Why are zoa's so frikin expensive?

[that Reef Guy]

My LFS sells rastas for $20 a head and I got mine for $6 a had shipping included!!!

I have gotten Rastas for 0.25 a Head (Yes 25 Cents).

I got a 400 Polyp Rock for $100

Be Patient and Look Around.

Go to Frag Swaps and Visit Local Reefers.

 

[tdiddy]

Which Ones are you referring to?

How much are they?

Yes, the newest ones to the Hobby will be Expensive as they are in Short Supply Since they are New but will Drop in Price as more people get them.

There are a million different types of Zoanthids and a ton that are Beautiful and Affordable.

If you are Focused on "The Latest and Greatest" they will be alot.

Instead focus on the "Oldies but Goodies"

That is My Best Advice

I totally agree. I just find it insane that stratosphere and other "designer" zoa's sell at 1000 a polyp.

 

[that Reef Guy]

I totally agree. I just find it insane that stratosphere and other "designer" zoa's sell at 1000 a polyp.

Some people have to be the first kid on the block to get something.

Once they all get them prices will fall.

In regards to Stratosphere they are very very prone to melting so people do not want to sell them.

One guy on here was complaining he was willing to spend $500 for 1 Polyp but nobody would sell to him!

A bunch of people were like "I would love to take your $500 and I have 10 Polyps. But If I sell 1 to get $500 there is a high probablilty I loose them all so I am not risking $5,000 to make $500

That is the story on Stratosphere.

I am sure there are others like it that are Prone to Melting if you Frag Them which then keeps Prices Very High.

 

[4FordFamily]

I cannot get mine to reproduce very quickly, in fact I have zero right now I had a butterfly or angel that took care of them a few years ago and I didn't replace them yet. Waiting to find someone selling a rock covered in them on Craigslist again.

I also assume that the slow reproduction for all but zoa veterans has something to do with the price. I think my "colonies" doubled in size every 3 years, if that.

 

[that Reef Guy]

I cannot get mine to reproduce very quickly, in fact I have zero right now I had a butterfly or angel that took care of them a few years ago and I didn't replace them yet. Waiting to find someone selling a rock covered in them on Craigslist again.

I also assume that the slow reproduction for all but zoa veterans has something to do with the price. I think my "colonies" doubled in size every 3 years, if that.

They usually grow fast for most people (Some Strains are Slow but many are fast growing).

Maybe you are doing something wrong?

What are you Water Parameters?

Tell us about your Setup Please so we can help.

 

[4FordFamily]

They usually grow fast for most people (Some Strains are Slow but many are fast growing).

Maybe you are doing something wrong?

What are you Water Parameters?

Tell us about your Setup Please so we can help.

I don't even pay attention to anything other than ammonia nitrite and nitrate. I'm primarily a fish guy, I keep cheap coral. If it's not the hardiest of its kind, I don't buy it for my tanks. I do well with clams somehow typically.

I don't test calcium or magnesium or strontium. At times when I dosed these things it was always in the low range when I tested because I would rather have too little than too much since I almost never test.

I am sure this is a contributing factor.

Ammonia nitrite always 0, nitrate 2-40 depending on how long since my last WC haha

Both my 180 reef and 125 reef struggle to keep zoa and anything that wouldn't survive living in cat urine lol.

I have lots of leathers (Devils hand and cabbage or whatever), star polyps, anthelia, giant mushrooms, mushrooms of several types, Xenia, frogspawn, hammer, button polyps, common hairy yellow polyps (I forget the name, as you can see I am nowhere near as knowledgeable about coral as I am fish) and a little bit of monti caps but they don't thrive at all either. In fact more than 2/3 of these frags die. I can't keep candy cane coral alive for more than 6 months most of the time although I have had success with larger mor established colonies purchased from other reefers

I had a bubble coral for several years that I killed around the same time my zoa got eaten when I moved my tank.

 

[4FordFamily]

I also have tons of RBTA but they're pretty easy too

 

[Wiz]

Greed. Supply and demand is fine for retailers or buisness. But hobbiest who try to get these outrageous prices are awful imo. If you have a colony long enough to frag it, I assume its doing well. It will continue to produce. You will get money back. If you are truly a hobbiest than you should be glad to get a small amount back while at the same time saving our natural reefs, making fellow reefers happy, and undercutting the outrageous vendor and lfs prices. People who charge $20 a polyp for tank raised colonies that are not in buisness are just greedy.
I sell sunny ds, ked reds, king midas, rasta and more for less than $3 a polyp. Just sold a 15 polyp rasta frag for $20. I'm getting some cash to further my tank and people are thrilled to get them. :-D I would never pay the rediculas prices from a hobbiest. Just my opinion.

 

[1979fishgeek]

Best bet is swap frags with local reefers, then you both are happy.

I got some gorgeous frags on eBay much cheaper than local shops even paying postage and they are fancy morph's which the local shops just can't get hold off.

 

[Dragonreef202]

Zoas aren't any different from buying a car, clothes,. I just buy what I like. You can find all kinds of Zoas colors , prices. It's up to your preference. Zoas aren't the only expensive coral out there.

