What is this plant?
- Thread starter TikiBird
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Bryo I can do, broken gifs, now that's unacceptable!
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TikiBird
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
OP
OP
TikiBird
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Yes! I need a reef friend. I’m pretty sure everyone else is getting tired of hearing about my tank. [emoji23]
Rip Van Winkle
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Is that really J-Lo? I didn't recognize her. dang.
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TikiBird
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Okay guys, so I’ve got the flucanazole and I’m going to try using it on this bryopsis.
A problem is that I just tested and my nitrates are high again! Ugh. I don’t know if I’m still feeding too much or what. My numbers (using API) are:
Temp: 78
Salinity: 1.024
pH: 8.2
Am: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 20-40
Calcium: 420
Phosphate: 0
dKH: 11 / KH: 196.9
I’m about to do a 25% water change.
My question is, do I need to get the nitrates lower (do more water changes) before I use the flucanazole, since it will raise them even more as the bryopsis dies? Or does it not raise them that high?
Thanks for any advice!
A problem is that I just tested and my nitrates are high again! Ugh. I don’t know if I’m still feeding too much or what. My numbers (using API) are:
Temp: 78
Salinity: 1.024
pH: 8.2
Am: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 20-40
Calcium: 420
Phosphate: 0
dKH: 11 / KH: 196.9
I’m about to do a 25% water change.
My question is, do I need to get the nitrates lower (do more water changes) before I use the flucanazole, since it will raise them even more as the bryopsis dies? Or does it not raise them that high?
Thanks for any advice!
OP
OP
TikiBird
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I think I’m going to see how the tank does for a couple days and change some water again before adding the flucanazole. Hope it helps!
Don’t sweat the numbers. If the numbers go up a bit , your softies will just get a bit fatter.
OP
OP
TikiBird
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Thank you as always @Katrina71 and @saltyfilmfolks!
The only solutions I think of on my own for any problems with my fishkeeping are water changes and adding an airstone. Beyond that, I’ve got nothing. [emoji23]
The only solutions I think of on my own for any problems with my fishkeeping are water changes and adding an airstone. Beyond that, I’ve got nothing. [emoji23]
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Tiki
Why haven’t you test rocked your algae yet
You have the easiest algae to beat I’ve seen. No fluc, no external lucky locus of fix required. You can have the algae beaten within about two days by simply killing it and rinsing out your sandbed.
The test rock is just that, before we fix your whole tank we use a tiny test portion to prove receptivity in your target. Have you seen our 200 pages of algae correction threads?
When we state a tank can be fixed by a certain date, it gets that way
Can spot an easy fix a mile away. Test isn’t even needed...it’s just a method for showing any doubts/invaded conditions that the certain species of invader are easy to fix before we kill it all. Lemme know, it takes two days.
Things you add or do to the water affect your non targets, and corals should command your nutrient levels, not what it takes to starve algae that already adapted to oligotrophic conditions in the wild. we don’t use indirect actions in our threads, we do opposite. It’s better you turn this around without fluconazole, you’ll see how easy it is to opt out of an invasion and fluc only works on a handful of genera...this kill practice works on all.
The only reason your tank has this algae is due to lack on grazers, in nature it grows the same if we boxed off grazers from a perfect reef, studies show on google scholar. We become smart grazers in our threads of cured tank after pics.
You need to rinse the whole sandbed because this is a nano, there’s a thread on that with before and afters, and because that’s your fuel source given your topoff water is accounted for.
You have simple, easy, fixable on dec 3 algae to beat.
Dinos would be much worse here
A neat new theory we are testing is that all nanos can be invasion free, if they have access to all substrates due to such an easy tank size. We didn’t need to know any other details about the invasion other than knowing if it’s a nano or a large tank.
I don't mind one bit if you don't want to run the method, I remember offering it in prior posts. Not a prob, but if you change mind and want to test our ability to generate solid outcome pics, let's do!
Why haven’t you test rocked your algae yet
You have the easiest algae to beat I’ve seen. No fluc, no external lucky locus of fix required. You can have the algae beaten within about two days by simply killing it and rinsing out your sandbed.
The test rock is just that, before we fix your whole tank we use a tiny test portion to prove receptivity in your target. Have you seen our 200 pages of algae correction threads?
When we state a tank can be fixed by a certain date, it gets that way
Can spot an easy fix a mile away. Test isn’t even needed...it’s just a method for showing any doubts/invaded conditions that the certain species of invader are easy to fix before we kill it all. Lemme know, it takes two days.
Things you add or do to the water affect your non targets, and corals should command your nutrient levels, not what it takes to starve algae that already adapted to oligotrophic conditions in the wild. we don’t use indirect actions in our threads, we do opposite. It’s better you turn this around without fluconazole, you’ll see how easy it is to opt out of an invasion and fluc only works on a handful of genera...this kill practice works on all.
The only reason your tank has this algae is due to lack on grazers, in nature it grows the same if we boxed off grazers from a perfect reef, studies show on google scholar. We become smart grazers in our threads of cured tank after pics.
You need to rinse the whole sandbed because this is a nano, there’s a thread on that with before and afters, and because that’s your fuel source given your topoff water is accounted for.
You have simple, easy, fixable on dec 3 algae to beat.
Dinos would be much worse here
A neat new theory we are testing is that all nanos can be invasion free, if they have access to all substrates due to such an easy tank size. We didn’t need to know any other details about the invasion other than knowing if it’s a nano or a large tank.
I don't mind one bit if you don't want to run the method, I remember offering it in prior posts. Not a prob, but if you change mind and want to test our ability to generate solid outcome pics, let's do!
