JCTReefer
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@brandon429 is the cycle expert here. Listen to him.. lol
Where am I on cycle?
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Shunopoli
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What did you mean by I was able to start on day 6? Did you mean dosing ammonia ? If so if I start dosing with dr tims should I remove the shrimp? And should I continue dosing my bacteria?
Its never too late.
I havent cycled a tank without ammonia for a long time, its way faster.
Ace hardware sells ammonia that is safe to use ill atatch a picture.
You cant use just any bottle of ammonia, so if you are not sure what you are doing just buy dr tims to be safe cause the wrong atuff can destroy your substrate with perfumes dyes or chemicals.
Shunopoli
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Thanks for this, but I would feel safer going the Dr Tims routeIts never too late.
I havent cycled a tank without ammonia for a long time, its way faster.
Ace hardware sells ammonia that is safe to use ill atatch a picture.
You cant use just any bottle of ammonia, so if you are not sure what you are doing just buy dr tims to be safe cause the wrong atuff can destroy your substrate with perfumes dyes or chemicals.
mcshams
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I agree. Not only that, his writing style/speaking style in his posts are so "in your face common sense"-like it feels as though I being spoke to like a drill sergeant or coach (both things I admire and enjoy personally)... so after reading stuff he's written, I'm typically like... "of course!... let's go do this!". @brandon429
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everyone has their fav way to cycle and since bac are so set, so able long before us, they'll complete the job no matter how we arrange. certainly no harm in waiting for all params to line up, that's the classic way agreed.
but I was at aquashella this last year in Dallas staring at all the ready-tanks.
I was thinking: how'd they get five hundred of these rascals all online, by Friday?> not one stall?> when money is on the line to sell to me, you can complete all cycles without delay? ok , nice. lets use that in forums and legitimize it all.
some dry rocks with caribsea liferocks/w fish and some corals insta-tanks.
some were live rock transfer setups: live rocks had literally grown in place corals/they simply relocated the mature tank from LFS to convention, and back. skipping all cycles.
then there was the dry start demo booths: white rocks, a 20 gallon tank, and about 15 clowns all happy and displaying total ammonia control for all the days of the convention.
we get to break all the rules they get to break
the idea to remove shrimp above was an assessment means using the current arrangement. if you wanted to use that fine detailed exacting ammonia, that can work too, you'll have to decide which meter of completion you want to apply though.
for simplicity I would remove the shrimp, watch for a change to yellowish, change out 100% of the rot water for new clean water (or as much as you can muster to change) then *choose your fish disease protocol* and begin reefing.
but I was at aquashella this last year in Dallas staring at all the ready-tanks.
I was thinking: how'd they get five hundred of these rascals all online, by Friday?> not one stall?> when money is on the line to sell to me, you can complete all cycles without delay? ok , nice. lets use that in forums and legitimize it all.
some dry rocks with caribsea liferocks/w fish and some corals insta-tanks.
some were live rock transfer setups: live rocks had literally grown in place corals/they simply relocated the mature tank from LFS to convention, and back. skipping all cycles.
then there was the dry start demo booths: white rocks, a 20 gallon tank, and about 15 clowns all happy and displaying total ammonia control for all the days of the convention.
we get to break all the rules they get to break
the idea to remove shrimp above was an assessment means using the current arrangement. if you wanted to use that fine detailed exacting ammonia, that can work too, you'll have to decide which meter of completion you want to apply though.
for simplicity I would remove the shrimp, watch for a change to yellowish, change out 100% of the rot water for new clean water (or as much as you can muster to change) then *choose your fish disease protocol* and begin reefing.
Shunopoli
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Thanks for the information. You mentioned Dallas are you from Texas?everyone has their fav way to cycle and since bac are so set, so able long before us, they'll complete the job no matter how we arrange. certainly no harm in waiting for all params to line up, that's the classic way agreed.
but I was at aquashella this last year in Dallas staring at all the ready-tanks.
