What is wrong with my tank??
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and the skimmer too, hate to detail pick but I just saw it and it’s a minor zone of slicks and cell retention so cleaning it is in your favor. The insides if possible, it’s looking perfect so far
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Chris_Noles
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water is a tad milky because there is some sand in the water column and the front glass is super dirty but we are looking good so far
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How did sand / cloud get in vs complete clarity 110%?
it’ll settle overnite I bet. We covered test assessment from a clear glass of water before reassembly
minimum sand rinse 76-100 times shown in prep
carbon is ok, no purigen, we directly changed paths mid job. Lower light intensity, we had that detail linked from the sand rinse thread during prep, it’ll help reduce coral stress. If I could change one aspect of the job it would be a 110% clean sand rinse leaving zero cloud as the single most important part of the job
it’ll settle overnite I bet. We covered test assessment from a clear glass of water before reassembly
minimum sand rinse 76-100 times shown in prep
carbon is ok, no purigen, we directly changed paths mid job. Lower light intensity, we had that detail linked from the sand rinse thread during prep, it’ll help reduce coral stress. If I could change one aspect of the job it would be a 110% clean sand rinse leaving zero cloud as the single most important part of the job
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It was clean when I rinsed it who knows I’m too far in the process to go back now…
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In the disassembly pic above the glass looks hazy compared to vinegar cleaned like this below from prep
vs
what made your front pane hazy above while empty was it scratches or stuck sand on glass from lifting sand out along the front pane of glass? If so, that cloud may be suspended while the sand itself is clean. That may be the source of clouding
was the aquarium removed from it’s base and washed perfectly clear before sand went back in, that may be adding to the clouding after refill?
vs
what made your front pane hazy above while empty was it scratches or stuck sand on glass from lifting sand out along the front pane of glass? If so, that cloud may be suspended while the sand itself is clean. That may be the source of clouding
was the aquarium removed from it’s base and washed perfectly clear before sand went back in, that may be adding to the clouding after refill?
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Chris_Noles
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Combination of both, I have a strong pump that stirs up sand no matter how I angle the hose, the haze is almost gone as of now I’m putting in my fish and coral rnIn the disassembly pic above the glass looks hazy compared to vinegar cleaned like this below from prep
vs
what made your front pane hazy above while empty was it scratches or stuck sand on glass from lifting sand out along the front pane of glass? If so, that cloud may be suspended while the sand itself is clean. That may be the source of clouding
was the aquarium removed from it’s base and washed perfectly clear before sand went back in, that may be adding to the clouding after refill?
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I still think it'll be ok the carbon use is good. Also try and score about fifteen gallons of water matching temp and salinity for one more partial water change about 20 minutes after total reassembly, that's an ideal insurance counter move vs any doser at all. No prime, no bottle bac needed so far.
When pouring water back in, pour slowly across a rock top to break up the slow flow back in. That final change will export down by half that cloud then I'm not concerned.
When pouring water back in, pour slowly across a rock top to break up the slow flow back in. That final change will export down by half that cloud then I'm not concerned.
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I only have 5 gallons left, so I'll do a water change real quick in a minute, should I run my UV? I completely forgot if I should do that or not
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I'd leave uv off a while I still think it'll be ok. Use the five gallons change after total reassembly about ten minutes or so after all set. Try and get the rest asap. Tonite, or tomorrow if not possible tonite as that's the core offset move for the minor challenge.
About fifteen gallons total as final change shortly after reassembly when you can will do.
This big cleans really have a lot of variables to control agreed.
About fifteen gallons total as final change shortly after reassembly when you can will do.
This big cleans really have a lot of variables to control agreed.
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Will do thank you again for all the help and hopefully this works!!!
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I turned my lights out because the fish are freaking out, I'll post a pic in the AM but the water is clear from what I can tell after the water change
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Chris I agree it really is clear and with the fish making over nite not breathing at the surface, still positioned midwater even during the low oxygen point of each day, the recycle has been skipped fully, the danger time has passed its going to be fine now I’m happy for your reef there
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You had the toughest invasion in reefing we are only lucky if it stays gone in one pass, so the plan is siphon out any future growths with partial water changes no dosing, no parameter adjustments up or down, purely physical gardening to keep that super clean look in place
Being cloudless condition means future siphons or rock liftings to externally rinse off any accumulation wont send clouds welling around the tank like the prior condition, the tank is set for true clean access now that it’s zero detritus
Being cloudless condition means future siphons or rock liftings to externally rinse off any accumulation wont send clouds welling around the tank like the prior condition, the tank is set for true clean access now that it’s zero detritus
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people who study dinos invasions will be truly interested in seeing your updates/how fast it remasses if at all, there really is good science left to unveil here
you know why the dinos work thread is five hundred pages long, but not 500 pages of cures
because its such a serious problem all common methods used work 30% of the time for entrants, so they keep refining. the invasion is that pressing for the hobby.
