What could possibly change in 10 years?

I think very few fundamental things have changed. Therefore, it's mostly the same.

My favorite book on reefing is still John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums", from 2000ish, and his "Saltwater Aquarium Models" (now on Kindle). Granted, he was ahead of its time, e.g. his advocacy of a sump system. But he was a real marine biologist who spent decades in aquarium retail and wholesale from the 70s to the 00s - so he'd seen a lot.....



Everything from before still works the same as it used to. It's just some things now work better than others from before.

That being said, a lot of "changes" are driven either by things going out of fashion (DSBs in the DT is a great example), in things that companies want to push, and by factors that have changed the overall market.

However, some things stay in, or come out of and return into, fashion. For instance, people wrote about basically the triton method in the 00s, several times. The triton method adds better (proprietary and expensive, but very good) testing, and their own (proprietary and expensive, but allegedly very good) trace elements supplementation.

But, if you know what you're doing, there are now more good options to help manage your tank, and if something worked well before it still works. For instance, very few people use HOB power filters or undergravel filters anymore. BUT, in some instances, a HOB filter makes sense; Seachem makes a very good and suitable one, especially for a sumpless tank. And @PaulB the great makes a good case for a reverse undergravel filter. :) These don't suit everyone, but they are things that wold be good to understand and choose from.

Changes have generally been evolutionary, just evolutionary, and only in some areas.


My thoughts, in mostly no order:

Live rock - this is a big change. Instead of importing all kinds of rock from all over the Pacific, dry rock has taken over most LFS'. It is the staple of the big online vendors. This rock is easier to aquascape; and if I used this I'd definitely spend the time to drill/chisel/etc to make it exactly what I wanted. It's also cheaper, I think, than previous pacific live rock. However,it has disadvantages which you can read on the boards - which often echo John Tullock's cautions about this kind of rock from a decade ago. (as an aside, there are several companies which do "bacteria in a bottle" treatments for this kind of rock now)

One thing I'd avoid, honestly, is "Real Reef Rock" which is somewhat common online and very common at LFS. This is a purple painted cement-type thing that's been in water long enough to have nitrifying bacteria from the manufacturer. I've found it to be heavy, and allegedly it's not very porous for denitrifying bacteria. It's also about as expensive as real aquaculutred live rock. That being said, sometimes they have useful or neat shapes, one reason I might use it.

Even places that sell aquacultured live rock - from Miami/the Keys (KP aquatics and ARC reef. KP by itself is a small change to an old thing: it was run very well as SeaLife INC for many decades by the current owner's father), from Tampa (Tampa Bay Saltwater's customer service is excellent. He's on the forums as @liverock) and Fiji (walt Smith used to sell it). None of them get their products into retail stores anymore, as far as I've seen.

I would go dry rock or aquacultured rock from Florida.

GFO - I think we see more people using GFO to contain phosphates now instead of macroalgae refugia.

Dosing - where IIRC Tullock said "just run kalkwasser", kalkwasser is now a bit out of fashion. Instead, we have all kinds of fancy and not so fancy (e.g. BRS two part) dosing systems to do the same things. This IMO is one change; dosing is now more precise, making SPS growth easier and more reliable.

More completely captive grown fish and corals - I think captive bred fish are maybe around 30-50% of the market now (especially beginner fish like clowns), and captive bred corals probably the majority. The ability to grow corals in your own tanks has led to a bit of a celebrity coral effect (i.e. the most colorful coral specimens being widely available as frags). It also has made it easy to enter the coral sale market; fortunately captive grown frags do well in aquaria and so I think they've come to dominate the market due to just the sheer supply. Further, as of last year, the mariculture businesses has ended in Fiji and is on hold in Indonesia. Wild collection is also more difficult in many places. Fortunately some forms of fish can be efficiently bred for the aquarium market - the work of ORA and Biota are great examples.

LEDs - a potentially more energy efficient and controllable form of lighting compared to what we had previously. Some say they're great. Some insist on old school T5s and Metal Halides. Regardless, IMO this is the way to go, for me. I never liked the idea of metal halides and the gigantic, hot bulbs. When I decided to get back into the hobby and saw a Kessil, and I was instantly sold

Cheap made in china stuff - Jebao, as well as a few other manufacturers selling by ebay or "fulfilled by amazon", have set the bottom of prices for the market. Sometimes the quality is not so good. Other times, the brand is the house brand of the same factory that subcontracts for Marineland, etc. so the quality is not bad. YMMV. Jebao I'm told is not highly reliable, but for the price they're quite good. If you want basic stuff at low prices, and are willing to risk the occasional dud, (and accept these these are basically disposable; use once and they're gone) these can be a good deal.

