Water Analysis Report Attached. What RO/DI stage do I need?

[Quicklynx]

When I bought my house back in July I was required to get a water analysis report prior to purchasing.

That being said I am on well and septic in this home, which has it's pros and cons, of course, like not being able to flush the wasted saltwater down the drain.

However, I was wondering what you all think about my water test. Looks like I'd at least need a 3 stage for the fish, and if I ever wanted to do corals probably need to go further.

I was hoping I'd get away with well water, but not sure if my biological filtration will take care of some of the metals, etc..

Thanks for any input.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I'm not sure what stages you are considering not using, but DI alone is sufficient. An Ro membrane will make the DI resin last far longer and be cheaper in the long run. To use the RO you will need a sediment filter before it. There's no particular need for a carbon block if it is not chlorinated before you use it.

 

[Quicklynx]

I'm not sure what stages you are considering not using, but DI alone is sufficient. An Ro membrane will make the DI resin last far longer and be cheaper in the long run. To use the RO you will need a sediment filter before it. There's no particular need for a carbon block if it is not chlorinated before you use it.

Thank you, Randy.

I am trying to figure out which system would be best for my purposes. At the moment I only have fish, but would like to run corals in the future.

I currently have about 350g between 5 different tanks running.

I have a 400g tank and a ~40-55g sump being built.

My current plan of action is to consolidate all the current tanks down into the 400g, and then repurpose them in the future.

The eventual plans are to breed some fish, (Angels, Basslets, Anthias) and also to get into corals and growing them out as well.

There is just so much information and so many brands/equipment kits that it can be very overwhelming to figure out what is right for my needs.

I know I can add on in the future, but figure I would try to knock out everything I would need now for my endeavors.

 

[Quicklynx]

Correct me if I'm wrong (as I'm no expert) from analyzing my report, and verifying against the parameters that are critical to control in a reef aquarium, everything looks good except for my Alkalinity and pH.

With the addition of a salt like regular Instant Ocean, the Calcium and Magnesium levels should theoretically be within the range.

The Alkalinity would probably be fairly high, and the pH low.

I will be running a Algae Turf Scrubber, but am debating on replacing with a Pax Bellum Arid C30 Chaeto Reactor, or a DIY equivalent.

Other filtration/equipment would be a Fleece Roller, Skimmer, Brightwell BIO and Nitrate XPort block, and a UV Sterilizer.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Correct me if I'm wrong (as I'm no expert) from analyzing my report, and verifying against the parameters that are critical to control in a reef aquarium, everything looks good except for my Alkalinity and pH.

With the addition of a salt like regular Instant Ocean, the Calcium and Magnesium levels should theoretically be within the range.

The Alkalinity would probably be fairly high, and the pH low.

I will be running a Algae Turf Scrubber, but am debating on replacing with a Pax Bellum Arid C30 Chaeto Reactor, or a DIY equivalent.

Other filtration/equipment would be a Fleece Roller, Skimmer, Brightwell BIO and Nitrate XPort block, and a UV Sterilizer.

The big issue is the copper and secondary is calcium and magnesium. I do not see an alkalinity measurement. Zinc may also be a concern.

Both mean you must use a DI, and to do so, I'd use an RO/DI.

 

[sharpimage]

A decent ro/di system is a small investment in the grand scheme and plays a vital role. Buy it once and be done.

 

[Arabyps]

IMO your water quality is fundamental to all issues with reef tanks. RO/DI is the only way to eliminate water quality issues from the start. Other issues may follow-on but without RO/DI you will always wonder whether the problem is fundamental to the initial water quality. I use the following:

 

[Quicklynx]

The big issue is the copper and secondary is calcium and magnesium. I do not see an alkalinity measurement. Zinc may also be a concern.

Both mean you must use a DI, and to do so, I'd use an RO/DI.

Thank you!

 

[Mical]

Personally If I were in your position with size of tank you're planning, I'd use this -> https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/7-st...ver-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply-bundle.html It's better to be over-prepared than having to add on later. Ask me how I know....

 

[Quicklynx]

IMO your water quality is fundamental to all issues with reef tanks. RO/DI is the only way to eliminate water quality issues from the start. Other issues may follow-on but without RO/DI you will always wonder whether the problem is fundamental to the initial water quality. I use the following:

Thank you. The link isn't posting properly. Not sure if this is on my end preventing me from seeing it.

 

[Arabyps]

Thank you. The link isn't posting properly. Not sure if this is on my end preventing me from seeing it.

Sorry. Works for me. Just go to Amazon and search.

 

[Quicklynx]

Personally If I were in your position with size of tank you're planning, I'd use this -> https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/7-st...ver-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply-bundle.html It's better to be over-prepared than having to add on later. Ask me how I know....

Thank you, definitely considering the 7 stage.

The Spectrapure 5 stage has been recommended to me as I guess it's been kind of an industry standard, but I assume with what I plan on doing the 7 stage might be the better option if I'm running it enough.

 

[Suohhen]

Thank you, Randy.

I am trying to figure out which system would be best for my purposes. At the moment I only have fish, but would like to run corals in the future.

I currently have about 350g between 5 different tanks running.

