Results speak for themselves. The back glass was covered two days ago.
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Results speak for themselves. The back glass was covered two days ago.![]()
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In their second Video on the 800G, Vivid Aquarium recommended Bakers Yeast. 1/4 tsp/400 G water/day for several days. I'm in Day 3 and I am starting to see improvements. They said they use it in all tanks now.
Well day 2 and just dosed 2nd waste away dosage...im hoping my flame hawk and blue star dont perish due to this treatment. My ph is running at 7.8 right now

I'm telling you buddy I have the solution!
Do you need a business partner lol. Following this one for sureAlso to point out there are over 2200 different species of dinoflagellates with different living conditions.
So it comes down to what has worked for an individual tank may not work for another.
Just something to keep in mind so no arguments start![]()
and I love every step of the wayIf you like technical reading here is a good source of information to start with.Exactly. Case in point is the species I have been fighting for almost a year. Everyone says dinos swim in the water column at night and that they are toxic to inverts - but that's not always the case. I actually have a non-mobile version that never killed any of my snails. I sent it off to @Pants and he confirmed this. But it does make some crazy thick snot that chokes out all life if not siphoned regularly.
Since mine are non-mobile the peroxide treatment is useless as they are never in the water column. That's why I am hoping either Twilliard's new method or Fl_Reefers treatments are viable.
Also to point out there are over 2200 different species of dinoflagellates with different living conditions.
So it comes down to what has worked for an individual tank may not work for another.
Just something to keep in mind so no arguments start![]()
I have about 7 different species documented from 7 different tanks.Very true bud, that I why I said that in my OP. There has to be some similarities because most look the same to the naked eye. I'm curious twilliard, how many different kinds you looked at under the scope and from how many different tanks they came from? It would be cool if everyone could send you the dinos there dealing with in their tanks so you can scope them and see if they are similar in anyway (you know cause I'm sure you don't have anything to do for the next year or so, lol)
Also I'm curious if a few particular different strains only show up in home aquaria. Just some food for thought.
Well here is how I think
The aquaria world has common issues in tanks ones that actually can end up in tank breakdowns or massive, harsh tank corrections.
What I look for is from one question "what do all of the species of a pest have in common"
From there I find a species wide solution
This is my futureand I love every step of the way
My wife also agrees to this, if this is successful then there is something readily available to tackle the DNA of these guys.Well most of them from the pics you posted look like single cell orgazisms and as you may know all cells like this have mostly the same parts so if you can attack a certain content of that cell ( as you are doing) it could work on a broad spectrum
Just added the refresh....final day before uncovering. Im worried about my fish![emoji15]I have noticed lately a bunch of people dealing with Dino. It's one of the worst things we have to deal with in this hobby and will make you want to pull your hair out! So, I thought I would share my method on how I beat Dino. It may work for you, it may not but when we have Dino and we are watching our corals and snail die away, we will give anything a try right?We all know how many different strands of Dino there are but I have been real successful with this process. Also I have tryed H2O2 dosing with no success in that treatment.
Here is the process that I have used to get rid of Dino in 2 different tanks, also my LFS had it in there display tanks (full sps) and used this process as well with the same results, NO MORE DINO! Never has come back either! Here we go:
Black out for 3 days, I'm mean no light at all, do not feed your fish either, they will be ok.
Day 1: dose Dr. Tim's waste away (recommended dose on the bottle)
Day 2: dose Dr. Tim's waste away (recommended dose on the bottle)
Day 3: dose Dr. Tim's re-fresh
( recommended dose on the bottle)
Day 4: uncover, clean protein skimmer and all filtration. Return to normal light schedule.
This process worked for me with great results, I hope it will help and work for you!

