Upgrade and replace burnt out LEDs in AI Lights

[mlivvy]

If anyone wants to try this out on a Vega, I have one HERE for sale and i'll include the blue LED star to do the surgery.

 

[rolyguy7]

Already posted this on another thread, but it's gotten a bit off topic. Thought others might find this useful.

I picked up some old AI Vegas a little while back for cheap. After doing some research, it looks like AI no longer supports the upgrade program, and they of course no longer support the Vega, so I decided to find out if I could solder in new LEDs. Unfortunately these aren't as DIY friendly as some lights, but I had some success doing it today with a broken test unit I picked up for cheap using the method in this video.


I can definitively say that it's 100% possible to upgrade and replace individual LED chips on the pucks. I will say, I recommend getting in some practice before you throw good pucks on the heat though. Try flowing them off and on and off and on the stars they come on. When you think you're ready, turn the temperature down lower than you think you need, and work up from there SLOWLY. Aside from that, just know that the positive side can be determined by looking at the back of the chip. It'll have an arrow pointing to one side. The side with the arrow is positive, the side it POINTS TO is negative.

Also, contrary to what I read online, the whites AREN'T XM-L chips on this particular unit. The contact patch on the XM-L2 chip is too big. Use an XP-G3 or XP-E2 here instead. It must have been a version change.

Anyway, I let my heat get too high on the puck I tested, and delaminated my board a bit, which ruins it's ability to transfer heat properly. It still lights up though, and I think I've got my temperature control down pat. I plan on ordering more LEDs to try on the rest of my test unit's pucks. Anyway, here are some pictures.

Here is the before shot. I replaced the burnt out LED, one of the Royal blues, and the center white with one of the old royal blues after I realized I'd ruined that section.

In case you're unfamiliar with what these look like opened up.

The puck and parts

I've got an entirely blue puck now. 1 new xp-g2 royal, 1 xp-e2 blue, and one old xp-e royal that I swapped onto the bubbled white position to see if it still worked

Here it is closed back up. I've got it running in the garage to test it currently.

I just ordered the rest of the LEDs from RapidLED to do the rest of the pucks on the test unit. If all goes well, I'll do my 3 good fixtures.

Will the xp-e2 blue work for replacing the blue led’s on the AI sol blue lights?

 

[DesertPalm]

If anyone wants to try this out on a Vega, I have one HERE for sale and i'll include the blue LED star to do the surgery.

Hello mlivvy, I realize I’m seeing your post just now several months later, do you still have this Vega available? I think my mainboard has failed; for AI Vega’s light that has four lenses, four LED pucks, etc. Also the fan does not function.

 

[mlivvy]

Hello mlivvy, I realize I’m seeing your post just now several months later, do you still have this Vega available? I think my mainboard has failed; for AI Vega’s light that has four lenses, four LED pucks, etc. Also the fan does not function.

sold a while ago sorry.

 

[CanadaCraig]

Old thread, sorry, but I'm at my wits end trying to remove the LEDs from the pucks. I'm trying to replace LEDs in several Hydra's, of which have either Hydra or Sol v3 pucks.
I'm using an electric skillet, at increasing temperatures, and the solder is reflowing (with or without help of solder paste), but the LEDs won't come off... Feels like I'm already putting too much force with the tweezers.
Is there some glue/adhesive that AI has put on the pucks in addition to just solder?

Anyone run into this, with LEDs being stubborn to come off? I've only had success removing 1 led on 1 puck, but seems a fluke now.

 

[oreo54]

Old thread, sorry, but I'm at my wits end trying to remove the LEDs from the pucks. I'm trying to replace LEDs in several Hydra's, of which have either Hydra or Sol v3 pucks.
I'm using an electric skillet, at increasing temperatures, and the solder is reflowing (with or without help of solder paste), but the LEDs won't come off... Feels like I'm already putting too much force with the tweezers.
Is there some glue/adhesive that AI has put on the pucks in addition to just solder?

Anyone run into this, with LEDs being stubborn to come off? I've only had success removing 1 led on 1 puck, but seems a fluke now.

Doesn't help but may make you feel better..

Outer pucks are impossible. Somehow, they completely made it so that the led burns out before the solder is even close to melting. The inner pucks are doable, not sure why it's different, but the inner pucks remove like AI Sols. Those royal blues on the outer pucks are a no go.

Hydra Diode Replacment

The Blue channel went out on my old Gen1 Hydra. Contacted AI and the pucks have been discontinued. Anyone ever replace the Diode on a Hydra or see any complication? Thanks

www.reef2reef.com

You're not alone...

Best I’ve found is it’s hard due how they are attached (heat slow, cool slow).

My take just ht lead free solder.

 

[mk_reefs]

Already posted this on another thread, but it's gotten a bit off topic. Thought others might find this useful.

I picked up some old AI Vegas a little while back for cheap. After doing some research, it looks like AI no longer supports the upgrade program, and they of course no longer support the Vega, so I decided to find out if I could solder in new LEDs. Unfortunately these aren't as DIY friendly as some lights, but I had some success doing it today with a broken test unit I picked up for cheap using the method in this video.


