What is wrong with my tank??

[attiland]

people who study dinos invasions will be truly interested in seeing your updates/how fast it remasses if at all, there really is good science left to unveil here

you know why the dinos work thread is five hundred pages long, but not 500 pages of cures

because its such a serious problem all common methods used work 30% of the time for entrants, so they keep refining. the invasion is that pressing for the hobby.

you just used a method that nearly every dinos tank owner would never consider, so it doesnt get enough fair study.

whats the going rule in dinos threads: dont change water


well you went fifty steps beyond that here can't wait to see how dinos enjoy being hammered back 99.87% all at once. all their community support: gone.

as a community they build thecate mass walls like spartan's phalanx defense

as a group stuck/adhered together, dinos can fight additives, recoup against parameter changes, be insulated against osmotic shocks.

but reduced to singulars/no connected mat peers, let's see.

I find amusing how aggressively promoting your method. While I agree for small tanks like this can be rip cleaned but it is not always an option for bigger ones.

You also have to acknowledge that the fight is over when it is proven not coming back or new infestation can be fought off by the tanks microorganisms. we will see that in 3-6 months clean time.

I would also highlight the importance of both Dino treads. While you are not talking so highly of them they helped hundreds of people to deal with Dinos and shows that rip clean is not your only opinion and just like you said rip clean not necessary helps all stains too. And you just have to accept some people just don’t want to tear their tank apart for one reason or an another.

I honestly hope that all problems with the tank is now resolved. It is nice to see the tank sparkling clean. Well done @Chris_Noles and @brandon429

 

[brandon429]

Attiland

it saves time and money to remotely fix reef tanks, as you can see sales aint easy. the sale is the fact that traditional methods were killing his tank up to page 10. he was being sold hesitation

there is no point nor benefit in wrestling with nanos for months on end, they're instantly controllable overnite. its the most shocking breach of reef rules it really is, agreed. I cannot count the number of jobs that pattern out well, honestly the estimate is three thousand.


we had covered how rip cleans are the fewest in practice used in dinos evaluation, that's a considerable gradient we're working against. what if it winds up being the top control method for nanos

Chris commanded the tank back into compliance overnite.

 

[brandon429]

what we did to his tank is exactly what's required of any reef when its moving homes.

we do home moves, legitimate rip cleans, so that twenty thousand dollar 280 gallon sps reefs won't recycle at the new home using tap water on sand, saltwater on rocks, all new water pretty much as above

 

[Chris_Noles]

I was getting desperate and needed a solution and dumping more chemicals into the tank wasnt going to help. We will see what happens a couple months down the road.

 

[brandon429]

hey is it still pretty clean/clear

 

[Chris_Noles]

hey is it still pretty clean/clear

Crystal clear

 

[Chris_Noles]

So any remaining algae do I just pull off in the tank or what is the process?

 

[brandon429]

Yes agreed just have some gallons of change water handy and do one minute siphons if needed or if on rocks you can easily lift them out one at a time and clean off externally then set back in.


if you did that before the clean a huge cloud would mix around, now it’ll be clean with any direct access cleaning that may be required.

 

[Chris_Noles]

Yes agreed just have some gallons of change water handy and do one minute siphons if needed or if on rocks you can easily lift them out one at a time and clean off externally then set back in.


if you did that before the clean a huge cloud would mix around, now it’ll be clean with any direct access cleaning that may be required.

Do I do any more RO rinses to get the algae off or just scrub it in some tank water, I see a couple strands I missed

 

[brandon429]

for sure if you lifted out a rock singular to work it won’t matter either way. The others will handle the load shift easily and since we aren’t doing all of them at once no harm. nice catch on remaining strands that’s always possible in the big takedown reset up works

 

[Aqua Man]

Crystal clear

How’s the tank doing?

 

[Chris_Noles]

How’s the tank doing?

Still looking good, but I have some algae left on the rocks and my coral's aren't looking too hot, I might dip my corals and rescrub some of the rocks

 

[Chris_Noles]

 

[brandon429]

Chris that’s a shocking turnaround

your corals are all opened up brightly. It’s ideal as you are guiding out little growths towards perfection to do a few gallons water change to help export metabolites produced in the newly restored system, its like CPR compressions to do that in anticipation even though the water looks clear. Well done after pic thats a shocking change


its been a long time since we had a real dinos challenge for a rip clean

 

[brandon429]

Chris your documentation may end up becoming a lifeline to other nano tanks undergoing dinos, your updates will matter greatly on process verification.

since the going rule from the public is dont change water, this method isn't tested very well other than for home move settings where the rinses are always known as safe. applied for this use, your tank is among the very very few 100% dinos regenerations we have on file, its rare what you did here.

the public isn't right on the water change advice...they come from the angle of partial water changes. when pouring back in water over unprepped surfaces that mixes around dinos cells plus systemic waste, then it blooms dinos even worse and people link the water change to the bad outcome vs the masses left in tank to swirl


this method ejects all the mass, and changes the rules.