ATOs - these are very common now, and for the better.


However, there are three big changes, in my opinion:

Newer nitritifcation and denitrification means - Now there are lots of artificial materials that are effective means to do both of these tasks instead of live rock- Seachem matrix is the one I use; I've also used Marinepure but there's a lot of cautions about it. There are also plenty of other such materials.

Live rock, IMO, instead of being the primary filter is now supplemental, or can be purely decorative in theory. So, you can use less, giving all kinds ideas for interesting aquascapes compared to the old walls of rock. I'm not even sure that the "1-2 lbs of live rock/gallon" rule was ever accurate.

Wavemakers - software automation of DC pumps has opened many new flow possibilities, - to include the Maxspect gyre, Ecotech MP10/40/60 series, and the tunze wavebox. Instead of constant flow or control boxes, you can set several different patterns on all these controllers. We're not at the point where the amount of flow is similar to the ocean, but still these are much better I think for coral growth.

Computers - i'll end with this because I think this is the by biggest, most revolutionary change. The common use of small computers to control your tank gives unprecedented power in the hands of aquarists. Automatic dosing, temperature/pH/salinity monitoring (which granted I'm not convinced is useful), precise control of lights and wavemakers.

The coral spawning efforts in London and at the Steinhart Aquarium are both IIRC run by apex (Neptune even has a promotional plug at the Steinhart). There is no way they could run their systems without it; lights and all that are carefully timed with the apex.
 
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Ok a little update ..I really don't like the look of my rock so I just went online and purchased 30 pounds of Live Rock from KP Aquatics so I am hoping for a little more life ..lol we will see how it goes...
 
I have taken your advice and am now going back a step and I ordered the aq
I think very few fundamental things have changed. Therefore, it's mostly the same.

My favorite book on reefing is still John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums", from 2000ish, and his "Saltwater Aquarium Models" (now on Kindle). Granted, he was ahead of its time, e.g. his advocacy of a sump system. But he was a real marine biologist who spent decades in aquarium retail and wholesale from the 70s to the 00s - so he'd seen a lot.....



Everything from before still works. It just some things now work better than others from before.

That being said, a lot of "changes" are driven either by things going out of fashion (DSBs in the DT is a great example), in things that companies want to push, and by factors that have changed the overall market.

However, some things stay in, or come out of and return into, fashion. For instance, people wrote about basically the triton method in the 00s, several times. The triton method adds better (proprietary and expensive, but very good) testing, and their own (proprietary and expensive, but allegedly very good) trace elements supplementation.

But, if you know what you're doing, there are now more good options to help manage your tank, and if something worked well before it still works. For instance, very few people use HOB power filters or undergravel filters anymore. BUT, in some instances, a HOB filter makes sense; Seachem makes a very good and suitable one, especially for a sumpless tank. And @PaulB the great makes a good case for a reverse undergravel filter. :) These don't suit everyone, but they are things that wold be good to understand and choose from.

Changes have generally been evolutionary, just evolutionary, and only in some areas.


My thoughts, in mostly no order:

Live rock - this is a big change. Instead of importing all kinds of rock from all over the Pacific, dry rock has taken over most LFS'. It is the staple of the big online vendors. This rock is easier to aquascape; and if I used this I'd definitely spend the time to drill/chisel/etc to make it exactly what I wanted. It's also cheaper, I think, than previous pacific live rock. However,it has disadvantages which you can read on the boards - which often echo John Tullock's cautions about this kind of rock from a decade ago. (as an aside, there are several companies which do "bacteria in a bottle" treatments for this kind of rock now)

One thing I'd avoid, honestly, is "Real Reef Rock" which is somewhat common online and very common at LFS. This is a purple painted cement-type thing that's been in water long enough to have nitrifying bacteria from the manufacturer. I've found it to be heavy, and allegedly it's not very porous for denitrifying bacteria. It's also about as expensive as real aquaculutred live rock. That being said, sometimes they have useful or neat shapes, one reason I might use it.

