TTM or copper for ich?

[User]

So should I not run anything in the hob on the first tank? Or you’re saying I need to go out and buy another 10g tank and another whole hob setup as well as the one I just bought and haven’t used yet? At that rate I’m
Better off just doing ttm and just using 2 sets of heaters and 2 air stones and different buckets.

Yes. Two sets of equipment,

You could always do 30 days in copper with 1 set up and risk toxicity induced appetite suppression and bacterial infection...

Your choice.

But how much will your fish cost to replace (and then you still have to get another set up to do the second attempt properly ) compared to ~$50 for another set up?


If you want to do ttm, don’t use buckets. Get a coupe of 16 ish gallon totes so they have some swimming room .pp grade 5, food grade so they are safe

 

[User]

No reason to bleach. just let the bucket, airline, air stone and heater dry for at least 24 hours. Also make sure that every time you transfer, the bucket is filled with new saltwater. This means you need two of everything except the air pump. Since the fish is in the new setup for 2-3 days anyways, this isn't a problem. The part I would worry about the most is if the air stone was completely dry or not. Since they are cheap, I would get a few and let them dry longer between use. I think this method is much better than copper. It is best to feed the fish the day before transfer. This lets them eat and poop...and are then moved into fresh water the next day keeping high water quality.

Buy a 24 pack of airstones for $8 and toss them out. They never really get dry inside unless you bake them

 

[Be102]

Buy a 24 pack of airstones for $8 and toss them out. They never really get dry inside unless you bake them

Sounds silly but do I need to replace the tubing if it doesn’t get wet?

 

[lapin]

I use dollar a gallon tanks from Petco. I made a short divider at one end. Maybe 2" tall. I can put sand in it in case I have a sand sleeping wrasse in QT.

 

[lapin]

The air stone tubing will get wet if the stone is in the water. The stuff is like 5.00 for 10 feet. Easier than trying to be sure its dry

 

[User]

How likely is contamination? Can I like put my buckets outside if I was to ttm when not in use to help dry and kill anything left over? They surely can’t really survive after a bleach bath or am I underestimating them?

A desk fan pointed inside would do a better job, and will decrease the drying time. Still wouldn’t dry fir less than 12 hours though.

And yes- bleach bath done sloppy can leave living cysts. Think under edges of silicone, around areas of trim where splash back from filter hit.

You actually don’t need bleach- hot water will clean it, it’s the drying stage that kills it too

 

[Be102]

So how do I go about planning a schedule on when to switch them? As long as it’s under 72 hours and I do it for a total of 12 days? So like every 3 days at the same time?

 

[User]

Sounds silly but do I need to replace the tubing if it doesn’t get wet?

I buy a 25ft roll alongside the stones and use 9-12” each time. Toss after the transfer

 

[Smo]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/

 

[4FordFamily]

Tank transfer method has not worked well for me in the past. It’s a lot of work, it doesn’t treat velvet, and ammonia can be a plaguing issue which is deadly.

Copper power + Hanna copper checker + BioSpira is a winning combination.

Here’s what we do religiously (@HotRocks and I).

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/

To our amazement,fish, even sensitive wrasse, do better being introduced to 1 PPM copper power than they did slow increases after a few days of observation.

 

[User]

Tank transfer method has not worked well for me in the past. It’s a lot of work, it doesn’t treat velvet, and ammonia can be a plaguing issue which is deadly.

Copper power + Hanna copper checker + BioSpira is a winning combination.

Here’s what we do religiously (@HotRocks and I).

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/

To our amazement,fish, even sensitive wrasse, do better being introduced to 1 PPM copper power than they did slow increases after a few days of observation.

Count me as #3 that do this.

In at 1.0 ppm, hanna checker and preload filter floss with biospira

 

[Radman73]

I was intimidated by copper until I got the Hanna checker. Easy now. Just finished a tang at 14 days, a dip into a 5 gal bucket to rinse off as much copper laced water as possible and into my 60gal long term observation tank. Smaller tanks will obviously suffice after the 14 day copper treatment. I use Copper Power for the copper. Tang ate great throughout treatment.

 

[User]

I was intimidated by copper until I got the Hanna checker. Easy now. Just finished a tang at 14 days, a dip into a 5 gal bucket to rinse off as much copper laced water as possible and into my 60gal long term observation tank. Smaller tanks will obviously suffice after the 14 day copper treatment. I use Copper Power for the copper. Tang ate great throughout treatment.

Good stuff

 

[Radman73]

Good stuff

The Hanna checker is a game changer IMO. I couldn't read the API copper test kit to save my life. I mainly relied on knowing exactly how much water was in the QT and just dosing correctly. The Hanna checker is incredibly easy to use. Probably not worth the expense if you're only going to add 2-3 more fish in the next year or something. But, if you're upgrading or stills stocking a new tank it's worth every penny.

