What is this growing algae cyano stuff

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Help me identify this awful stuff. Running a skimmer and GFO. Seemed to get worse in the weeks after installing GFO but I also got a new Kessil ap700 at the same time so it might have just been the extra light. 140 gal tank 40 gal sump. About to drop $$$ on UV. I did the paper towel dino test. Doesn't seem to be that. I can borrow a lab quality microscope from a friend if needed. Nothing seems to eat it not the tang the blenny or the clean up crew they just go around it
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Paper towel test after an hour at the bottom of the glass. Formed together.

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The one on the rocks seems to be algae the one on the sand could be Dinos. Get a microscope to ID it.
 
The one on the rocks seems to be algae the one on the sand could be Dinos. Get a microscope to ID it.
On the sand bed I can almost scoop it up like it forms a mat just under the top of the sand... If that helps.
 
On the sand bed I can almost scoop it up like it forms a mat just under the top of the sand... If that helps.
Well it is characteristic of cyano and Dino too so you will need a microscope to be sure. There is more than 1 stains of Dinos so to treat it you will need a positive ID
 
Well it is characteristic of cyano and Dino too so you will need a microscope to be sure. There is more than 1 stains of Dinos so to treat it you will need a positive ID
Ok... I'll get ahold of a microscope hopefully tomorrow. I'll post back. Thanks!
 
ID help? Reddish circles that move around. Look like they have a hole in the middle of the circle.
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Another pic
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Last picture is dinos, my be amphidium. Do they look like they have a small hook / c shaped tail at the end of their body?
 
Don´t do water changes. Increase nitrate and fosfate. Get a UV light.
 
agreed on amphidinium. Don't see others I can be sure of
 
The HA was consuming nutrients, then you added GFO on top of that. With both HA and GFO stripping the water of nutrients the dinos set in. I'd remove the GFO, start the manual process of removing HA daily. Since they are covered in dinos cuc won't touch it yet. I'd recommend you do a black out for the HA, it will also kick back the dinos some but get that UV installed first before blackout. We need to get ahead of the dinos so HA can be controlled with cuc. You may need to add po4 and no3 to your water. W/C are not an issue as long as nutrient levels are existent.
What are your readings currently?
 
Readings were at basically 0. I shut off GFO and skimmer about 4 days ago. Haven't retested yet. Ordering UV today. As fair as the hair algae I cut back feeding and the algea was dramatically cleaned (eaten) up except for 2 spots in the tank where nothing will touch it. Assuming those are the spots with dinos in it.
 
To increase the NO3 and PO4 you should feed more in spite of reducing it. As BMwm235 says, first you have to deal with the dinos. Good step buying the UV light.
I tend to encourage dosing no3 and po4 rather than feeding more to increase to avoid the detritus waste.
Readings were at basically 0. I shut off GFO and skimmer about 4 days ago. Haven't retested yet. Ordering UV today. As fair as the hair algae I cut back feeding and the algea was dramatically cleaned (eaten) up except for 2 spots in the tank where nothing will touch it. Assuming those are the spots with dinos in it.
I'd recommend dosing no3 / po4 before feeding to increase. The uneaten food will create detritus which adds to the mess. Skip that stage and go right to the free floating no3 and po2 which can be consumed and measured much quicker. Feed fish as much as they will eat, you can increase feedings but still feed as they eat. Let their poop add to the water column. If you decide to use any bacteria remember they will also consume nutrients which makes the dinos happy.
 

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