. The way I look at AF vs Triton and a few other methods are the style of tank you want to run. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but Triton is a system that keeps the water as close to NSW as possible, adding only what your system consumes as if it were in the ocean. AF, on the other hand, allows you to choose a few different ways to approach supplementing. The AF system is based on the balling lite method (there is a balling method as well), which maintains main and trace elements through dosing alk, cal and mag. These solutions have various additional trace elements which your corals are consuming. In addition, you can run their bacterial based system which is going to be closer to Zeovit than Triton. You'll do liquid dosing of carbon and bacteria that will drive the system to a ULNS state, you can customize the additives based on the desired colors and/or other goals (i.e. do you like pastel colors that you get from zeo). You will need to do a 10% or so water change per week, as these various elements do add salt to the tank. Otherwise, your salinity will creep upwards. Since Triton is keeping water near NSW, there isn't a need unless something is out of whack.

So it comes down to what you believe in for reef keeping, what are your goals, etc. Triton is an algae-based system while the full blown AF system is bacterial based. Both have great examples of tanks that thrive using their systems. This is one of those things you'll want to read up on Triton, AF and really a bunch of other systems out there to figure out what is going to be best for you. This is all part of the fun but also one of the challenging aspects of reef keeping, enjoy the research and know that you can always switch later if needed. There are plenty of tanks switching to AF from Zeo and other methods, I'm sure there are people switching from AF to Triton or other methods.
 
@Mallard thanks for that last post.
Cleared it up for me.
But do u see the similarities? Both are trying to be as close to nsw as possible. In fact AF salt mix is supposedly the closest to nsw from what I read. In both systems u are adding elements in to it in a 3 part process. But from what u just wrote u are saying that AF ur adding certain elements that have salt in them that raises the salinity so that's why the 10 percent water change is needed where as what u dose in triton is just the elements that are consumed. Is that what the diffrence tech is? Just diffent elements? Also with the AF method doesn't it strip the nitrates and phosphates? Where triton u would want some of both? Also triton Refugium where AF it's not needed because u are controlling ur nitrates and phosphates by chemicals?
Thanks again everyone for all of ur input
Justin
 
Hey Justin, it comes down to the method in which we remove the nutrients from the system. Triton as I'm aware, uses natural means to consume the nutrients (your algae bed) while AF bacterial system uses carbon, zeolites, and a phosphate remover. In addition, if you go with the full bacterial system, you'll be liquid dosing carbon (similar to vodka, vinegar, or even biopellets which are solid) to feed the bacteria you're adding to the system. This is how you get the to a ULNS. If you go with the straight balling lite method from AF, you'll be using your skimmer or other means to remove nutrients.

As far as the AF salt mixes, you have to remember that AF has various methods you can follow. The regular reef salt is going to be used for a more traditional balling lite method. This differs slightly from the long-standing method of two part dosing by adding a third for magnesium. This is something introduced in Europe many years ago. If I had to guess, but someone who uses Triton can better explain this, is that the regular balling lite method is similar to Triton. The difference is that Triton tests the water to tell you EXACTLY what you should be adding back into the system. Balling lite, on the other hand, assumes that for every bit of alk, cal, or mag consumed by your system, it's using an equal part of the other trace elements. If your alk consumption has increased, that means it should be using an equal amount more of the trace elements. However, the Triton test can be used with any system and I know personally that I'll be sending test kits to Triton myself while on AF. It's the first of it's kind to tell you everything in your water.

If you move to the AF probiotic salt, you're getting the same salt, but they have added aminos and bacteria directly to the salt. You'll be replenishing these elements through water changes and dosing. This is where you'll be dosing bacteria and liquid carbon to the system, along with chemical filtration (carbon, zeolites, and phosphate remover). The mixture of bacteria and chemical filtration is at the heart of the AF bacteria-based system. I've seen a number of people switch from the regular reef salt to the probiotic, so this might be something to consider if you're unsure today.

As far as your goals are concerned, it sounds like you want a proven system with minimal amounts of technology to drive it. I think you'll be able to do that with any of the systems if you're going to reliably dose manually. The reason most people add additional technology is because we are kinda lazy.... and/or it's a cool toy to use. Someone said it earlier, it's two very different ways to reefing, but both have successful tanks running them. I might be rambling a bit but this is what I've read as I'm preparing my system. You've got some great resources in here who have used Triton and there are a number of AF users actively using the system, hopefully they can chime in and give you more hands out experience, guidance, and advice.

edit: if you use the regular AF salt, you do not have to use the balling method. It's a great product regardless. You could use the probiotic, but it's probably a waste of money if you're not doing the full bacteria driven system.
 
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Hi,
I know the question is Triton or Zeovit, however I suggest looking into Aquaforest as well..
I don't have any experience with Triton, however I can tell you I tried Zeovit for a little over a year and for most part, everything was good... corals were growing like weeds, superb colors and polyp extension then out of the blue i lost all my sps in a matter of a few weeks/months... I since shut down this tank and started a new one with AF products and I'm pretty impressed... Their salt is awesome, it mixes perfectly without leaving anything behind and it can be mixed and used right away (does not need 24 hours of mixing like other salts)... Also their products have free shipping to the door, which is hard to beat considering the weight of the salt, I really like this.

