What RODI unit?

[KStatefan]

I wish my incoming water was that low.

Well that’s an awesome question. Can I test for this someway? I tested my tap water for nitrate and phosphate and they both came up with nothing. Also testing with a tds meter I am ranging between 32-37. Other than that I’m not sure what’s in it. I do smell a chlorine odor at times though.

With water that low in TDS I would look at decreasing the waste to good ratio. . I bet you could go down to a 2:1 ratio and not negatively affect the membrane. Talk to one of the filter companies.

 

[DarrenCar]

And I thought researching fish was complicated, lol.
If I want the duel membrane unit and I have less than 80 psi then I’m probably going to need a pump. The pump is 100 and the rodi unit is 250. That puts me ~100 over budget. Man my wife is gonna kill me....

 

[JoshH]

And I thought researching fish was complicated, lol.
If I want the duel membrane unit and I have less than 80 psi then I’m probably going to need a pump. The pump is 100 and the rodi unit is 250. That puts me ~100 over budget. Man my wife is gonna kill me....

Lol it can be quite the learning curve, though it seems like everything is in this hobby. Really you could run a Dual setup wih less than 80 PSI it's just really not ideal and your second membrane won't be functioning properly. Spectrapure offers a system with a 2:1 waste to product ratio but it's a little up there price wise.

You can always get one of the 75,90,100 4 stage units and add the second membrane down the road. When your wife sees how much water your pumping outside she will ask you if there is any way to reduce it and PRESTO! You got yourself another membrane and booster pump

 

[DarrenCar]

Well from just what I can look at while I’m working it looks like I could get the 100gpd brs value system add the water saver kit and that would be about 225 then 100 for the pump would Give me about 325 spent. That would probably work. I guess it would depend on the quality of the BRS value system though..

 

[JoshH]

Well from just what I can look at while I’m working it looks like I could get the 100gpd brs value system add the water saver kit and that would be about 225 then 100 for the pump would Give me about 325 spent. That would probably work. I guess it would depend on the quality of the BRS value system though..

With the Value system you need to add a PSI Gauge and a TDS Meter as well which will add another $50-75 depending on the Guages and meters you get so you will have to keep that in mind.

 

[DarrenCar]

Then the value plus would be the better option since it has those items included.

 

[JoshH]

Then the value plus would be the better option since it has those items included.

You got it

 

[Potatohead]

If you're only making ~20 gallons per week, 150 gpd is kind of a waste IMO, just get the 75. It also doesn't need as much pressure as the 150 unit, but more pressure is always good in either case. You don't really want to go more than a couple weeks between making water as you don't want your membrane to dry out so you would be better off using a lower flow unit and using it a bit more often, IMO.

 

[JoshH]

If you're only making ~20 gallons per week, 150 gpd is kind of a waste IMO, just get the 75. It also doesn't need as much pressure as the 150 unit, but more pressure is always good in either case. You don't really want to go more than a couple weeks between making water as you don't want your membrane to dry out so you would be better off using a lower flow unit and using it a bit more often, IMO.

100% Agree with you @Potatohead but I feel his desire has nothing to do with producing more water faster, just wasting less good water while doing it. He could go with a lower waste unit as I mentioned previously as another option or use the 75GPD and utilize a 3:1 Waste to product ratio, all are great options.

 

[Potatohead]

100% Agree with you @Potatohead but I feel his desire has nothing to do with producing more water faster, just wasting less good water while doing it. He could go with a lower waste unit as I mentioned previously as another option or use the 75GPD and utilize a 3:1 Waste to product ratio, all are great options.

Yeah if it were me I would use one membrane, 75-100 gpd membrane and run it at like 90 psi. That will significantly reduce the amount of time the unit needs to be on, which will reduce waste, and will extend DI resin life significantly.

 

[Ebslinger]

Just my 2 cents here, but I am running the 7 stage (75 gallons per day) from BRS with an incoming pressure of 40 psi. Total cost was about 350... a little over your budget maybe, but it works great, and have yet to have an issue.

 

[DarrenCar]

I definitely do not have a large water volume need past my initial tank fill. So your recommendation on the 75 gpd unit is spot on I agree. I am just a little confused about the mentioned lower waste unit. Is this a whole different setup or a different membrane? Producing water fast is not my concern I am just interested in reducing the amount of waste water I produce.

 

[Ebslinger]

Another Idea is using the waste water for an alternative use. Instead of sending it back down the drain.

I know some people simply plump the waste water outside to feed their plants or lawn... If you do that, there is not theoretical waste.

 

[DarrenCar]

Another Idea is using the waste water for an alternative use. Instead of sending it back down the drain.

I know some people simply plump the waste water outside to feed their plants or lawn... If you do that, there is not theoretical waste.

This is actually my plan to save it in a rain barrel but I am just looking to save on that production as well since we pay a water bill every month I don’t need the bill going through the roof. I’m a big penny pincher...

 

[Tautog]

Imo, a 4 stage R/O is all you need. Unless you live in Flint, or where your tap water stains and plumbing repairs are common with pipe replacement, then and only then would the 7-stage be necessary, but if the water is that bad, I would be moving. This Coralife unit is easy, does a great job. I change the filters every 2 yrs. I do 40 gal WC’s every 2 weeks, and have 5 - 5 gallon containers for extra water for evaporation and mixing. Over kill isn’t necessary here!

 

[Amps Reef Life]

I will HIGHLY recommend a BRS RODI unit. I would get the 4 or 5 stage based on your comments about how much water you will be making. I started out with the BRS super saver 4 stage upgraded that years ago and recently I bought the BRS supersaver 7 stage with the chloramine monster. I have been saving up to get the chloramine monster as my city has chloramines in the water. If you aren't sure about what's in your city water give them a call they will tell you. @Bulk Reef Supply hands down the best customer services out there if you have any question hit up there chat on the website or call them they will answer all your question and you will talk to a real person.

 

[Potatohead]

I definitely do not have a large water volume need past my initial tank fill. So your recommendation on the 75 gpd unit is spot on I agree. I am just a little confused about the mentioned lower waste unit. Is this a whole different setup or a different membrane? Producing water fast is not my concern I am just interested in reducing the amount of waste water I produce.

With dual membranes you basically take the waste out of the first membrane, and feed it into the second membrane. Some of this becomes product water of course and so you reduce your waste. However if you don't have lots of pressure with this system, because your second membrane is working harder than the first, it may allow more TDS through and you will use DI resin faster, which gets expensive too.

 

[ccombs]

I am one of the few who use it, but I love the Aquatic Life 4 Stage RODI. It is super easy to change cartridges and much smaller and more portable.

 

[DarrenCar]

I am one of the few who use it, but I love the Aquatic Life 4 Stage RODI. It is super easy to change cartridges and much smaller and more portable.

The aquatic life was the unit I was convinced would be best for a smaller system like mine.

 

[Mjrenz]

Just read through your post and wanted to suggest a couple things; I saw a video from brs a while ago that tells you how to check if your water company uses chloramines by comparing free chlorine to total chlorine with test strips. I can't remember exactly how, I didn't commit it to memory because I'm on a well and don't have chlorine in my water, but it's on YouTube. Also, your water pressure shouldn't be any more than 60 psi in your house, most plumbing fixtures are designed for a maximum operating pressure of 60 psi so if it's more, a pressure reducing valve is supposed to be installed to limit it. You can easily confirm your pressure by getting an inexpensive pressure guage that attaches to your hose bib from home depot or lowe's