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Wow i have no idea wht those are lol.. I will look them up now tho n is it a plus to do in a fowlr tank? N why please?
How big is your tankThis was interesting to see how everyone else does it.
I use to do 10% every week for yrs. Tank was awesome. Then life got crazy and I did like 2 changes a yr. Corals got mad, hair algae grew every where, tank was terrible.
Now I do 10% every week. Tank looks awesome.
I don't.So how do you remove phosphates and nitrates?
yesSo if I were to dose alkalinity and calcium, and had macro algae to eat my nitrates and phosphates, I shouldn't have to do a lot of water changes
you might have to protect the macro algae from fish and cleaner crews. I used 1/4" square plastic grid (egg crate) used as light diffusers in dropped ceilinge to partition the back 2-3 to form a refugium. then add lights behind the tank pointing forward. Nitrates dropped to 0 in three weeks. pods and macros thrived and my tangs enjoyed grazing on the macros that poked through the grid.Would there be anything else I would have to do?
I say go for it. Don't be surprised if during initial startup you get a 3-4 week or so 20ppm or so nitrate spike. With little to no ammonia/nitrite spikes. that just happens when the tank has lotsa plant life.I will be having a sump with refugium and ill have two other tanks specificity for macro
When I had my fresh water with mostly African Cichlids I never did water changes but I did use a diatom filter with carbon powder to clean tank and stir up the gravel in a 90 gallon tank. Doing bare bottom on my current 240 gallon reef tank, hate water changes.+1
have ran a mixed reef tank for up to nine years and FW planted system for up to 9 years also with no water changes. Nitrates and phosphates unmeasureable. FW tank 10g had a more or less stable population of 30 live bearers for years.
my .02