Even places that sell aquacultured live rock - from Miami/the Keys (KP aquatics and ARC reef. The former is a small change: it was run very well as SeaLife INC by the current owner's father), from Tampa (Tampa Bay Saltwater's customer service is excellent. he's on the forums as @liverock) and Fiji (walt Smith used to sell it) don't get their product into retail stores anymore, as far as I've seen.

I would go dry rock or aquacultured rock from Florida.

GFO - I think we see more people using GFO to contain phosphates now instead of macroalgae refugia.

Dosing - where IIRC Tullock said "just run kalkwasser", kalkwasser is now a bit out of fashion. Instead, we have all kinds of fancy and not so fancy (e.g. BRS two part) dosing systems to do the same things.

More completely captive grown fish and corals - the ability to grow corals in your own tanks has led to a bit of a celebrity coral effect (i.e. the most colorful coral specimens being widely available as frags). It also has made it easy to enter the coral sale market; fortunately captive grown frags do well in aquaria and so I think they've come to dominate the market due to just the sheer supply. Further, as of last year, the mariculture businesses has ended in Fiji and on hold in Indonesia. Wild collection is also more difficult in many places. Fortunately some forms of fish can be efficiently bred for the aquarium market - the work of ORA and biota are great examples.

LEDs - a potentially more energy efficient and controllable form of lighting compared to what we had previously. Some say they're great. Some insist on old school T5s and Metal Halides. Regardless, IMO this is the way to go, for me. I never liked the idea of metal halides and the gigantic, hot bulbs. When I decided to get back into the hobby and saw a Kessil, and I was instantly sold

Cheap made in china stuff - Jebao, as well as a few other manufacturers selling by ebay and "fulfilled by amazon", have set the bottom of prices for the market. Sometimes the quality is not so good. Other times, the brand is the house brand of the same factory that subcontracts for Marineland, etc. so the quality is not bad. YMMV. Jebao I'm told is not highly reliable, but for the price they're quite good. If you want basic stuff at low prices, and are willing to risk the occasional dud, (and accept these these are basically disposable; use once and they're gone) these can be a good deal.

ATOs - these are very common now, and for the good.

Newer nitritifcation and denitrification means - this I think is the third biggest change. Now there are lots of artificial materials that are effective means to do both of these tasks instead of live rock- Seachem matrix is the one I use; I've also used Marinepure but there's a lot of cautions about it. There are also plenty of other such materials.

Live rock, IMO, instead of being the primary filter is now supplemental, or can be purely decorative in theory. So, you can use less, giving all kinds ideas for interesting aquascapes compared to the old walls of rock. I'm not even sure that the "1-2 lbs of live rock/gallon" rule was ever accurate.

Wavemakers - this I think is the second largest change. software automation of DC pumps has opened many new flow possibilities, - to include the Maxspect gyre, Ecotech MP10/40/60 series, and the tunze wavebox. Instead of constant flow or control boxes, you can set several different patterns on all these controllers. We're not at the point where the amount of flow is similar to the ocean, but still these are much better I think for coral growth.

Computers - i'll end with this because I think this is the by biggest, most revolutionary change. The common use of small computers to control your tank gives unprecedented power in the hands of aquarists. Automatic dosing, temperature/pH/salinity monitoring (which granted I'm not convinced is useful), precise control of lights and wavemakers.

The coral spawning efforts in London and at the Steinhart Aquarium are both IIRC run by apex (Neptune even has a promotional plug at the Steinhart). There is no way they could run their systems without it; lights and all that are carefully timed with the apex.
uacul rock from florida
 
I have taken your advice and am now going back a step and I ordered the aquacul rock from florida

Sounds good! I'd like to hear your results; either in this thread or (maybe better) the other kpaquatics rock thread in this general discussion subforum. I'm going to do this for my next tank.
 
Ok just made my own reactor for Carbon !! Cost me about 14 bucks!! Without pump
A6CFC6F3-8CB1-482C-9F44-AFA42B56615C.jpeg
 
Ok just made my own reactor for Carbon !! Cost me about 14 bucks!! Without pump
A6CFC6F3-8CB1-482C-9F44-AFA42B56615C.jpeg
That looks pretty good!

And you don't need a separate pump for that. Just run a off of the return pump to it. That's one less thing you have to plug in!!
 
