Whats the right way to level a tank

renato120 · Dec 28, 2015

Hey guys im setting it up my tank now and it is not leveled.
For me to level the tank I need to raise half inch on the front of the stand.
Is that a way to level the stand without cracking the tank when its full?
I placed a couple of acrylic strips on the front, and its almost where it should be.
This is what I did:
Side view:

front:

TheEngineer · Dec 28, 2015

I've done adjustable feet on the bottom. Carpet makes it tricky since it will settle. I don't see any reason what you did will be a problem. Those stands concentrate the weight on the corners anyhow.

renato120 · Dec 28, 2015

Im so afraid to crack the tank!

TheEngineer · Dec 28, 2015

I hear that! Get other opinions here too... I don't see why you'd be at risk the tank cracking so long as the stand doesn't deform.

dochow · Dec 28, 2015

Use shims

shoelaceike · Dec 28, 2015

Just make sure the shims or whatever you use to level it is under the beams that directly support the tank and not molding....from the pics it looks like its under the molding

AlexG · Dec 28, 2015

What size is this tank and what material is the stand made out of (particle board or plywood)? I would like to know this information before I offer an opinion.

renato120 · Dec 28, 2015

shoelaceike said:
Just make sure the shims or whatever you use to level it is under the beams that directly support the tank and not molding....from the pics it looks like its under the molding

I cant see the beams. There is a plywood covering everything. I placed the acrylic from the corners all the way to the other side. Where can I get the shims?

renato120 · Dec 28, 2015

AlexG said:
What size is this tank and what material is the stand made out of (particle board or plywood)? I would like to know this information before I offer an opinion.

120g Im not sure wich one it is: its just a marineland regular stand.

Smite · Dec 28, 2015

Home depot or lowes. Shims are usually in the door and window section. Nice and cheap too.

Smite · Dec 28, 2015

Peek inside the stand to see where the vertical studs are, then shim under those points. Stick you finger between your acrylic shims now and feel if there is a 2x4 that runs the footprint behind the molding. If there is, just be sure to get the shim all the way back under there or your molding may pop off.

EDIT: If the footprint is not framed out with 2x4's then your vertical studs most likely go straight to the floor and you'll only be able to shim under those points.

shoelaceike · Dec 28, 2015

Yup like he said.....you can tell where the beams are...I can see them....it's the 3/4 inch plywood? That goes from the floor to the top of the stand.....if you do shims, get composite shims as they are stronger, won't warp as much when wet and are much easier to break cleanly. The stand looks like pine.

renato120 · Dec 28, 2015

shoelaceike said:
Yup like he said.....you can tell where the beams are...I can see them....it's the 3/4 inch plywood? That goes from the floor to the top of the stand.....if you do shims, get composite shims as they are stronger, won't warp as much when wet and are much easier to break cleanly. The stand looks like pine.

Smite said:
Peek inside the stand to see where the vertical studs are, then shim under those points. Stick you finger between your acrylic shims now and feel if there is a 2x4 that runs the footprint behind the molding. If there is, just be sure to get the shim all the way back under there or your molding may pop off.

EDIT: If the footprint is not framed out with 2x4's then your vertical studs most likely go straight to the floor and you'll only be able to shim under those points.

Thank you. I will look in to that. On my way to home depot.

CastAway · Dec 28, 2015

I think what you've done looks good.
Far better to use shims under the stand, as opposed to shims under the glass. And, best to transfer the stresses through as much horizontal surface area as possible, and at those interfaces with vertical supports where the weigh is concentrated.

renato120 · Dec 28, 2015

CastAway said:
I think what you've done looks good.
Far better to use shims under the stand, as opposed to shims under the glass. And, best to transfer the stresses through as much horizontal surface area as possible, and at those interfaces with vertical supports where the weigh is concentrated.

You saying this is ok, but the shims would be better under the stand instead of the acrylic?

AlexG · Dec 28, 2015

renato120 said:
120g Im not sure wich one it is: its just a marineland regular stand.

I would say that method of shimming should work then. As others have stated make sure the shims are under the main stand structure and not just the trim. The home depot plastic shims should work well to to add some extra support between the stand and the floor.

CastAway · Dec 28, 2015

renato120 said:
You saying this is ok, but the shims would be better under the stand instead of the acrylic?

Personally, I don't think the shims, plastic or wood, would work any better than what you've already done. In fact, depending on the size of the shims, what you've done may be more reliable and stable. Just my two cents.

renato120 · Dec 28, 2015

Inside the cabinetes there are no 2x4. Jus a piece of wood all the way around nailed with the trim

shoelaceike · Dec 28, 2015

renato120 said:
Inside the cabinetes there are no 2x4. Jus a piece of wood all the way around nailed with the trim

The 3/4 boards that go from the bottom to top are the ones you will want to shim under.

renato120 · Dec 28, 2015

This is what I did! Its perfectly leveled.
Since the acrylic is flat Im taking the hole front under the wood. I used the shim on the back and re inforce the both sides