water storage

stevef22 · Jul 3, 2019

I think my brute trash cans are the cause for my high phosphates... I have a 30 gallon i keep for my ATO and a 44 gallon I use for water changes.

When I'm making ro/di for water changes I run my powerhead for the duration as it takes a good day to fill up, I don't run a powerhead in my ATO storage. I clean them every few months with white vinegar but I still think they are part of my high phosphate problem. They are dark gray, covered and in a basement so not much light.

Should i switch to different storage containers? Or run a powerhead in my ATO storage, or both? I see a lot of people with the large white ones... are they for potable water, food grade or anything special? Do you run powerheads in them?

Gareth elliott · Jul 3, 2019

I use a potable 15 gallon water container from walmart for my awc. Was not exactly cheap tbh. I have never heard of brute containers leaching phosphate before so tagging along.

road_runner · Jul 3, 2019

The problem with these trash containers, I cannot tell for sure if they leach something or not and if they react to the salt water and go through some chemistry reaction.
My rule of thumb, unless its food grade and NSF I do not use it.
I use the big 65g container that are built for drinking water. You can find them relatively cheap online with delievery .

Mastiffsrule · Jul 3, 2019

Hello tonight.

An easy way to see if they are an issue is test the water before going in the tank. I think brute sell more cans to reefers than any other use. Kidding

I have 2 in use 10 years. But like ohashimz mentioned there is that unknown. Wondering if Randy ever address the subject.

road_runner · Jul 3, 2019

Mastiffsrule said:
Hello tonight.

An easy way to see if they are an issue is test the water before going in the tank. I think brute sell more cans to reefers than any other use. Kidding

I have 2 in use 10 years. But like ohashimz mentioned there is that unknown. Wondering if Randy ever address the subject.

Never saw such literature about that, but he did talk in the past about plastic and vinyl tubings leaching silica..

Mastiffsrule · Jul 3, 2019

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
I can't think of a reason except perhaps surface are to volume ratio, or perhaps mildew likes to grow on the exposed plastic parts more than glass. I never had an objectionable odor with my Brute cans (grey, 44 gallon types).

I sometimes think he invented the modern day reefing all things chemical ;Jawdrop

Mical · Jul 3, 2019

What is the TDS of your RODI water? I ask because recently I replaced my DI resin and noticed TDS was reading 4 instead of 0. Puzzled I rechecked and found I place resin cylinder in upside down allowing water to bypass resin. (DUH!) Flipped cylinder back to 0 TDS.

stevef22 · Jul 3, 2019

I have tested and seen phosphates at .5ppm. I don’t think it’s the can or the plastic but the gunk that seems to form in it... maybe due to not using a powerhead??

Gareth elliott · Jul 3, 2019

stevef22 said:
I have tested and seen phosphates at .5ppm. I don’t think it’s the can or the plastic but the gunk that seems to form in it... maybe due to not using a powerhead??

What salt are you using? I have used quite a few salts never seen phosphate in any of them.

stevef22 · Jul 3, 2019

Mical said:
What is the TDS of your RODI water? I ask because recently I replaced my DI resin and noticed TDS was reading 4 instead of 0. Puzzled I rechecked and found I place resin cylinder in upside down allowing water to bypass resin. (DUH!) Flipped cylinder back to 0 TDS.

0 tds sorry forgot to mention that. I can try to get some pics of my setup

stevef22 · Jul 3, 2019

Gareth elliott said:
What salt are you using? I have used quite a few salts never seen phosphate in any of them.

Was using Res sea coral pro for years... recently switched to Fritz for lower alk

Mical · Jul 3, 2019

I would probably clean them out using 50/50 water vinegar solution. I've never had a problem with Brute cans but I run a powerhead 24/7.

road_runner · Jul 3, 2019

Mastiffsrule said:
I sometimes think he invented the modern day reefing all things chemical ;Jawdrop

Absolutely adore this man. Tone of respect.
Observe him he rarely endorse a product. The modern age kh tester method is invented by him. Yet he do not talk about the products rather the science behind it.
I see some people do the opposit, they use their name in reefing industry to advocate for companies or products directly or indirectly. Once you do that you loose credibility..

road_runner · Jul 3, 2019

Oh btw po4 might come from debris and accumulation over time that break down..when was the last time you cleaned the container and the power heads or pumps in it?
Lots of salt mixes out there carry impurities and small amounts if foreign objects that accumulate over time in the mixing container. I clean mine twice a year.

stevef22 · Jul 3, 2019

Mical said:
I would probably clean them out using 50/50 water vinegar solution. I've never had a problem with Brute cans but I run a powerhead 24/7.

Ohashimz said:
Oh btw po4 might come from debris and accumulation over time that break down..when was the last time you cleaned the container and the power heads or pumps in it?
Lots of salt mixes out there carry impurities and small amounts if foreign objects that accumulate over time in the mixing container. I clean mine twice a year.

Good point, I’ve cleaned the containers but never the pumps and I will add a powerhead to see if it helps.

road_runner · Jul 3, 2019

stevef22 said:
Good point, I’ve cleaned the containers but never the pumps and I will add a powerhead to see if it helps.

Clean equipment. In 6 months I get black stuff out of these equipments.
Also check if there is any corrosion on anything that you have inside there...cheap equipment decays over time.
Even cables that are submerged collect so much stuff..

Mical · Jul 3, 2019

Another note: backflush your RODI unit everytime you make fresh water. It's something I overlooked when I first got into reefing. Backflush for a minute or two then make your water.