 

[Squid]

I totally agree. I just find it insane that stratosphere and other "designer" zoa's sell at 1000 a polyp.

If your seeing strats and other designers for 1000 a polyp your looking in the wrong places and fixating on scammers

 

[tdiddy]

I actually saw my first most expensive zoa's here. Up until i joined here i just assumed zoa's came around 5-10 bucks a polyp. Just sticker shock i guess.

 

[that Reef Guy]

I don't even pay attention to anything other than ammonia nitrite and nitrate. I'm primarily a fish guy, I keep cheap coral. If it's not the hardiest of its kind, I don't buy it for my tanks. I do well with clams somehow typically.

I don't test calcium or magnesium or strontium. At times when I dosed these things it was always in the low range when I tested because I would rather have too little than too much since I almost never test.

I am sure this is a contributing factor.

Ammonia nitrite always 0, nitrate 2-40 depending on how long since my last WC haha

Both my 180 reef and 125 reef struggle to keep zoa and anything that wouldn't survive living in cat urine lol.

I have lots of leathers (Devils hand and cabbage or whatever), star polyps, anthelia, giant mushrooms, mushrooms of several types, Xenia, frogspawn, hammer, button polyps, common hairy yellow polyps (I forget the name, as you can see I am nowhere near as knowledgeable about coral as I am fish) and a little bit of monti caps but they don't thrive at all either. In fact more than 2/3 of these frags die. I can't keep candy cane coral alive for more than 6 months most of the time although I have had success with larger mor established colonies purchased from other reefers

I had a bubble coral for several years that I killed around the same time my zoa got eaten when I moved my tank.

What Powerheads and Lights do you use?

 

[4FordFamily]

What Powerheads and Lights do you use?

3 hydor 1650s, and two 60" 50/50 xho reef brite leds and a 60" 100% actinic xho reef Brite. I've had all of those things for going on 5 years now that had all of the easy coral mentioned above.

 

[sde1500]

I don't even pay attention to anything other than ammonia nitrite and nitrate. I'm primarily a fish guy, I keep cheap coral. If it's not the hardiest of its kind, I don't buy it for my tanks. I do well with clams somehow typically.

I don't test calcium or magnesium or strontium. At times when I dosed these things it was always in the low range when I tested because I would rather have too little than too much since I almost never test.

I am sure this is a contributing factor.

Ammonia nitrite always 0, nitrate 2-40 depending on how long since my last WC haha

Both my 180 reef and 125 reef struggle to keep zoa and anything that wouldn't survive living in cat urine lol.

I have lots of leathers (Devils hand and cabbage or whatever), star polyps, anthelia, giant mushrooms, mushrooms of several types, Xenia, frogspawn, hammer, button polyps, common hairy yellow polyps (I forget the name, as you can see I am nowhere near as knowledgeable about coral as I am fish) and a little bit of monti caps but they don't thrive at all either. In fact more than 2/3 of these frags die. I can't keep candy cane coral alive for more than 6 months most of the time although I have had success with larger mor established colonies purchased from other reefers

I had a bubble coral for several years that I killed around the same time my zoa got eaten when I moved my tank.

After cycling the tank, ammonia and nitrite tests are useless. You complain about not being able to keep corals, but don't even test the big 3 that are important for coral health? That would be the first thing to change.

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

Mine were $13 per rock at the LFS

 

[4FordFamily]

After cycling the tank, ammonia and nitrite tests are useless. You complain about not being able to keep corals, but don't even test the big 3 that are important for coral health? That would be the first thing to change.

Perhaps we have different definitions of complaining, and maybe you missed where I fully admitted I don't test or dose regularly enough to keep many types of coral. I am more of a fish guy and cheap easy coral guy.

I'm also well aware of how the nitrogen cycle works, this is not my first rodeo. The point I was making is that I dont really test anything of substance and not very frequently.

I have 4 tanks I operate in the house -- free time is already limited so I focus on ornamental and difficult to keep fish and some inverts such as clams that are easy in fish heavy systems.

 

[sde1500]

Perhaps we have different definitions of complaining, and maybe you missed where I fully admitted I don't test or dose regularly enough to keep many types of coral. I am more of a fish guy and cheap easy coral guy.

I have 4 tanks I operate in the house free time is already limited so I focus on ornamental and difficult to keep fish.

Sorry, maybe that came across as too harsh. Stick to FOWLR then, if 2/3 are dying is it really worth keeping them?

 

[4FordFamily]

Sorry, maybe that came across as too harsh. Stick to FOWLR then, if 2/3 are dying is it really worth keeping them?

I have operated "easy" reefs (with cheap and easy coral) for about 12 years and have two of each (2 fowlr and 2 reefs) I actually find fowlr to be more difficult than my "simple" reefs.

My best success with zoa were when I had no clue what I was doing and my husbandry was even more lax earlier on, oddly. But I've never consistently dosed and tested and done it effectively so I'm sure as was already said that would help immensely.

Not harsh, just not sure you read my entire replies before responding.