based on that picture above, we might could say that partial water changes are bad but 100% rip clean water changes, the total end of the water change extreme spectrum, are good. treating the nano as a whole all at once vs in parts like the masses do has appeal.

you can see some slicks forming at the top water line but this is expected and normal. proteins are being expressed from inside the rockwork like backup being cleared/these will be skimmed out in time but if there's no skimmer you really need about a ten gallon water change/you can leave animals in the tank now that its rinsed

pour slowly across a rock tip, to break up poured water. test a section of your sand by poking a stick into the corner and swirling it to get an idea of any clouding potential, before the water change.

those proteins aren't bad, they don't burn anything or the corals wouldn't be wide open hungry. the proteins break down and turn into green hair algae feed, so we want to remove them before that battle begins. there is some follow up work required after the rip clean and in your case its simple one more large water change a while after those expressed proteins had time to build up.

 

[Chris_Noles]

since the going rule from the public is dont change water, this method isn't tested very well other than for home move settings where the rinses are always known as safe. applied for this use, your tank is among the very very few 100% dinos regenerations we have on file, its rare what you did here.

the public isn't right on the water change advice...they come from the angle of partial water changes. when pouring back in water over unprepped surfaces that mixes around dinos cells plus systemic waste, then it blooms dinos even worse and people link the water change to the bad outcome vs the masses left in tank to swirl


this method ejects all the mass, and changes the rules.

based on that picture above, we might could say that partial water changes are bad but 100% rip clean water changes, the total end of the water change extreme spectrum, are good. treating the nano as a whole all at once vs in parts like the masses do has appeal.

you can see some slicks forming at the top water line but this is expected and normal. proteins are being expressed from inside the rockwork like backup being cleared/these will be skimmed out in time but if there's no skimmer you really need about a ten gallon water change/you can leave animals in the tank now that its rinsed

pour slowly across a rock tip, to break up poured water. test a section of your sand by poking a stick into the corner and swirling it to get an idea of any clouding potential, before the water change.

those proteins aren't bad, they don't burn anything or the corals wouldn't be wide open hungry. the proteins break down and turn into green hair algae feed, so we want to remove them before that battle begins. there is some follow up work required after the rip clean and in your case its simple one more large water change a while after those expressed proteins had time to build up.

So how do I get remaining algae off the corals and rocks? Should I dip my corals? Also do I just do a saltwater scrub of the rocks to get the remaining algae off?

 

[brandon429]

No dips

Yes remove rocks you can freshwater rinse them off again like before do one rock per day vs all at once. For future rinses after this one do saltwater so those communities build up on the rocks and eventual coralline

For spots on sandbed insert siphon hose do a few gallons water change.

No dips, those stress corals we're only a few days out past original run and since that wasn't reset fully clean, dinos were left in the tank vs totally removed, these catch up runs are needed. Do the large water change mentioned above

To get dinos off corals do rinses in saltwater in a large dish outside tank, no chemicals yet you need to do manual work for once in this system and maintain it a few weeks clean condition before changing pace. At least now your corals are open, happy, not smothered and the water will be very healthy after your next follow up big water change to remove protein slicks mentioned prior. The outcome here is positive in every way per pics.

change away from chemistry detailing, which constitutes the outcomes of pages 1-10, to physical control which has outcomes logged from page ten and beyond. minimum 6-8 weeks, if you want to see the power of this method run the new way for two months before veering... before testing for anything in your reef and then adding algae fertilizer. in four months, you don't want a GHA tank

anyone who studies dinos work threads sees those challenges coming, if we follow parameter chasing using non digital test kits. gha challenges usually, not rarely, follow dinos battles where chemistry tinkering using non digital kits was the main plan.



focus on feeding, direct export of invasion nets, water changes and physical work sustained for 6-8 weeks so that an opposite path is being exercised


at month two you can begin standard controls but two months of practice forced compliance in the reef tank will be a great fallback where needed.




we know how far those non digital test kits mislead in cycling, they mislead equally when reacting to nutrient params in challenge tanks. unless your nitrate and phosphate testers are digital and well-reviewed, don't rely on them much. many comparison threads exist for non digital kits; they're all over the place.

you get to back off when you have coralline covered rocks and sources for additions that do not bring in dinos.

 

[Aqua Man]

Just keep an eye on you nitrate and phosphate. Don’t want them to bottom out again.

How is your CUC?

Algae is going to grow in a healthy system. Coral and algae use the same nutrients. A good crew of snails will help keep it in check.

 

[Chris_Noles]

Just keep an eye on you nitrate and phosphate. Don’t want them to bottom out again.

How is your CUC?

Algae is going to grow in a healthy system. Coral and algae use the same nutrients. A good crew of snails will help keep it in check.

I have 4 astera snails and 3 hermit crabs

 

[Chris_Noles]

Would adding a chunk of “live” rock from my LFS help at all?