When did you see results from carbon dosing?

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I've done everything you have and my nitrate is off the salifert chart-tank looks great but this is war. I am awaiting a bottle of Continuum Aquatics, Bacter gen MD, which is designed to establish anaerobic bacteria. I plan on seeding SeaChem denitrate in a media reactor.
Continuum Aquatics | bacter gen•MD
I just started dosing vodka so I can't add anything re: the op's question since he was dosing vinegar. I was scared to dose vodka since I had fish in my tank, but after reading about several reefers' experiences, I was reassured that my fish would be ok if I was cautious through the whole process. I read the article "Vodka Dosing...Distilled!" by Walton and Bjornson (from a recommendation to a reefer from Randy Holmes-Farley). I decided to go with vodka since I do not like the scent of vinegar and I was afraid it would make my tank smell like vinegar. So to answer your question, I'd say it took 5 weeks to start seeing my nitrates go down and 6 weeks to start seeing noticeable results. I am happy with the results and will continue until my nitrates reach the level I am looking for. If I had the money, I would have gone with NOPOX, but I am glad the vodka is working and working safely. I don't overfeed, but since I have a lot of fish in a nano tank, I guess it generated more nitrates than my several macroalgae wanted. I hope this helps.
 
I added matrix to my sump and switched to vinegar dosing. I forget how long it took, but it did finally come down. Make sure you keep an eye on how fast nitrate is falling. I wasn’t paying close enough attention and ended up bottoming out my nitrate. I also used Phosphate Rx for phosphate. Good luck!
Thanks. I’ll stick w nopox over vinegar tho. Can’t see bottoming out nitrate but will be careful
 
We try to! We are those who are not chemists!
If I do not know I try to find out. It is not my fault Wikipedia does not explain it the same way. As far as I know, acetic acid has twice as much hydrogen atoms as oxygen atoms and contains only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, the perfect description of a carbohydrate !
Mc Murray and Fay 4th edition 2004, describes it as follows in section 24.7 p 1047: The word carbohydrates was used originally to describe glucose, C6H12O6, and was once thought to be a "hydrate of carbon" C6(H2O)6. Although this view was soon abandoned, the word persisted and is now used to refer to a large class of polyhydroxylated aldehydes and ketones. Carbohydrates are classified as either simple or complex. Monosaccharides and Polysacharides.
Peter Atkins and Loretta Jones Chemical principles "The quest for insight" section 19.14 p 894 Organic Chemistry, Functional groups: carbohydrates are so-called because they often have the empirical formula CH2O.

If chemists disagree about a simple definition for a carbohydrate!?

If the chemists explain it to a non-chemist, we assume it is correct. I think I am getting too old as I may not see it clearly!
But I think there is nothing wrong with my explanation! Discussion closed.

Chemists do not disagree. lol

It's people that read only part of the wikipedia definition that may have misunderstandings.
 
Thanks. I’ll stick w nopox over vinegar tho. Can’t see bottoming out nitrate but will be careful

NOPOX is likely fine, but I do not see a reason to prefer it.

If you get a cyano problem, vinegar might be something to try.
 
No " apparent" drawbacks? Really! How do you know? Compared to what?

I dosed it for many years. I also did not dose it for many years on the same system. I can see the exact changes it caused. None were negative at appropriate doses. :)
 
NOPOX is likely fine, but I do not see a reason to prefer it.

If you get a cyano problem, vinegar might be something to try.
Perhaps I'm lazy and the Red Sea guy did have a lovely video, explaining why nopox is the better choice:) No cyano issues but if it crops up, will follow your advice.
Thanks for your input.
 
Perhaps I'm lazy and the Red Sea guy did have a lovely video, explaining why nopox is the better choice:) No cyano issues but if it crops up, will follow your advice.
Thanks for your input.

lol

There's no accepted rationale for it to be a better choice, not even a theoretical one.

Over the years, many folks haves switched around between NOPOX, DIY NOPOX recipes, and straight vinegar and straight vodka, with little apparent benefit to NOPOX.
 
I answered the question asked in OP topic, I did not start the discussion about what are carbohydrates. That is solved out.
I replied to remarks made on my explanation. It is not way off-topic, as it is all about adding vinegar in a closed system, carbohydrates that may accumulate as it may not be used up due to unavailability of essentials, information which can be retrieved from the known parameters in topic
How long it will take to see the effect on the nitrate level by adding vinegar in this case? Well, I do not know!

Having a tank with the parameters in this topic, the user should never be advised to dose organic carbon, acetic acid.