 

[that Reef Guy]

I have Talked To and Read About quite a few People who have been Having Trouble Keeping Zoanthids so I decided to Make this Thread to Help them Out.



Here are My Tips for Happy, Healthy, and Fast Growing Zoanthids.

1. Bayer Dip
2. Keep Everything Stable
3. Feed, Feed, Feed
4. Higher Light and Higher Flow (Generally Speaking)
5. Keep an Eye Out for POX
6. Do Regular Water Changes
7. Don't Buy Animals that Might Go After Zoanthids





1. Bayer Dip -

- No Coral (And I mean no Coral) goes into my Tank without an Aggressive Bayer Dip for 15 Minutes.
- Then I check for Eggs with a High Powered Magnifying Glass with a Built in LED Light Used by Coin Collectors.
- Bayer Kills the Pests but Does NOT Kill the Eggs.
- Zoanthids are Targeted by More Pests than any Other Coral (Nudibranches, Spiders, Sundial Snails, etc.)

http://www.zoaid.com/index.php?module=Gallery2&g2_itemId=384

See the Above Link for all things that can Kill Your Zoanthids!

P.S. I put a 6 Line Wrasse in Every Tank as they LOVE to Eat Pests. Without Fail Every Time I add a New Frag the 6 Line Wrasse Swims Over and Sticks His Nose in Every Nook and Cranny Inspecting for Pests. These Guys are AMAZING and Every Tank Tank Should have a 6 Line Wrasse for Pest Control!




2. Keep Everything Stable -

For Me
Temperature - 77 Degrees
Salinity - 1.026
Alkalinity - 8.5
Calcium - 480
Magnesium - 1440

- Test, Test, Test (I cannot Stress this Enough).
- I Test and Dose Every Day on 6 Tanks (2 of the Tanks I Test and Dose Twice a Day - Once in the Morning and Once at Night).
- My Alkalinity Does not Drop more than 0.3 a Day.
- Remember Alkalinity is Depleted more than anything Else in a Reef Tank and is the Most Important thing to Keep Stable which is Why I Test So Much.




3. Feed, Feed, Feed -

- Don't Listen to anybody that says you should have Zero Nitrate and Zero Phosphate with Zoanthids.
- They LOVE Food!
- I feed 3 Times a Week.

Tuesday -

1. Reef Roids
2 BRS Reef Chili
3. Seachem AquaVitro Fuel Vitamin and Ammino Acid Supplement

I mix all 3 Together in some Tank Water

Friday -

1. Reef Roids
2 BRS Reef Chili
3. Seachem AquaVitro Fuel Vitamin and Ammino Acid Supplement

I mix all 3 Together in some Tank Water

Sunday -

1. Larry's Reef Frenzy Frozen Food (LRS)

LRS is more for my Acans and Chalices which I Target Feed after Chopping it Up Fine with a Razor Blade but there are Fine Particle Coral Foods in LRS that the Zoanthids can Use.




4. Higher Light and Higher Flow (Generally Speaking) -

Unfortunately alot of people will Classify Softies like Zoanthids as Low Light / Low Flow Corals.

I think this is at least Partly Due to the Fact that Softies are More Forgiving Corals than SPS and LPS and a Lot of New People are Told to Start with these Corals when they enter the Hobby. Most people when starting out typically do not have a lot of light and flow so I think alot of LFS's just tell the New Hobbyist this because they know the Corals will Probably not Die on Them.

Now they may Live in These Conditions and Tolerate Low Light / Low Flow but they will not Thrive and be Healthy and Grow Fast in these Conditions.

- Remember not all Zoanthids are the Same.
- Some will do better in Lower Light and Flow.
- But in My Experience Most will Grow Faster, Have Bigger Polyps, and Better Color in Higher Light / Higher Flow Tanks.




5. Keep an Eye Out for POX -

I used to get Pox Outbreaks Quite Often When I Did Not Feed My Corals and Had Zero Nitrate and Zero Phosphate.

But Since I have been Feeding Heavily I have never gotten it so I feel that Poorly Fed Zoanthids are Prone to POX because of this.

I have also Read that some people feel that it comes from Changing of the Seasons or Temperature Drops in the Tank and I have noticed POX from both of these Situations (Fall to Winter and Spring to Summer Time, Power Goes Out and Temperature Drops - Boom POX the Next Day).

Thank God I do not get POX anymore (What a Nightmare)

If you get POX Dip the Zoanthids in Furan-2

Furan-2 can be found at your LFS (It is usually used to Treat Fungus on Freshwater Fish)

- Dip Once a Day for 3 Days in a Row.
- Wait 4 Days and if POX is still there Repeat.




6. Do Regular Water Changes -

- Do Water Changes on a Regular Basis.
- Water Changes will Help Take Out Excess Nutrients.
- They also help Replace Minerals that were Used Up in Coral Growth (Calcium, Magnesium, Strontium, etc.)




7. Don't Buy Animals that Might Go After Zoanthids -

- Angelfish
- Butterflies
- Foxface (Rabbitfish)





Hopefully these Tips will Help Some People Out that are Having Issues Keeping Zoanthids