I have a 400g tank and a ~40-55g sump being built.

My current plan of action is to consolidate all the current tanks down into the 400g, and then repurpose them in the future.

The eventual plans are to breed some fish, (Angels, Basslets, Anthias) and also to get into corals and growing them out as well.

There is just so much information and so many brands/equipment kits that it can be very overwhelming to figure out what is right for my needs.

I know I can add on in the future, but figure I would try to knock out everything I would need now for my endeavors.

I certainly understand what you mean by it being overwhelming. Add the fact that so much of the high end equipment is $300+ a piece and this is never a fun path to travel. All I can tell you is that the investment truly pays off in some cases, poor quality lights and pumps are only a cost in the long run. It sucks that the hobby only seems to have a floor and a ceiling when it comes to prices of many of these products but the options are getting better. I have 8 $300+ pieces of equipment on my 100gal tank but my return pump is a Jaebo, and I use a marineland 900 in my refugium because they are perfectly fine for my application. I also bought most of my equipment years ago when the options were far more floor and ceiling, and I can imagine while the market has expanded so much, it can be overwhelming to dig through all the options.

 

[Mical]

Thank you, definitely considering the 7 stage.

The Spectrapure 5 stage has been recommended to me as I guess it's been kind of an industry standard, but I assume with what I plan on doing the 7 stage might be the better option if I'm running it enough.

I'm in a similar situation as you, + we don't like tossing waste water. We use it for laundry, plants, car wash, etc... It's a small investment that pays for itself in months. Plus with the water saver (extra membrane) there's less waste water. Also note, check water pressure in your home, if its below 40psi you're going to want to purchase a booster pump. Boosting pressure up to 80-90 psi makes the membrane work more efficiently and makes more RODI water & faster.

 

[Quicklynx]

I certainly understand what you mean by it being overwhelming. Add the fact that so much of the high end equipment is $300+ a piece and this is never a fun path to travel. All I can tell you is that the investment truly pays off in some cases, poor quality lights and pumps are only a cost in the long run. It sucks that the hobby only seems to have a floor and a ceiling when it comes to prices of many of these products but the options are getting better. I have 8 $300+ pieces of equipment on my 100gal tank but my return pump is a Jaebo, and I use a marineland 900 in my refugium because they are perfectly fine for my application. I also bought most of my equipment years ago when the options were far more floor and ceiling, and I can imagine while the market has expanded so much, it can be overwhelming to dig through all the options.

I'm all for high quality. I don't mind spending extra for that. All the stuff I purchase is usually in the higher quality range as my fish investments tend to be a little higher than the average collector.

I'm hoping to breed some of the rarer Angels and Anthias one day, so figure the highest of water quality is going to be a must.

 

[Suohhen]

I'm all for high quality. I don't mind spending extra for that. All the stuff I purchase is usually in the higher quality range as my fish investments tend to be a little higher than the average collector.

I'm hoping to breed some of the rarer Angels and Anthias one day, so figure the highest of water quality is going to be a must.

Well then it is a lot more simple, the leaders in this industry are Neptune, Kessil, and Ecotech. There are others but these three are the bar by which all else is measured.

 

[Quicklynx]

Well then it is a lot more simple, the leaders in this industry are Neptune, Kessil, and Ecotech. There are others but these three are the bar by which all else is measured.

Currently running Neptune Apex + Accessories and AI Hydras. The Overflows are 2x 2400gph H2Overflow Stealthboxes.

When it comes to lights, it seems like the brands continuously one up each other, which is fantastic, but until I need an additional light, I'll stick with what I have at the time.

I have everything pretty much sorted out in terms of equipment. The Skimmer is my cheapest of equipment, as it is a BM Curve7. The only reason I haven't upgraded yet is because I've never ran a fleece roller before, and want to build a skimmer around that, plus the ATS/Chaeto Reactor, and BIO/Xport blocks. For the intial FOWLR stages I think I can get by to start.

I am still trying to figure out how to heat this thing. I think I'm going to run 2-4 heaters on a dedicated EB832.

I'm not positive if I should run a Chaeto Reactor, which I would be looking at the Pax Bellum Arid C30. I am debating on just running a DIY one as well.

 

[Mical]

You might consider the older EB8 vs EB832 for your heaters. Although you won't get voltage monitoring w/EB8 they are more robust (and cheaper)

 

[Quicklynx]

You might consider the older EB8 vs EB832 for your heaters. Although you won't get voltage monitoring w/EB8 they are more robust (and cheaper)

I was actually considering that, as I know I can draw more from the EB8.

Would the voltage monitoring help on a heater other than knowing if it failed? I assume if it decided to go the other way and boil the tank, I wouldn't have much benefit.

In my personal experience, in terms of equipment, I probably go through failed heaters more than anything else.

It didn't matter if I was running an expensive $500 heater, or a cheap $30-50, they all would fail randomly.

 

[anthonygf]

Wow! your ph is kinda low. You don't drink that water do you? From what I have read over the years low ph water is not healthy, just from what I have discovered from talking to doctors and reading. Even though I have city water I don't drink it much, I buy high alkaline water in the 8-9 ph.