What are the perfect parameters to start adding coral

[Roscovitch]

As you have already read, everyone has offered parameters which are different. That’s because there are different ways to run marine systems and also some pick a number for no good reason other than it’s “in the middle ground” or they have read that a particular tank they admire runs at XYorZ. Look up Zeovit systems and you’ll see astonishing tanks with undetectable NO3 and PO4 which most people will tell you will kill you softies or LPS but there they are in some tanks clearly thriving. This of course is just a quick ‘heads up’ that the question should really be “what is the best system to run” because in each the parameters are sometimes different on purpose, with a whole load of reasons why that is. So my advice would be to research the systems of marine setups and follow the guide for that particular discipline. Maybe have a look at the Zeovit system to give you an idea of what I mean.

 

[Roscovitch]

Copied from the duplicate thread:

Are you really wanting "perfect", or are you asking "good enough"?

Perfection is not well defined and certainly varies by organism.

Appropriate target levels (IMO):

PH: 7.8 to 8.55
Alk: 7-11 dKH
Magn: 1280-1400 ppm
Calcium: 400-550 ppm
NH2: no such thing
NH3: 0.1 ppm total ammonia or less (unless you are carefully dosing and controlling it)

Looks very much like NSW Randy

 

[Villareefer]

You're a better man than me if you can wait 4-6 months to add corals I started with a complete new set up on the 25/11/21 and used Dr Tims and live sand to cycle, my first coral went in on the 12/12/21 a 8" elegance coral and been adding corals ever since. Think if get your numbers steady and you do your research and ask questions on here you'll be fine!

 

[Stigigemla]

I wonder how many has read post#6.
When I start a tank with used rock directly from another tank it is just to check the values and maybe run a phosphate remover to get the Phosphate under 0,2 ppm. The stones have their microphauna and their is no reason to starve it out.
When or if the phosphate is under 0.2 You can begin to add corals. Even in the first day. Take small steps and wait a week between all introductions of new animals. All corals can live in 0,2 ppm but they do better in a lower value.

There are 2 Hanna checkers I recommend. Nitrate and Phosphorous. Phosphorous very low range and Nitrate high range. For the precision of the values they are normally not needed but if You reduce one or both it is possible to follow the results. A standard color test dont say if You get 10% lower value but the Hanna checker does. And a reduction of 10% each week is very good in order to not chock the animals.
As Randy wrote there is great range of values You can have but don't let that fool You. It is the change of values that the animals are sensitive for.

Temperature and salinity are the 2 most important values. That is so self understood so we often forget to mention it.

 

[Freenow54]

the uglies will still show up, better to slug it out now and go through at least partially them without coral, especially if you do not have live rock, as diatoms will likely show up as soon as lights are on. Id recommend starting to get stable params, and getting some coraline growing before starting corals for the best start.

Could you explain " Diatoms ?

 

[Freenow54]

Lights are staying on than

The majority of people agree to leave the lights off. If you want a very good video go to Bulk Reef Supply videos. Not only do they address this , they also have videos covering everything from beginning to end. The great thing is you can watch them over and over. There is a lot to digest, and if you just rely on other peoples opinions you will be banging your head against the wall in no time. Dazed, and confused. My opinions are based on them, and people here, and just like everything you ultimately have to decide for yourself. My lights have been off for about 6 months, because I am waiting for my Apogee PAR meter to arrive. Been 4 weeks, I read there is none to be had at BRS. Hopefully not another covid thing. Back to the lights, they said it doesn't prevent it as mentioned but makes it manageable. Funny again like the vaccine. Maybe your dr. Fauci has something to say LOL

 

[Freenow54]

So after that is all said, and done I would like to add to the debate. frankieg is close to where I am with my new 90 tank with 45 sump tank. After a long learning process with my 45. As I stated am waiting for my PAR meter to arrive after a long thread where I asked as to its value. Not a cheap investment. I feel strongly that lights are the biggest factor in swings of parameters, and coral health. What I need to know is the PAR values that are best to achieve. Tank is 4 feet long, 24 in water depth, and 18 front to back, with 90 pounds of matured manufactured rock. Cycling has been complete for about 4 months

 

[Freenow54]

By the way. No mention of water quality. Really recommend investing in an RO system, with a Deionization Filter added. I bought a Watts no waste water one, with a DI filter off amazon along with replacement filters for the RO, and 5 Liter bags of media for the DI. I am treating tap water here is a picture proving its value. Huge difference in fish coral health

 

[SlugSnorter]

Could you explain " Diatoms ?

type of algae that eats silicates

 

[schooncw]

I forgot to mention this tank was bought used from a friend and I took 75% of the water from original place. And refill the tank with it once I transported it to my place.

there is virtually NO beneficial nitrifying bacteria in the water column

 

[frankieg2293]

By the way. No mention of water quality. Really recommend investing in an RO system, with a Deionization Filter added. I bought a Watts no waste water one, with a DI filter off amazon along with replacement filters for the RO, and 5 Liter bags of media for the DI. I am treating tap water here is a picture proving its value. Huge difference in fish coral health

I have one.