I can definitively say that it's 100% possible to upgrade and replace individual LED chips on the pucks. I will say, I recommend getting in some practice before you throw good pucks on the heat though. Try flowing them off and on and off and on the stars they come on. When you think you're ready, turn the temperature down lower than you think you need, and work up from there SLOWLY. Aside from that, just know that the positive side can be determined by looking at the back of the chip. It'll have an arrow pointing to one side. The side with the arrow is positive, the side it POINTS TO is negative.

Also, contrary to what I read online, the whites AREN'T XM-L chips on this particular unit. The contact patch on the XM-L2 chip is too big. Use an XP-G3 or XP-E2 here instead. It must have been a version change.

Anyway, I let my heat get too high on the puck I tested, and delaminated my board a bit, which ruins it's ability to transfer heat properly. It still lights up though, and I think I've got my temperature control down pat. I plan on ordering more LEDs to try on the rest of my test unit's pucks. Anyway, here are some pictures.

Here is the before shot. I replaced the burnt out LED, one of the Royal blues, and the center white with one of the old royal blues after I realized I'd ruined that section.

In case you're unfamiliar with what these look like opened up.

The puck and parts

I've got an entirely blue puck now. 1 new xp-g2 royal, 1 xp-e2 blue, and one old xp-e royal that I swapped onto the bubbled white position to see if it still worked

Here it is closed back up. I've got it running in the garage to test it currently.

I just ordered the rest of the LEDs from RapidLED to do the rest of the pucks on the test unit. If all goes well, I'll do my 3 good fixtures.

Hopefully your still reefing, this post made me buy six sols and controller for 75$ a deal I couldn't pass up. A few LEDs are burned up or not working. But otherwise the fixtures are clean or appear to be. Guy said he ran them from 09 to 2012 and then they got thrown in a box because he purchased radions. Is there a certain wattage led I'm looking for in the I think g3 crees you mentioned? I want to take the whole channels and swap that with cyan and violets leaving the blues and royals alone. I appreciate it, praying you could answer!

 

[mk_reefs]

Hopefully your still reefing, this post made me buy six sols and controller for 75$ a deal I couldn't pass up. A few LEDs are burned up or not working. But otherwise the fixtures are clean or appear to be. Guy said he ran them from 09 to 2012 and then they got thrown in a box because he purchased radions. Is there a certain wattage led I'm looking for in the I think g3 crees you mentioned? I want to take the whole channels and swap that with cyan and violets leaving the blues and royals alone. I appreciate it, praying you could answer!

I have the mechanical capabilities to replace the LEDs, I just need an LED brain to give me options on what to purchase

 

[oreo54]

CREE either never made or never made available violets or cyan at that time.

You would need to match the footprint on the circuit board to those err " new" colors.
Some people have done work arounds but not my forte.

To be honest best to consult with @_AV and let others do the work .
I'm sure you could but it might not be as cost effective as you think.

Most were done with " 3w class" diodes " back in the day".

 

[mk_reefs]

CREE either never made or never made available violets or cyan at that time.

You would need to match the footprint on the circuit board to those err " new" colors.
Some people have done work arounds but not my forte.

To be honest best to consult with @_AV and let others do the work .
I'm sure you could but it might not be as cost effective as you think.

Most were done with " 3w class" diodes " back in the day".

Are these just 3535

CREE either never made or never made available violets or cyan at that time.

You would need to match the footprint on the circuit board to those err " new" colors.
Some people have done work arounds but not my forte.

To be honest best to consult with @_AV and let others do the work .
I'm sure you could but it might not be as cost effective as you think.

Most were done with " 3w class" diodes " back in the day".

I'm not worried about costs, I'd like to start with one to try it out. It's a new project and it'd keep me busy. Maybe I'll keep it original for simplicity or throw in another blue. Am I just looking for 3 w xp-g3's and xp-e2's? 3535?

 

[oreo54]

Are these just 3535

I'm not worried about costs, I'd like to start with one to try it out. It's a new project and it'd keep me busy. Maybe I'll keep it original for simplicity or throw in another blue. Am I just looking for 3 w xp-g3's and xp-e2's? 3535?

You can mic the diodes but yea likely 3 45mm x 3.45mm so yes 3535's
Samsung..

 

[jrp1588]

Hopefully your still reefing, this post made me buy six sols and controller for 75$ a deal I couldn't pass up. A few LEDs are burned up or not working. But otherwise the fixtures are clean or appear to be. Guy said he ran them from 09 to 2012 and then they got thrown in a box because he purchased radions. Is there a certain wattage led I'm looking for in the I think g3 crees you mentioned? I want to take the whole channels and swap that with cyan and violets leaving the blues and royals alone. I appreciate it, praying you could answer!

Still around, but haven't messed with this in ages. Results were too wonky, and I often failed to find the balance between desoldering the LEDs and frying the pucks.

 

[mk_reefs]

Still around, but haven't messed with this in ages. Results were too wonky, and I often failed to find the balance between desoldering the LEDs and frying the pucks.

I appreciate your reply hope all is well on your end. What method did you use if you remember?