Unbelievable meltdown- HELP!

Bagelfish

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Had a meltdown back in January. All fish died overnight (not inverts) in a very stable tank which had been running over a year (37 gal. Bowfront: API canister, coral life skimmer). Checked all levels at the time, everything in order. FYI: Had broken down and cleaned the canister several days before the meltdown, Chalked it up to one of the mysteries of saltwater fish keeping. Let the tank run, doing routine maintenance until this week. Decided it was time to add some fish. Checked levels: ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all 0; phosphate at .07, ph 8.0, salinity 1.023, temp 78. Bought three new damsels and dripped them for 2 hours. Added them to tank and walked away briefly. Came back 3 minutes later and all were dead. I honestly don't know what to check or measure at this point. Never seen anything like this. I have spent some time closely observing the tank over the last several days. I noticed that there is considerable rust and corrosion on the metal legs of my led light strip. Haven't really paid much attention to it. Could this be creating a toxin which could kill the fish? Not a chemist so I don't really have a clue. I know some will say I should have quarantined. I get it, but that doesn't explain the first meltdown. Those fish had been in my tank for 6 months or more. I would greatly appreciate any insight that anyone could offer. As I said, I really don't know where to go from here. Thanks, in advance for your comments.
 
Had a meltdown back in January. All fish died overnight (not inverts) in a very stable tank which had been running over a year (37 gal. Bowfront: API canister, coral life skimmer). Checked all levels at the time, everything in order. FYI: Had broken down and cleaned the canister several days before the meltdown, Chalked it up to one of the mysteries of saltwater fish keeping. Let the tank run, doing routine maintenance until this week. Decided it was time to add some fish. Checked levels: ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all 0; phosphate at .07, ph 8.0, salinity 1.023, temp 78. Bought three new damsels and dripped them for 2 hours. Added them to tank and walked away briefly. Came back 3 minutes later and all were dead. I honestly don't know what to check or measure at this point. Never seen anything like this. I have spent some time closely observing the tank over the last several days. I noticed that there is considerable rust and corrosion on the metal legs of my led light strip. Haven't really paid much attention to it. Could this be creating a toxin which could kill the fish? Not a chemist so I don't really have a clue. I know some will say I should have quarantined. I get it, but that doesn't explain the first meltdown. Those fish had been in my tank for 6 months or more. I would greatly appreciate any insight that anyone could offer. As I said, I really don't know where to go from here. Thanks, in advance for your comments.
Welcome to the r2r family. :)
Find the Randy Holmes-Farley Chemistry forum on 2r2 and post it over there.

Regards, GoVols
 
Don't know how to check that. Also, wouldn't that affect the inverts as well?

Do you have a volt meter?

If not, pick up a cheap one at any hardware or big box store.

If you do, set the volt meter to AC. Place one lead on a verified grounded point such as the ground socket of a standard outlet or the wall plate screw between both wall outlets. Be careful to keep the lead out of the vertical slots. If the screw is painted you may need to expose the bare metal under the paint to get a good ground.

Place the other lead in the aquarium and read the meter. You should read nothing as long as there is no stray voltage in the aquarium.

Repeat this for the sump if you have one.

 
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I think every marine aquarium owner should have a portable GFCI outlet if they don't use GFCI receptacles. They are cheap and easy to use. Here is one stocked in most Home Depots.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-Plug-In-GFCI-Adapter-3-Wire-Grounding-30339036/203741464

Used in conjunction with a ground probe they make detecting failing electrical equipment easy.

https://www.amazon.com/RV2735-Rid-V...8&qid=1491170583&sr=8-2&keywords=ground+probe

Install the ground probe then plug in your electrical devices into the GFCI unit one at a time. If it trips, you know that piece of equipment is faulty.


On a separate note, any chance you have gotten some soap in your system? Soap can very quickly kill fish as it clogs their gills and keeps them from breathing. Not sure how it affects inverts.
 
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On a separate note, any chance you have gotten some soap in your system? Soap can very quickly kill fish as it clogs their gills and keeps them from breathing. Not sure how it affects inverts.
Thanks for the above note. :rolleyes:

Did not know that. :)
 
Yes Rust is not a good idea to have over a tank. This will raise the metal content of the water. Another thing to do is get another type of filter. Canister filters are not great for use in saltwater. You want to use a hang on the back filter doesn't require you to mess with the biological part of the filter only mess with the mechanical filter.
 
I think every marine aquarium owner should have a portable GFCI outlet if they don't use GFCI receptacles. They are cheap and easy to use. Here is one stocked in most Home Depots.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-Plug-In-GFCI-Adapter-3-Wire-Grounding-30339036/203741464

Used in conjunction with a ground probe they make detecting failing electrical equipment easy.

https://www.amazon.com/RV2735-Rid-V...8&qid=1491170583&sr=8-2&keywords=ground+probe

Install the ground probe then plug in your electrical devices into the GFCI unit one at a time. If it trips, you know that piece of equipment is faulty.


On a separate note, any chance you have gotten some soap in your system? Soap can very quickly kill fish as it clogs their gills and keeps them from breathing. Not sure how it affects inverts.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Already using a portable GFCI. Didn't know that hang-on filters were preferable to canisters. I've been out of the loop for many years. Canisters were considered state of the art back when I started my first saltwater tank. Of course, undergravel filters were also considered a necessity back then. Should I buy new lights? I don't think I can remove or seal the metal on my current lights.
 
Already using a portable GFCI. Didn't know that hang-on filters were preferable to canisters. I've been out of the loop for many years. Canisters were considered state of the art back when I started my first saltwater tank. Of course, undergravel filters were also considered a necessity back then. Should I buy new lights? I don't think I can remove or seal the metal on my current lights.
A light sanding and a spray paint like Rustolium should take care of your rusting issue.

And yest, canister filters are now considered bad. The HOB (hang on back) filters are now preferred since they act like mini sumps. Ones like this review even have a build in surface skimmer. Much better than a canister filter.
https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/the-tidal-55-by-seachem-review.270/
 
The drip for two hours is what most likely killed them. Ammonia built up in their water. Ammonia concentration in a sealed bag won't kill a fish, but once that water is exposed to fresh air, becomes toxic real quick.

If they were all together in one bag, then released into a bucket with the same water as the bag, then slow dripped for two hours, bingo! Dead fish, ammonia toxicity.
 
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The drip for two hours is what most likely killed them. Ammonia built up in their water. Ammonia concentration in a sealed bag won't kill a fish, but once that water is exposed to fresh air, becomes toxic real quick.

If they were all together in one bag, then released into a bucket with the same water as the bag, then slow dripped for two hours, bingo! Dead fish, ammonia toxicity.

What if you empty out half of water every thirty minutes? What I've always done.
 
The drip for two hours is what most likely killed them. Ammonia built up in their water. Ammonia concentration in a sealed bag won't kill a fish, but once that water is exposed to fresh air, becomes toxic real quick.

If they were all together in one bag, then released into a bucket with the same water as the bag, then slow dripped for two hours, bingo!
That is a very long drip time.
I go for 45min max and dump out half the water at the mid point of the drip time.

If it's not stray current then the 2 hour drip is staring me in the face too.

The below is from Divers Den: (WYSIWYG)
Never place an airstone into the shipping bag when acclimating your new arrival. This will increase the pH of the shipping water too quickly and expose your new arrival to lethal ammonia.
 
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What if you empty out half of water every thirty minutes? What I've always done.

Doing that way your reducing the ammonia, adding oxygen to the water and helping the PH that the fish are in.
So yes, that's fine. Better to remove a small cup full and add DT water to replace it every 10 minutes.
 

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