 

[frankieg2293]

Salinity: 1.025-1.026 (This is mainly a preference thing but I like to run mine at 1.026)
PH: 8.0 minimum
Alk: 7-10 dKH (Just pick a number to target and try to keep it there. I run mine around 8.5 since it's right in the middle.)
Magnesium: 1400
Calcium: 400-450
Nitrates: 5-15 ppm (If you're doing softies/LPS you can be on the high side, SPS should be a bit lower)
Phosphates: 0.02-0.10 ppm (Again, higher if you're doing softies/LPS)

While I definitely agree with @Lavey29 about being patient and letting the biodiversity develop, some of that biodiversity is going to come from adding corals and the bacteria and microfauna that comes off the corals and frag plugs.

How long has the tank been running? I think waiting 2-3 months is a good idea and then would start with some easy, hardy starter corals like xenia, mushrooms, green star polyp, zoanthids, etc to see if if your tank can support them. I recently put a hairy rhodactis mushroom, GSP and a zoa frag in my new 10 gallon build at around the 2 month mark and they're doing well. Slow and steady in this hobby. Slow and steady.

Ok so what can I do to fix. Hi and low params ?

Ph 8.16

Magnesium 1120 ( a bit low)

Alk 10.4

Calcium 523 (High)


Nitrate too high to be recorded. So it’s well over 75 (blinking 75 on my Hanna)

Phosphate 2.5. (High no?)

 

[GARRIGA]

We might be overthinking this. I know I do. Yet Thai inspires me. Although in the 80/90s it wasn’t far from this although did wait for cycling to complete.

 

[muzikalmatt]

Ok so what can I do to fix. Hi and low params ?

Ph 8.16

Magnesium 1120 ( a bit low)

Alk 10.4

Calcium 523 (High)


Nitrate too high to be recorded. So it’s well over 75 (blinking 75 on my Hanna)

Phosphate 2.5. (High no?)

Alkalinity and calcium will come down on their own over time, so don't worry about those. The bigger issues are your nitrates and phosphates. Is it 2.5 ppm phosphate (parts per million)? If so, that is incredibly high! It should be more like 0.05-0.15 ppm.

If you're able, I'd recommend doing larger, frequent water changes (like 20-25% every other day) to get those numbers back down to reasonable levels. Although that's difficult to do with a larger tank.

What kind of filtration are you running? If you can increase your filtration (more skimming, longer refugium lighting, etc) that can help as well but it will take some time to get those levels down given how high they are.

 

[frankieg2293]

We might be overthinking this. I know I do. Yet Thai inspires me. Although in the 80/90s it wasn’t far from this although did wait for cycling to complete.

Alkalinity and calcium will come down on their own over time, so don't worry about those. The bigger issues are your nitrates and phosphates. Is it 2.5 ppm phosphate (parts per million)? If so, that is incredibly high! It should be more like 0.05-0.15 ppm.

If you're able, I'd recommend doing larger, frequent water changes (like 20-25% every other day) to get those numbers back down to reasonable levels. Although that's difficult to do with a larger tank.

What kind of filtration are you running? If you can increase your filtration (more skimming, longer refugium lighting, etc) that can help as well but it will take some time to get those levels down given how high they are.

It is ppm looks like I’m going to need to buy more salt lol already did 2 water changes. In the last 2 weeks. It def brought ammonia down . I’ll keep doing water changes. It looks like that’s the best way. I just started vodka dosing yesterday should I keep that up ? I am def doing it the right way and am very careful with amounts I am putting in.

 

[Stigigemla]

If You have nitrite in Your tank the nitrate value shown is many times higher then the real value.
I expect Your measured nitrate value to go down to under 5 when the cycling is complete. Without water changes.

What You should do is to try to take the fishes back to the shop and give the tank a chance to start properly.

When it is cycled it is best to take down the phosphate before adding animals.
Your Phosphate value is probably correct. It is not unusual to get so high or even higher values with stones from a neglected tank.

 

[frankieg2293]

If You have nitrite in Your tank the nitrate value shown is many times higher then the real value.
I expect Your measured nitrate value to go down to under 5 when the cycling is complete. Without water changes.

What You should do is to try to take the fishes back to the shop and give the tank a chance to start properly.

When it is cycled it is best to take down the phosphate before adding animals.
Your Phosphate value is probably correct. It is not unusual to get so high or even higher values with s

If You have nitrite in Your tank the nitrate value shown is many times higher then the real value.
I expect Your measured nitrate value to go down to under 5 when the cycling is complete. Without water changes.

What You should do is to try to take the fishes back to the shop and give the tank a chance to start properly.

When it is cycled it is best to take down the phosphate before adding animals.
Your Phosphate value is probably correct. It is not unusual to get so high or even higher values with stones from a neglected tank.

i bought the tank from a friend he had the tank running for 7 years. some of these fish are 7 years old. when transporting i took 75 percent of the water all the substrate sump everry thing came with me. that's why i dont know why the lvls are so high the tank has been cycled, NO? only thing i can think is i boiled dozens of fire worms in the rock to kill them and was not able to get the ones hiding inside the rocks out causing the nitrates and phosphate to shoot up.

 

[Stigigemla]

If You have heated the stones You have killed all the bacteria inside.
So You are staring with dead stone. A little bottle with bacteria can speed up the process a little bit.

 

[paul barker]

all the information you got is great but but two thing that will kill all your coral faster than all of them is lights and water flow on LPS tank to much light and water flow will kill them SPS tanks not a enough light or water flow will them mix reef you need to fine the happy medium just have fun and go slow

 

[The Farmer]

What type of salt are you using?
my opinion is turn the lights off, stop vodka dosing and add a bottle of beneficial bacteria let it work it’s way through a proper cycle for 2-4 months. The fish will be fine while your doing this.