What r u all using your breakout boxes for?

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No it's not that I really think my switch is wrong
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Forget the logic for now, just see if the switch is working. On your dash, can you see Sw2 switch open and close when you manually activate it?
 
Well there is a lag when using the iPhone and iPad fusion app so I can't tell

Even when I switch it on and off it takes a min or two for it to change on the dashboard.

And it happens fast every four mins I hear the click of the relay and then it clicks back on
 
-sump level low (so the return doesn't run dry)
-display level high (to keep the floor dry)
-cabinet light (magnet switch to turn the lights on under the stand when the door is opened)
-skim locker (float switch to kill the skimmer and text me when it's full)
-flexible float switch (i put these in containers i'm filling up so when it trips it shuts the utility pump off...to keep the floor dry)
-i hooked up different switchees buttons and stuff to trigger different lights and feed modes too using virtual outlets as timers and control if then statments
Can you share your settings for display tank and what switch are you using? Can put switch inside overflow so I can stop return pump when the water gets to high?
 
-sump level low (so the return doesn't run dry)
-display level high (to keep the floor dry)
-cabinet light (magnet switch to turn the lights on under the stand when the door is opened)
-skim locker (float switch to kill the skimmer and text me when it's full)
-flexible float switch (i put these in containers i'm filling up so when it trips it shuts the utility pump off...to keep the floor dry)
-i hooked up different switchees buttons and stuff to trigger different lights and feed modes too using virtual outlets as timers and control if then statments

Can you share the magnet switch you used?
 
High and low sump levels, high and low resovoir levels, high and low salt mixing levels, skimmer locker, cabinent doors, and one "oh crap" button.

I currently run 18 switches and 2 opticals, thats not counting the two opticals that came with my varios pumps.

I also run three leak detectors, one on each end of tank and one inside cabinet, but not on break out box, i use an ALD
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I use a door switch for cabinet lighting.
Low and high float switches. Low keeps the pump from running dry and my high switch turns skimmer off and ato. I have a tunze osmolator ato but this is just Incase that fails.
 
So if your Skimmer or return pump is ran off of the variable speed plug how would you program it to run at say 10% when the skimate locker is full and when the high sump sensor is closed?
 
So if your Skimmer or return pump is ran off of the variable speed plug how would you program it to run at say 10% when the skimate locker is full and when the high sump sensor is closed?

You have to create profiles. For example I have a profile that is “normal” this runs my pump at 90% and I have a “feed” profile that slows the pump down to 8%. You then Enter the code into the variable speed port. For example if sump hi float is closed then feed profile “feed”. I just did mine a few days a lot so I’m not a pro but I hope you get an idea. There isn’t much out there like a tutorial, I used the coral cue video and a few threads and pieced it together.
 
Thats a great idea to set a program to run keep skimmer running on low when locker is full rather than just turn off.

Too bad i don't use DC skimmer pump on my main tank!!!

Instead i just fully open the gate if ill be gone more than a couple days.
 
Thank you I figured this was the case I was hopeing it was something easier I to watched the coral vue video as I just hooked my varios speed port up

Thanks again
 
Can you share your settings for display tank and what switch are you using? Can put switch inside overflow so I can stop return pump when the water gets to high?

I use virtual outlets to trigger everything based on the switch and it makes it easier to comprehend.
92249f4b03221e3c1a9e65ce589ea5bd.jpg


1efdf8b70be4d26bffa16d2fdd136af9.jpg


My return pump is a jebao dc6000, and it goes off the triggered switches.
4de11b81a33f52edae2910213586090a.jpg


Here’s a pic of the float in my overflow.
7edae8499f1a53201a7657fba32eb02b.jpg
 
I've been meaning to use it for some DIY leak detectors but haven't gotten around to it. It just sits empty on the panel for now!
 
All fascinating... would like to see a build thread using specific components for a specific set of functions. Can any one point me to one?
Many thanks
 
I use virtual outlets to trigger everything based on the switch and it makes it easier to comprehend.
92249f4b03221e3c1a9e65ce589ea5bd.jpg


1efdf8b70be4d26bffa16d2fdd136af9.jpg


My return pump is a jebao dc6000, and it goes off the triggered switches.
4de11b81a33f52edae2910213586090a.jpg


Here’s a pic of the float in my overflow.
7edae8499f1a53201a7657fba32eb02b.jpg

Thank you, for the pictures this will help.
 
1) skimmer high float switch
2) skimmer prime float switch (kicks on a solenoid on my skimmer air line to prime it if it ever gets deprimed)
3) under cabinet lights/door switch
4) 6 toggle switches
5) push to feed switch
20171211_120354.jpg 20171211_120340.jpg
 
Just installed my fifth breakout box - 28 sensors and counting (not including the flow and optical sensors that connect to my three FFM boxes). BTW, big thumbs up for the build-it-yourself avast breakout boxes.
 

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