I was thinking: how'd they get five hundred of these rascals all online, by Friday?> not one stall?> when money is on the line to sell to me, you can complete all cycles without delay? ok , nice. lets use that in forums and legitimize it all.
some dry rocks with caribsea liferocks/w fish and some corals insta-tanks.
some were live rock transfer setups: live rocks had literally grown in place corals/they simply relocated the mature tank from LFS to convention, and back. skipping all cycles.
then there was the dry start demo booths: white rocks, a 20 gallon tank, and about 15 clowns all happy and displaying total ammonia control for all the days of the convention.
we get to break all the rules they get to break
the idea to remove shrimp above was an assessment means using the current arrangement. if you wanted to use that fine detailed exacting ammonia, that can work too, you'll have to decide which meter of completion you want to apply though.
for simplicity I would remove the shrimp, watch for a change to yellowish, change out 100% of the rot water for new clean water (or as much as you can muster to change) then *choose your fish disease protocol* and begin reefing.
Shunopoli
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Ok it has been a week since I posted so now I am on 13 days of my cycle. Thoughts? Should I continue just letting it run it's coarse? It looks like my ammonia has gone down and my nitrites and nitrates are through the roof.
After Week 1
After Week 2
After Week 1
After Week 2
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I predict you are cycled and can start, cuz we only use ammonia going down + time underwater in updated cycling science and shrimp decay emits random amnts and rates of feed ---so only ammonia going down matters, after shrimp is removed.
but people rattle off guesses all day long on the web wanna proof it?
proof would be this: 100% water change take a pic of your new water a day after the change on the ammonia tester. this is calibrated zero, no dead shrimp and 100% water change means there can't be any ammonia, no source. Now you have clean water, and whatever cycling bac adhere to rocks n sand.
*using liquid ammonia only, add a few drops n take ammonia test. Stop when your sample indicates one visual degree of change from calibrated zero; dont go to 2 ppm. go to first discernible change from the 1st pic. stop.
retest ammonia overnite, I bet its back to calibrated zero. post pics of all that!
but people rattle off guesses all day long on the web
wanna proof it?proof would be this: 100% water change take a pic of your new water a day after the change on the ammonia tester. this is calibrated zero, no dead shrimp and 100% water change means there can't be any ammonia, no source. Now you have clean water, and whatever cycling bac adhere to rocks n sand.
*using liquid ammonia only, add a few drops n take ammonia test. Stop when your sample indicates one visual degree of change from calibrated zero; dont go to 2 ppm. go to first discernible change from the 1st pic. stop.
retest ammonia overnite, I bet its back to calibrated zero. post pics of all that!
Shunopoli
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I predict you are cycled and can start, cuz we only use ammonia going down + time underwater in updated cycling science and shrimp decay emits random amnts and rates of feed ---so only ammonia going down matters, after shrimp is removed.
but people rattle off guesses all day long on the web
proof would be this: 100% water change take a pic of your new water a day after the change on the ammonia tester. this is calibrated zero, no dead shrimp and 100% water change means there can't be any ammonia, no source. Now you have clean water, and whatever cycling bac adhere to rocks n sand.
*using liquid ammonia only, add a few drops n take ammonia test. Stop when your sample indicates one visual degree of change from calibrated zero; dont go to 2 ppm. go to first discernible change from the 1st pic. stop.
retest ammonia overnite, I bet its back to calibrated zero. post pics of all that!
I would rather not do a %100 water change lol. Do you think it safe to say I can take the shrimp out now? Maybe perform a small water change?
Bacteria wont die in the time it takes to do a 100% plus then you know you have 0 nitrates.
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for sure. your tests will register all kinds of crossreporting until it balances out, nitrate presence w make for strong algae potential at the start, go easy on lighting for sure for a while. the tank is cycled without a doubt, meaning change what you can and what you add as starting bioload will not die within 2 days, and it would in an uncycled tank.
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=acceptable. I thought u were bacteria doubting. *the guy with a one gallon reef thinks full water changes are easy/noted
change whats reasonable and keep lighting low, remove shrimp and give it a day to clear ammonia and you can start. even if the non seneye ammonia says something is there, its not within 24 hours after removing shrimp
change whats reasonable and keep lighting low, remove shrimp and give it a day to clear ammonia and you can start. even if the non seneye ammonia says something is there, its not within 24 hours after removing shrimp
If you are planning on a tank without algae you need rodi imo. Make sure you test your water source for 0tds. If you dont do a large waterchange you will likely struggle with nitrates for some time.