Taking into account the known caveats and being aware of what is needed for growth, carbohydrates can be dosed safely. Denial for known caveats does help nobody.

If adding organic carbon has little or no influence on the nitrogen content that should ring the alarm bell!

An overdose of organic carbon has a huge effect on the coral holobiont
, much more as the nitrate level ever may be able to. ( ref: MB anthias 2019 ) Nitrate does not harm a thing!

If starting dosing one should also know how to stop dosing in a safe way.
Stopping dosing or reducing doses after having being used for a period of time may cause a so-called "new tank syndrome" Nobody will be able to link it to carbon dosing at the moment the tank is going down. It may not show by the parameters at that moment. Limiting the risks as much as possible is good management.
Building of dosing and or doses must be done over a long period of time, the time needed to reinstall the by carbon dosing replaced autotrophic carrying capacity, which may take weeks.

Managing the nutrient content in a closed system is about knowing what is going in and knowing what is going out.

Answering the question of the topic correctly is not possible as carbon dosing can not directly be linked to nitrate removal. Cultivated r-strategists and other microorganisms relaying on DOC for their carbon source prefer ammonia-nitrogen. Increasing the C/N ratio limits the nitrification capacity, removing autotrophic carrying capacity. Making an estimate about nitrogen export is difficult as carbon dosing removes nothing from the system, it only increases the heterotrophic bioload which also can be done safely using an algae filter., with a lot fewer drawbacks and a lot lower risk factor. Using an algae filter in a refuge one can estimate and manage the removal rate, one is able to restore and manage the nutrient imbalance created by the use of a skimmer..

Using remineralization filters, one can determine the correct dose of organic carbon needed to produce the energy needed ( using up the added carbon) to take up all nutrients coming available breaking down DOC, nitrate and phosphorus. Which leaves nothing for autotrophic growth. ( algae) This eliminates the use of a skimmer.
One can manage the availability of building materials and add what is needed.
Biofloc is harvested and ore reused as a food source. A high DOC content, a High C/N ratio, a high CO2 production taking place in the display is avoided. Carbon doses are used up in the filter, the high CO2 production is removed and the effect on alkalinity can be corrected before entering the display,

In this case, it is known there is no phosphate reserve for supporting the growth needed to lower the safely stored nitrogen reserve. Heterotrophic growth needs 40x more phosphate and other essentials to install the same carrying capacity supported by autotrophs, to reduce the same amount of ammonia. ( ref; MB CMF De Haes 2017) This means the bioload must be able to increase considerably and must continue to increase to support the carrying capacity.
Once started dosing one has to continue dosing.
A skimmer removes essential building materials (DOC ) constantly but leaves inorganic nutrients behind, it must be clear organic carbon is easily overdosed using the inorganic nitrogen reserve as a guideline for dosing. Acetic acid does not contain essentials needed to support growth, for restoring the created nutrient unbalance, only carbon for energy production. If the essentials are not available the system is overdosed, which may show by the snow effect when nutrients suddenly become available, depleting the oxygen content and creating a sudden and periodically high CO2 production and pH dip. On fora, this is often not considered a drawback of carbon dosing. Try to explain this to your corals and its holobiont. To everything else present in the system.

In this case, the nitrate level can not go down without messing up the biological balances in the entire tank. It will take its time. An inexperienced and not correctly informed user will start to increase doses in an attempt to lower safely stored nitrogen which can not be used at the moment of dosing due to the unavailability of the essentials needed for growth, ending up creating a huge overdose.

Other and safe solutions for managing the nutrient content have been mentioned.

Thanks for reading. Happy reefing!
 
lol

There's no accepted rationale for it to be a better choice, not even a theoretical one.

Over the years, many folks haves switched around between NOPOX, DIY NOPOX recipes, and straight vinegar and straight vodka, with little apparent benefit to NOPOX.
That being the case, I will look for the vodka dosing chart. Thank you as always, for your advice.
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley

hello I am dealing with a high nitrate issue that I am using NOPOX for. I originally was using vinegar, but switched to a bottle of NOPOx because my nitrates were holding strong and not budging.
I have been dosing about 2 weeks now and the last two days have had the “white film on the glass” (ie what I searched to bring me to this thread).
My question is:
Now that I have calcium precipitate, should I start dosing magnesium whilst continuing NOPOx or would it be overall beneficial to do a 20% water change and switch to vinegar?
 