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Also
You are working with better rock than most, with coralline. Using test rocks to practice working around the coralline is a handy handy trait of test rocking to beat an invasion, we act solely on the targets and your tank is turned out all fixed w coralline still in place.
You are working with better rock than most, with coralline. Using test rocks to practice working around the coralline is a handy handy trait of test rocking to beat an invasion, we act solely on the targets and your tank is turned out all fixed w coralline still in place.
OP
OP
TikiBird
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Tiki
Why haven’t you test rocked your algae yet
You have the easiest algae to beat I’ve seen. No fluc, no external lucky locus of fix required. You can have the algae beaten within about two days by simply killing it and rinsing out your sandbed.
The test rock is just that, before we fix your whole tank we use a tiny test portion to prove receptivity in your target. Have you seen our 200 pages of algae correction threads?
When we state a tank can be fixed by a certain date, it gets that way
Can spot an easy fix a mile away. Test isn’t even needed...it’s just a method for showing any doubts/invaded conditions that the certain species of invader are easy to fix before we kill it all. Lemme know, it takes two days.
Things you add or do to the water affect your non targets, and corals should command your nutrient levels, not what it takes to starve algae that already adapted to oligotrophic conditions in the wild. we don’t use indirect actions in our threads, we do opposite. It’s better you turn this around without fluconazole, you’ll see how easy it is to opt out of an invasion and fluc only works on a handful of genera...this kill practice works on all.
The only reason your tank has this algae is due to lack on grazers, in nature it grows the same if we boxed off grazers from a perfect reef, studies show on google scholar. We become smart grazers in our threads of cured tank after pics.
You need to rinse the whole sandbed because this is a nano, there’s a thread on that with before and afters, and because that’s your fuel source given your topoff water is accounted for.
You have simple, easy, fixable on dec 3 algae to beat.
Dinos would be much worse here
A neat new theory we are testing is that all nanos can be invasion free, if they have access to all substrates due to such an easy tank size. We didn’t need to know any other details about the invasion other than knowing if it’s a nano or a large tank.
I don't mind one bit if you don't want to run the method, I remember offering it in prior posts. Not a prob, but if you change mind and want to test our ability to generate solid outcome pics, let's do!
Hi @brandon429! I have perused the giant thread before, but it kind of intimidates me. I’ll give it another read through.
I have a few questions to start:
So what exactly is involved in the test?
I actually would be totally open to rinsing sand if maybe I could also add new sand too. I was thinking I wanted to add a bit more sand anyway—every time I scoop up algae on the sand, I lose more and more of my sandbed!
For my top-off water, I have just been using distilled water in jugs from the store (Walmart, Target, grocery store, etc). How would I test if the distilled water is contributing to my trouble?
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I'd rather custom make you an approach anyway vs toiling through that much type it will be fun. Safety steps no rush.
Long response because I care about detail and not messing ya up
I recommend we do a tiered approach after testing the rock for algae compliance, for sure we can adjust your sand however we need.
First step so easy
Take out a rock you can get to and sit outside of tank on counter. Take note for future working if there's a cloud up under it when you lift it out.
With rock on surface, use a knife point, metal to score out a test area of the rock and dig pretty good. Try to find a non coralline area, though we eventually have to work on coralline as we take more action.
Your knife action makes the test area free of algae... Score and rinse the area with saltwater.
When that rock area is clean, use peroxide as the last spot treatment, dab or dropper it onto the cleaned areas and let sit about four minutes. Rinse off with saltwater, put rock back and we watch that area, see if you like it's clean behaviors compared to the rest.
This step with peroxide is burning any leftovers. Rasp really good in that one little area for the spots that look like the wiry algae areas. we are learning if it's growback characters are deep, or topical on the rock.
Lastly, pick another area non rasped area of the rock on some other area. We're testing the lowest work model in this mode. Coralline is likely to bleach a little in this test spot, it's not as targeted but a much easier work mode still likely to command a response.
take a mister bottle of peroxide and moist up an algae patch area, removing none of the algae, we're seeing how well it responds to simple spraying and I bet it will. Let sit good and wet w peroxide four minutes, then rinse and put back.
So far all we have done is nothing intensive, nothing of much risk at all. We can watch how those spots behave before upscaling, and we will actually know something about your invader before proceeding.
Long response because I care about detail and not messing ya up
I recommend we do a tiered approach after testing the rock for algae compliance, for sure we can adjust your sand however we need.
First step so easy
Take out a rock you can get to and sit outside of tank on counter. Take note for future working if there's a cloud up under it when you lift it out.
With rock on surface, use a knife point, metal to score out a test area of the rock and dig pretty good. Try to find a non coralline area, though we eventually have to work on coralline as we take more action.
Your knife action makes the test area free of algae... Score and rinse the area with saltwater.
When that rock area is clean, use peroxide as the last spot treatment, dab or dropper it onto the cleaned areas and let sit about four minutes. Rinse off with saltwater, put rock back and we watch that area, see if you like it's clean behaviors compared to the rest.
This step with peroxide is burning any leftovers. Rasp really good in that one little area for the spots that look like the wiry algae areas. we are learning if it's growback characters are deep, or topical on the rock.
Lastly, pick another area non rasped area of the rock on some other area. We're testing the lowest work model in this mode. Coralline is likely to bleach a little in this test spot, it's not as targeted but a much easier work mode still likely to command a response.
take a mister bottle of peroxide and moist up an algae patch area, removing none of the algae, we're seeing how well it responds to simple spraying and I bet it will. Let sit good and wet w peroxide four minutes, then rinse and put back.
So far all we have done is nothing intensive, nothing of much risk at all. We can watch how those spots behave before upscaling, and we will actually know something about your invader before proceeding.
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