I have that tank. It has low iron glass so it has a really nice clarity. The 27” height looks good from an aspect ratio. But it is unwieldy for access. I am 6’ tall and getting at things on the bottom of the tank is often problematic. It would be handy to have arms like an orangutan.
The 72” width (often called length) is nice. Six feet is kind of the minimum dimension for many tank species and for tangs the longer the better which means 8’, 10’ or even 12’. But 6’ was kind of my max.
The 36” depth (often called width) is really nice. It gives all sorts of dimension for aquascaping. Think about it. You need to have a gap between rock work and the glass. That means a 4” to 6” gap. On both sides that is 8” to 12” total. For an. 18’ depth, that gives you at most 10” to play with. So it means you have a rock wall. With a 24”depth, you now have 16 to 12 inches to play with. With a 36” depth you have 24 to 28 inches to play with. You just have far more terrain to sculp.
A minus for the tank is the corner overflows. They work just fine. But they subtract real estate and they limit powerhead placement. I would greatly prefer a ghost overflow system.
But it is the nearly the largest low iron production tank. To get something comparable, you need to go custom. With a custom tank you could do something like 8’ for width, 24” height and 36” depth and do a peninsula configuration. A peninsular lets you attack a tank from all sides which helps with maintenance.