I actually am running another pump that will be running two of these reactors..Prob at 200 gallons each through them..
 
Hello everyone! I would like to start off with OMG everything has changed in 10 years! I had a pretty cool setup 10 years ago . Built almost everything myself and now I am just starting back in to this hobby and I am lost ! Now there is fake rock and rock that’s not rock but made to look like rock you can’t get live rock but there is abundance of dry rock and FILTER SOCKS ? Lol as I read everything once again it is like starting off brand new.. I am hoping to get right back in to this hobby full steam with the help of you fine folks here! I just bought a Red Sea reefer 170 and am awaiting arrival so I will have a lot of questions as I set everything up!
LOL I know I know and I no.
I started in the late '70's and only had success when I started a planted FW tank with no filter and no water changes. It was based on an article in Freshwater and marine aquariums magazine titled "some new (or are they old) thoughts on aquarium keeping". Kinda like rediscovering older methods. Marine tanks were encouraged to grow algae and algae was considered the sign of a healthy tank.

I would go with your gut and duplicate as much as possible your success years ago.

That said I first started posting back in 2003 when DSBs were all the rage and the in thing. Then after a few years surfaced reports of DSBs crashing after 5 years or so. Then people started returning to refugiums with macro algae.

With the repeating your success from before, I would just add that I prefer to start the system with a refugium with macro algae right from the start. Get the algae thriving (about a week or so) then add a few male mollies. And don't add food for a week. then start feeding a single flake per molly per day. When you get the mollies to live for a few weeks, the tank should be good to go for the more expensive marine only fish.

For corals the leds lights do seem to help and are expensive. For the macro algae in the refugium, cheapie led spot grow lights ~50 watts at $20 or so seem to do very well.

For dosing read dr randy holmes Farley's improved diy two part system in the chemistry section. It uses very inexpensive materials to maintain calcium, mag and alk.

FWIW as you experienced with FW nitrates, water changes will limit but not maintain tank conditions. By contrast with plants nitrates are undetectable and with dosing calcium, mag, and alk are maintained with no water changes.

Best tank ever. Enjoy.

my .02
 
Welcome back
15 year hiatus for me ...
I The read forums and watched so much YouTube ... My head was spinning for weeks ...
 
WELCOME BACK! I was right where you were three months ago. 13 years out of the hobby. RESEARCH and then research some more. Things have changed but so much remains the same. The best thing that I did was set up a Neptune Apex. Hi-Tech version of timers with soooo much more flexibility and control. All the rest of my system is the same sans LED lighting. I still have my MH fixtures if need be but so far so good and the control of the LED's I have with the Apex controller is phenomenal. Switches to control skimmer collection container, leak detection, water level maintenance and alarms and emails from/about my system, light & powerhead control, ATO control & redundancies, flow and return control, heat and cooling control, dosing control, calcium reactor control and the list goes on. I was very apprehensive about adding a controller and there was a bit of a learning curve but man, what a difference. My best advice, get a controller and controller controlled ATO. My research kept leading me back to the Apex as my controller. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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In a display tank ? Wow just seems like a weird look
WAYYY back when I had a DSB and then after a few years was having nutrient issues and switched to a bare bottom. The look is... different. I will never go back and when I started my tank again I went bare bottom again. I just siliconed black HDPE sheets to protect against any rock-fall. It gets covered in coralline algae anyhow.
DSCN2704.JPG
 
WELCOME BACK! I was right where you were three months ago. 13 years out of the hobby. RESEARCH and then research some more. Things have changed but so much remains the same. The best thing that I did was set up a Neptune Apex. Hi-Tech version of timers with soooo much more flexibility and control. All the rest of my system is the same sans LED lighting. I still have my MH fixtures if need be but so far so good and the control of the LED's I have with the Apex controller is phenomenal. Switches to control skimmer collection container, leak detection, water level maintenance and alarms and emails from/about my system, light & powerhead control, ATO control & redundancies, flow and return control, heat and cooling control, dosing control, calcium reactor control and the list goes on. I was very apprehensive about adding a controller and there was a bit of a learning curve but man, what a difference. My best advice, get a controller and controller controlled ATO. My research kept leading me back to the Apex as my controller. Good luck and keep us posted.

One of the first things I had purchased was the Apex awesom system!!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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