Weird ATI ICP results

Anyway it looks like You have to low salinity and are adding to much trace elements.
Do You use 2 part kH addition? What kind of trace elements do You use?

An algae refugium or reactor would be a good idea. If You begin with water changes do only 10% at each time so You dont shock the corals with the new water values.
Or take out a few fishes and feed less.
 
Anyway it looks like You have to low salinity and are adding to much trace elements.
Do You use 2 part kH addition? What kind of trace elements do You use?

An algae refugium or reactor would be a good idea. If You begin with water changes do only 10% at each time so You dont shock the corals with the new water values.
Or take out a few fishes and feed less.
18 month no water change, not dosing trace element and only have a ca reactor also I have 2 refugium. Do you look at my tank picture? or here's my build thread
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/120-gal-no-water-change-deep-sand-bed-mixed-reef-tank.426499/
Does this tank condition looks like 364ppm NO3 and 4000 ppb iodine?
 
I never had values like that so I cant say. If You doubt the values I suggest that You make a new test but this time by Triton.
 
I too am experimenting with zero water changes, successfully (but with much mishap) over past 2 years.

Facts via experience: No one can eliminate H20 changes without RODI ATO and dosing everything required via reactors or directly and having multiple stages of filtering. Auto dosing is a must. That and test, test, and test again. Invest in and do all of these or do large and regular water changes.

ICP readings indicate tank is being dosed, though original post states otherwise. Obviously someone is dosing Iodine. It appears that person is confused between parts per trillion and parts per billion or said another way milligrams and micrograms. (Note all ICP results are in either milligrams OR micrograms. BIG difference) IE: this tank has been dosed with 10 times more I than it should have. Suggest seven 20% water changes, one every 3rd day to fix multiple faults per several ICP test problems indicated.

First get PSU to 35 slowly over the 1st 3 changes and hold perpetually thereafter. Then ICP test again, believe what you get back and dose to correct.

Good luck
 
I too am experimenting with zero water changes, successfully (but with much mishap) over past 2 years.

Facts via experience: No one can eliminate H20 changes without RODI ATO and dosing everything required via reactors or directly and having multiple stages of filtering. Auto dosing is a must. That and test, test, and test again. Invest in and do all of these or do large and regular water changes.

ICP readings indicate tank is being dosed, though original post states otherwise. Obviously someone is dosing Iodine. It appears that person is confused between parts per trillion and parts per billion or said another way milligrams and micrograms. (Note all ICP results are in either milligrams OR micrograms. BIG difference) IE: this tank has been dosed with 10 times more I than it should have. Suggest seven 20% water changes, one every 3rd day to fix multiple faults per several ICP test problems indicated.

First get PSU to 35 slowly over the 1st 3 changes and hold perpetually thereafter. Then ICP test again, believe what you get back and dose to correct.

Good luck

Thanks Here’s another reply from ATI

4277729ea4c06881ae1f8352e373f85a.jpg


I’m pretty sure 4ppm is equal to 4000ppb than equals to 4000 microgram per liter. So my main question is that my coral survive this concentration of iodine? And also 364 ppm no3
 
I would say your test result was likely contaminated somehow. I've used ATI tests every couple of months for a couple years now without issue. Actually has helped me determine where my test kits were bad or equipment needed calibration. I would just request another test kit from ATI and see if they'll hook you up as opposed to spending $45 on another test. I mean odds are it got contaminated on your end so they're not obligated to do anything but they might.
 
I would say your test result was likely contaminated somehow. I've used ATI tests every couple of months for a couple years now without issue. Actually has helped me determine where my test kits were bad or equipment needed calibration. I would just request another test kit from ATI and see if they'll hook you up as opposed to spending $45 on another test. I mean odds are it got contaminated on your end so they're not obligated to do anything but they might.
yea I give up already, I got my own ICP machine lab so was just wanting to compare them.
 
Has to be corrupted sample (hence getting the same result on multiple tests), x2 cperry 7467, send in another sample and get piece of mind
 
Something is really up with that iodine reading. I'm attaching my ATI test. Yes, my iodine is high, but I was adding 6mL of DIY Logul's solutions (I2/KI) each week for months in an 800L system. You numbers are 10 times larger than mine. So, somehow you have to be adding iodine. Maybe some food rich in KI or iodized salt. I really doubt it is a CaX thing.

2019-06-19_22-46-13.jpg
 
Something is really up with that iodine reading. I'm attaching my ATI test. Yes, my iodine is high, but I was adding 6mL of DIY Logul's solutions (I2/KI) each week for months in an 800L system. You numbers are 10 times larger than mine. So, somehow you have to be adding iodine. Maybe some food rich in KI or iodized salt. I really doubt it is a CaX thing.

2019-06-19_22-46-13.jpg

Only thing I add is home brew phytoplankton. So at this high reading I thought everything should be dead.
 
Tbh mate, no offense,but I would be inclined to go with the machine that costs hundreds of thousands. Going by the look of your tank you are doing something wrong. I would start with water changes

Bad advice. It looks like in this instance the 100k machine may have been accurate but that is not always the case as I have caught numerous ICP issues which were in some instances admitted as such by the testing company. You are right to question the tests when your tank is looking good (which it does) or results seem very odd. ICP testing is great but blind faith in it is not.
 
I can see high nitrates because you never know what’s in the water. Even if you filtered it and everything. It is odd though. For iodine, wow. I guess you should send to another company for rechecking.
 
If your sps is healthy and you aren’t getting an obscene amount of nuisance algae, your tank is obviously fine and the ICP test was simply skewed due to a contaminated sample given to them. A simple way to test this is to get another relatively fresh api nitrate test kit, do a another test and compare the results. If done properly, it’s not going to be more than a few ppm off, which will invalidate the icp results and isn’t going to matter much as it’ll most likely be within a healthy range judging by the appearance and growth rate of your acros. Also, I’m calling a high degree of poo poo on the iodine level considering the size of the zoa/paly colony i’m seeing.
 
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