So far I am running biopellets in a Avast spyglass reactor with AF NP Pro and AF Pro Bio S. This is on a 93g tank +30g sump and I currently dose 4 drops of each- these aditives will last a long time. If I can keep PO4 and NO3 down I will consider running more AF products.
 
Don't be afraid to experiment. If you have the space for the refugium I would try triton first and see how it goes. Setup-cost wise you'll have to buy the refugium and light. Which really can't hurt to have a spare tank or light lying around in the future if it doesn't work out. I think dosing pumps are required by all of the proposed systems? Note: A 55 gallon tank which is tall and narrow may not be the best for a refugium (but again you can just try it).

This was one of the best posts I've seen about triton recently https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-triton-experiences-so-far.261180/#post-3105826.

One side of triton that I was completely unaware of was the concept that the algae take up neutrients out of the water, converts it to amino acids, then die and release the amino acids to feed the corals. They suggest never trimming or removing your macro, literally just let it sit. It also promots a place for copepods and amphipods to grow which also can feed corals and livestock.

It was interesting to me that both Triton and Zeovit specifically recommend no UV filtering. (Money and time saved!)

Also when I was doing research early on I thought the whole concept of water changes seemed odd. You don't know what's happening in your tank so the only option is to swap out 10% of the water a week, or some variation of that. Which means if something bad was in the tank at a concentration of 1, it's now at 0.9 and is back at 1 in a week? Then I came across triton which is a legit company telling you not to change your water, if it didn't work for most then the company would fail. The cost and time savings there are significant and sold me on it. Now I only have to set up a tank... lol.

Personally I'm going to be starting off with water changes, standard 2 part + mag dosing, and trace element supplementation from somewhere (maybe redsea) and go from there. Maybe 6 months to a year in I'll start the actual triton base elementz and see what the response is. Good = continue, neutral or bad = stop. And of course if I'm having trouble at any time in the first 6 months or 1 year I could try the actual triton elements at any time to see if it fixes the problems. This is following the assumption that the triton base elementz are actually more expensive than home made or BRS 2 part + mag + trace element supplementation, which seems likely to me.
 
My main thought why I didn´t end up using Zeovit was because I don´t like the idea to introduce copper into my system to essentially pale my corals.


Hope that helps =)

Matze

Zeospur is not necessary or part of the core Zeovit system.

What other KZ Zeo product has copper in it?
 
Zeospur is not necessary or part of the core Zeovit system.

What other KZ Zeo product has copper in it?

Don't know mate, I just know from reading and talking to one of our aquarium club members that Zeo does include doses of copper. I never bothered were exactly the copper is used in.
I just don't like the thought of poisening my corals to make them nice looking, so Zeo was out of question for me.

@justin:

Well the difference is quite easy.
Triton is a fixed and closed system of keeping an aquarium. Do it like they tell you to do, or you don't do Triton.
With all the other systems you got choices, having a refugium or non, going with carbon or gfo all the time or not, adding biopellets or what ever.
Those things are free for you to try out, bit with Triton you got a whole system of running your aquarium that you can not or at least should not change.
 
Don't know mate, I just know from reading and talking to one of our aquarium club members that Zeo does include doses of copper. I never bothered were exactly the copper is used in.
I just don't like the thought of poisening my corals to make them nice looking, so Zeo was out of question for me.

From what I've read it's only in Zeospur which is the additive that restricts or reduces zooxanthellae causing the washed/pale/pastel look. Just don't use Zeospur. KZ has quite a few additives and I wouldn't expect anyone to use them all and as I mentioned Zeospur isn't part of the core ZEOvit system.

Just looking to educate myself in the event I missed something, and keep the information accurate.
Thanks for the reply.
 
One additional thing I would add. There isn't a black and white answer here. You're going to have to read and research to understand the maintenance of any system. If you don't, you're already setting yourself up for failure. Experiment and try things out. Every system is going to be different and try to accomplish their goals in different ways. It's kind of like a z06 Vette vs a Porsche. Personally, I'd take the Porsche every day, but there are going to be people that love the Vette. Both are sexy, fast and put that huge smile on your face. But the philosophies are very different in execution. It's not going to be much different in reefing. Rimless vs Eurobrace vs rimmed with canopy vs open top, etc etc etc. You'll be the one to implement it, so find the one that fits your schedule. If you try to run a system that you aren't prepared for in time, money, equipment, or any combination and you're setting yourself up for failure. Experiment and have fun, but let us know what you choose and how everything goes.
 
I'm a Porche guy. 911. (that's not me in the car)

2017-Porsche-911-Carrera-S-and-Georg-Kacher-01.jpg
 
Zeovit , Triton,Aqua Forest,Fauna Marin Ultralith/Zeolite and DSR and they various advanced methods.
They all will work but they need to be followed based on how the corals react in each reef.
Most new hobbyist should learn and run a basic Berlin system before trying a more advanced method.
While some new hobbyist could I wouldn't recommend it.
 
Here's a dumb question. So you deal with paying for water testing, hassling with shipping samples, figure out what trace elements are lacking, buy trace elements, extra kh testing, all while trying to keep nutrient levels low so you don't have to do water changes. .. So isn't it easier to siphon out a 10% weekly water change, and buy quality salt and be done? And your water change could even be done via dosing pump. So convince me why this is better.
 
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IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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