What r u all using your breakout boxes for?

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GnarleyMarley

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I just upgraded to the apex system, and have purchased a breakout box. My main purpose for the BOB is to cut my skimmer off when my skimm ate locker fills up. I'm sure their are limitless possibilities with the BOB. Down the Rd I may try to use it to help automate my auto water change system.

What do you use yours for? I would love to steal some of your ideas to get the most out of my investment :)
 
I used my BOB for Skimmate locker before (I dont have the room for one anymore) and I use it now, mostly for the pressure sensor on my ATO. I have a second pressure switch as a low level for the sump as well. I also plan on using it to make a simple on/off switch for the cabinet lights - assuming I ever get around to ordering the bits I need for it.
 
I just upgraded to the apex system, and have purchased a breakout box. My main purpose for the BOB is to cut my skimmer off when my skimm ate locker fills up. I'm sure their are limitless possibilities with the BOB. Down the Rd I may try to use it to help automate my auto water change system.

What do you use yours for? I would love to steal some of your ideas to get the most out of my investment :)

-sump level low (so the return doesn't run dry)
-display level high (to keep the floor dry)
-cabinet light (magnet switch to turn the lights on under the stand when the door is opened)
-skim locker (float switch to kill the skimmer and text me when it's full)
-flexible float switch (i put these in containers i'm filling up so when it trips it shuts the utility pump off...to keep the floor dry)
-i hooked up different switchees buttons and stuff to trigger different lights and feed modes too using virtual outlets as timers and control if then statments
 
-sump level low (so the return doesn't run dry)
-display level high (to keep the floor dry)
-cabinet light (magnet switch to turn the lights on under the stand when the door is opened)
-skim locker (float switch to kill the skimmer and text me when it's full)
-flexible float switch (i put these in containers i'm filling up so when it trips it shuts the utility pump off...to keep the floor dry)
-i hooked up different switchees buttons and stuff to trigger different lights and feed modes too using virtual outlets as timers and control if then statments

Wow! That's a lot. I love the idea of having a float switch in the display to prevent overflowing, and the same with the return section in the sump, I'll definitely be stealing those lol. About the undercabinet lights, what kind of magnetic switch did you use?


Also does anyone run a leak detector? If so what one ate u using?
 
Also does anyone run a leak detector? If so what one ate u using?

For leak detection I use Neptune's ALD module - a true godsend when I had my first tank failure in 40+ years of aquarium keeping about a year ago...

For my 2 breakout boxes:
3 ATOs (main display & 2 quarantine tanks)
High and low sump levels
Display high level (mounted in overflow box)
Skimmate high level
Salt mixing station low level (to shut-off circulating pump and continuous water change), and
Recently installed an Avast Marine Barrel Tender to increase RODI efficiency that uses 2 inputs for high and low levels
 
I purchased the Avast Marine DIY breakout box for a lot cheaper than the Neptune. I have a neptune controller, but this one is compatible so long as you get the 8 pin connection, also a break out box is a break out box. you just have to solder the connections yourself.
2 - leak detectors (off amazon, again saving big bucks)
1 - ATO sensor (also set neptune controller to shuf off return if this is on for too long, indicating the ato is not working so to protect return from running dry)
1 -Sump high level sensor (turn off auto top of if hits this sensor)

Leaving me with 2 more open for future upgrades. I like the cabinet lighting switch idea.
 
The Avast breakout boxes are the bomb! Easy to assemble as mentioned and they are flat out good people to deal with. I have 2.

No build thread on my mixing station. Nothing particularly special that hasn't been well documented before. Two 75 gallon tanks. RODI gravity feeds into the salt tank (fortunate to have tall ceilings in the basement). Circulation in the salt tank is handled by an older Pan World pump from the 'box-o-pumps' one collects over the years.

Continues water changes are handled by a Liter Meter III and slave as mentioned earlier and I have 3 Avast perastalitic pumps handling ATO duties. There is also a PM2 that monitors temperature and salinity in the salt tank.

Great thing about the APEX, you not only get level controls on both tanks, but I don't keep the circulation pump running 24/7. I have it come on a couple times a day for only 15 minutes to keep the water from becoming stagnant without having to churn through a lot of electricity.

M
 
thanks for the description of the h20 changer. I'm in the planning stages of my auto WC setup, and love getting input from others who are currently running one. As for the avast BOB, I had no idea that they made one for the apex, its about $4 more, but with the location of my bob it would be much easier to connect things with the spring loaded tabs. I'll definitely be looking in to getting one of them.

thanks for the tips guys, I'm off to amazon to check out leak detectors that I can hook up to my BOB!!!
 
I have a humidistat connected to mine to turn on my cabinet fans if the humidity gets too high in the sump area. Also, ATO low to shut off the pump. Sump low. And I think my next move is leak detector. I thought about using it to turn cabinet lighting on, but just went with a inexpensive door switch instead, does the same & keeps a bob port open for future expansion.
 
I use a float switch in the display.
The display level low indicates a return pump off or damaged so the program shuts down my chiller (to prevent it freeze), shuts down the CO2 injection (in my calcium reactor), shuts down my heater and send me an email alarm display level low. In the future I will install a cheap backup DC return pump and I will be able to turn it on remotely.

I also use 2 float switchs in my sump (low and max) so I always have a backup for my ATO.
 
I have a humidistat connected to mine to turn on my cabinet fans if the humidity gets too high in the sump area. Also, ATO low to shut off the pump. Sump low. And I think my next move is leak detector. I thought about using it to turn cabinet lighting on, but just went with a inexpensive door switch instead, does the same & keeps a bob port open for future expansion.

Wherected did u get the humidistat? That sounds awesome!
 
I purchased the Avast Marine DIY breakout box for a lot cheaper than the Neptune. I have a neptune controller, but this one is compatible so long as you get the 8 pin connection, also a break out box is a break out box. you just have to solder the connections yourself.
2 - leak detectors (off amazon, again saving big bucks)
1 - ATO sensor (also set neptune controller to shuf off return if this is on for too long, indicating the ato is not working so to protect return from running dry)
1 -Sump high level sensor (turn off auto top of if hits this sensor)

Leaving me with 2 more open for future upgrades. I like the cabinet lighting switch idea.[/QUOHello
I purchased the Avast Marine DIY breakout box for a lot cheaper than the Neptune. I have a neptune controller, but this one is compatible so long as you get the 8 pin connection, also a break out box is a break out box. you just have to solder the connections yourself.
2 - leak detectors (off amazon, again saving big bucks)
1 - ATO sensor (also set neptune controller to shuf off return if this is on for too long, indicating the ato is not working so to protect return from running dry)
1 -Sump high level sensor (turn off auto top of if hits this sensor)

Leaving me with 2 more open for future upgrades. I like the cabinet lighting switch idea.
Could you tell me what leak detector did you buy from amazon that I can use with my Apex? Thank you!
 
I use mine for my ATO and high water in the sump and as a high water turn off in my display ( I have a AIO that I converted to have a sump so the float is in the back behind the false wall) although I plan on getting a new tank soon.
I also use it for a cabinet light
 
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Hey I'm having a problem with my breakout box

I am using a switch simple on off switch to control my skimmer. So I can shut it off when I'm working on it.

every four mins it shuts off.

It's not the logic as I'm using the same as someone else's that works

So I think it is the switch does it have to be a special kind of switch?

Three pole instead of two I'm kinda stumped

Any help would be appreciated
 
Can u copy and paste your programing? It may just be worded incorrectly or missing a capital letter or somthing. Apex is awesome but very particular about wording & phrasing
 
No it's not that I really think my switch is wrong
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