I've done TTM too, and since I work from home it isn't that difficult. But I almost killed my orange back, and possibly my clowns too, because I apparently didn't rinse the bleach out of one of the tanks well enough. After that I went to 3 tanks for TTM to give a longer period for everything to dry. Now it's even easier to just do copper so unless it's a fish that's known to be sensitive to copper that's what I'll use.

 

[User]

Hanna checker ~$50...

‘Last couple of fish’ x 2 if they die in copper QT then you buy the checker anyway to guarantee future success >$50...


I’d consider a hanna checker essential for any fish, even a $15 blenny... it’s not the $, it’s also about quality of life fir the fish.

It’s as essential as the right meds and focused mindset, in my opinion

 

[4FordFamily]

Hanna checker ~$50...

‘Last couple of fish’ x 2 if they die in copper QT then you buy the checker anyway to guarantee future success >$50...


I’d consider a hanna checker essential for any fish, even a $15 blenny... it’s not the $, it’s also about quality of life fir the fish.

It’s as essential as the right meds and focused mindset, in my opinion

I agree, for many one fish that died from improper copper dosing (very high risk if you don't have a checker, particularly if you use CopperSafe) you paid for it anyway. Just my .02

 

[Radman73]

Hanna checker ~$50...

‘Last couple of fish’ x 2 if they die in copper QT then you buy the checker anyway to guarantee future success >$50...


I’d consider a hanna checker essential for any fish, even a $15 blenny... it’s not the $, it’s also about quality of life fir the fish.

It’s as essential as the right meds and focused mindset, in my opinion

It depends. If you already have everything needed for TTM, the checker may not make as much sense for someone on a budget. Thankfully I have a supportive spouse who doesn't blink when I spend $75 to try and keep a $10 engineer goby alive lol! The checker doesn't guarantee a successful QT, it just guarantees that you can keep copper above the min therapeutic level. I don't want anyone to get the impression that the Hanna checker is the magic bullet. It sure helps though. Takes the guesswork completely out of the copper equation and allows us to maintain a lower level of copper because we know what the level is as opposed to aiming high to make sure we're above the minimum. Better for the fish for sure.

 

[4FordFamily]

It depends. If you already have everything needed for TTM, the checker may not make as much sense for someone on a budget. Thankfully I have a supportive spouse who doesn't blink when I spend $75 to try and keep a $10 engineer goby alive lol! The checker doesn't guarantee a successful QT, it just guarantees that you can keep copper above the min therapeutic level. I don't want anyone to get the impression that the Hanna checker is the magic bullet. It sure helps though. Takes the guesswork completely out of the copper equation and allows us to maintain a lower level of copper because we know what the level is as opposed to aiming high to make sure we're above the minimum. Better for the fish for sure.

The issue is that velvet is just as common as ich these days, and TTM does not treat for velvet. I wouldn't use TTM, the only alternate I would personally consider is Chloroquine Phosphate but it can be difficult to source, pure CP requires a vet's script.

 

[User]

The issue is that velvet is just as common as ich these days, and TTM does not treat for velvet. I wouldn't use TTM, the only alternate I would personally consider is Chloroquine Phosphate but it can be difficult to source, pure CP requires a vet's script.

Best me to it.

Any new fish get the copper, because TTM is only good for Ich, and velvet is super rampant.

I literally had everything good to go fir TTM, then I made a post asking about the current thoughts on ‘cutting edge’ QT. Very informative read, and I delayed getting any livestock until my checker came in, bought another tank and totally revised my QT plan. I was 24 hours from buying fish, but held off until I was set up properly.

TTM is great- it’s just not 100% suited to the current reality of disease management strategies in the hobby


And for the record- I blame you @4FordFamily, @HotRocks and @Humblefish. Your threads and posts in this area are gold

 

[4FordFamily]

Best me to it.

Any new fish get the copper, because TTM is only good for Ich, and velvet is super rampant.

I literally had everything good to go fir TTM, then I made a post asking about the current thoughts on ‘cutting edge’ QT. Very informative read, and I delayed getting any livestock until my checker came in, bought another tank and totally revised my QT plan. I was 24 hours from buying fish, but held off until I was set up properly.

TTM is great- it’s just not 100% suited to the current reality of disease management strategies in the hobby


And for the record- I blame you @4FordFamily, @HotRocks and @Humblefish. Your threads and posts in this area are gold

We try, I certainly wish that the terrible state of the fish distribution system wasn't such that it required such methods to keep fish healthy, and protect the fish in our existing DTs. But I try to deal with reality, not what "should be". The revised method we worked out (mostly @Humblefish and @HotRocks) seems to be working MUCH better. For anyone curious, it can be found below:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/