you just used a method that nearly every dinos tank owner would never consider, so it doesnt get enough fair study.
whats the going rule in dinos threads: dont change water
well you went fifty steps beyond that here
can't wait to see how dinos enjoy being hammered back 99.87% all at once. all their community support: gone.
as a community they build thecate mass walls like spartan's phalanx defense
as a group stuck/adhered together, dinos can fight additives, recoup against parameter changes, be insulated against osmotic shocks.
but reduced to singulars/no connected mat peers--lone cells here and there, let's see.
*you may indeed be removing tiny tiny aggregates 2-3x a week to maintain the perfection condition, this is now the new work required for the toughest invasion in reefing but you get to enjoy your tank now and feed more, not less to the corals and fish. its really not a hideous risk, you'll never have a blanketed tank again you just solved the look of the system in one pass, nice to see your update recently.
but, after unlucking into the toughest invasion in reefing, you may not get total hands off reefing like a 15 year system enjoys, the price for dinos now rearranged may indeed be hands on 2-3x a week mat removal, 5 mins per interval for a couple gallons water each time-really small micro removal upkeeps.
its all the same physical export, now its broken up in partials vs huge massive jobs like above.
I give your system about 80% chance where it just runs as normal though, rip cleans have a very high incidence of compliance in outcome, across invasions since its such a drastic move.
at no time is any visual mass allowed to regain-problem solved. the # of times you must work to maintain the perfect condition above is a combined function of luck and skill.
prepare for three months of sustained micro removal presses if required. still working at week 2 does not mean it failed, you're beating down aggregate leftovers, over and over till they exhaust.
if you are still doing it at 90 days then you can consider the common dinos battles: additives and parameter testing and adjustment, the tedious stuff. you will be starting those methods in the clean vs invaded condition; they'll work better.
you know why the dinos work thread is five hundred pages long, but not 500 pages of cures
because its such a serious problem all common methods used work 30% of the time for entrants, so they keep refining. the invasion is that pressing for the hobby.
you just used a method that nearly every dinos tank owner would never consider, so it doesnt get enough fair study.
whats the going rule in dinos threads: dont change water
well you went fifty steps beyond that here
can't wait to see how dinos enjoy being hammered back 99.87% all at once. all their community support: gone.as a community they build thecate mass walls like spartan's phalanx defense
as a group stuck/adhered together, dinos can fight additives, recoup against parameter changes, be insulated against osmotic shocks.
but reduced to singulars/no connected mat peers--lone cells here and there, let's see.
*you may indeed be removing tiny tiny aggregates 2-3x a week to maintain the perfection condition, this is now the new work required for the toughest invasion in reefing but you get to enjoy your tank now and feed more, not less to the corals and fish. its really not a hideous risk, you'll never have a blanketed tank again you just solved the look of the system in one pass, nice to see your update recently.
but, after unlucking into the toughest invasion in reefing, you may not get total hands off reefing like a 15 year system enjoys, the price for dinos now rearranged may indeed be hands on 2-3x a week mat removal, 5 mins per interval for a couple gallons water each time-really small micro removal upkeeps.
its all the same physical export, now its broken up in partials vs huge massive jobs like above.
I give your system about 80% chance where it just runs as normal though, rip cleans have a very high incidence of compliance in outcome, across invasions since its such a drastic move.
at no time is any visual mass allowed to regain-problem solved. the # of times you must work to maintain the perfect condition above is a combined function of luck and skill.
prepare for three months of sustained micro removal presses if required. still working at week 2 does not mean it failed, you're beating down aggregate leftovers, over and over till they exhaust.
if you are still doing it at 90 days then you can consider the common dinos battles: additives and parameter testing and adjustment, the tedious stuff. you will be starting those methods in the clean vs invaded condition; they'll work better.
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