@Randy Holmes-Farley

hello I am dealing with a high nitrate issue that I am using NOPOX for. I originally was using vinegar, but switched to a bottle of NOPOx because my nitrates were holding strong and not budging.
I have been dosing about 2 weeks now and the last two days have had the “white film on the glass” (ie what I searched to bring me to this thread).
My question is:
Now that I have calcium precipitate, should I start dosing magnesium whilst continuing NOPOx or would it be overall beneficial to do a 20% water change and switch to vinegar?

Why do you think it's a calcium carbonate precipitate rather than bacteria?

NOPOX drives bacterial growth, and if anything, will tend to reduce potential for precipitation of calcium carbonate by lowering pH.
 
Why do you think it's a calcium carbonate precipitate rather than bacteria?

NOPOX drives bacterial growth, and if anything, will tend to reduce potential for precipitation of calcium carbonate by lowering pH.
Just an assumption due to the color of the film on the glass.

I was unaware bacteria was able to make a thick white film, but if that is bacteria and not CaCO3, then I will add some buffer to ensure the pH is not dropping too low! My pH has been around 7.9 the last few days, but it did get as low as 7.6 once last week when I didnt realize I needed to be closely monitoring that too
 
Just an assumption due to the color of the film on the glass.

I was unaware bacteria was able to make a thick white film, but if that is bacteria and not CaCO3, then I will add some buffer to ensure the pH is not dropping too low! My pH has been around 7.9 the last few days, but it did get as low as 7.6 once last week when I didnt realize I needed to be closely monitoring that too

Bacteria will be a soft white film than can be wiped away.

Calcium carbonate is a hard white mineral and will be more likeyl to form at higher pH (not low). It is unlikely to form much at pH below 8 unless your alkalinity is high.
 
This Saturday will be 4 weeks since I started dosing NOPOX. My starting conditions were far worse than yours - my nitrates are off scale on the Salifert test (>100 ppm). They are still not within the upper test limit, so I do not know if they are improving or not. I'm doing water changes, reduced feedings, vacuuming sand, growing/removing chaeto, etc. They tell me patience is key. So I'm waiting...patiently...but at some point I'm going to have to try something else if I don't start seeing results.
Did u ever figure out what's causing the nitrates? I have a heavily stocked 20 long and my nitrates barely every get over 10. I'd have to wait 5 weeks between water changes for that to happen. I run no sump, no skimmer. Do you have bad water/RO unit ?
 
Bacteria will be a soft white film than can be wiped away.

Calcium carbonate is a hard white mineral and will be more likeyl to form at higher pH (not low). It is unlikely to form much at pH below 8 unless your alkalinity is high.
That’s the biggest issue I’m dealing with (Alk). Trying to get my pH up to help lower my alk, it sits at an uncomfortable 12-15 (15 after water change), and I can’t keep acros because of it. I was using instant ocean reef, but I just bought and have done one water change with regular instant ocean.
 
That’s the biggest issue I’m dealing with (Alk). Trying to get my pH up to help lower my alk, it sits at an uncomfortable 12-15 (15 after water change), and I can’t keep acros because of it. I was using instant ocean reef, but I just bought and have done one water change with regular instant ocean.

Corals do fine at high alk. In fact, SPS grow faster. They key is to have sufficient nutrients to support the faster growth.

If you still want to lower alk, water changes regular instant ocean is a poor choice as it is a high alk salt.

Use a low alk salt mix, or lower the alk in the salt mix you prefer, using an acid.
 
Corals do fine at high alk. In fact, SPS grow faster. They key is to have sufficient nutrients to support the faster growth.

If you still want to lower alk, water changes regular instant ocean is a poor choice as it is a high alk salt.

Use a low alk salt mix, or lower the alk in the salt mix you prefer, using an acid.

okay! thank you for all this fantastic information :)

I think the acros I had just werent used to my alk, the previous owner I got frags from kept her tank around 8, so the jump was probably shocking to them.

any particular acid that is preferred for lowering alk?
 
Yes, alk moving around rapidly is an issue for many corals.

These are the best ways to drop alk in new salt water:


 
Did u ever figure out what's causing the nitrates? I have a heavily stocked 20 long and my nitrates barely every get over 10. I'd have to wait 5 weeks between water changes for that to happen. I run no sump, no skimmer. Do you have bad water/RO unit ?
I think it was just many many years of overfeeding and poor maintenance habits. Carbon dosing (vinegar) eventually took care of the problem. In fact, now I struggle to keep nitrates above 1, even after quitting carbon dosing about 7 or 8 months ago.
 

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