Why does my anemone look so bad

David768

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 6, 2020
Messages
29
Reaction score
5
Location
Highland Charter Township
What state or country do you live in
Michigan
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I got it a few months ago and now it just looks bad

736ABCBD-FA50-4C13-A659-AF27E2FE9A10.jpeg
 
Looked into the a80 a little and it's hard to find par readings for it. The ones I did find say that the light is only 13w and consensus is 70 or 80 par underneath the light with 50 at the corners. Maybe I'm wrong, it was just a quick search. I still believe that the lighting is your issue. Typically it's the only time you see bleaching nems. I'll call in some others that know better than me. Maybe there's something I'm missing.
@Lost in the Sauce @Eagle_Steve @gig 'em @OrionN
 
Upvote 0
This was the day i got it i had a different light tho
This photograph clearly shows that the anemone isn’t suffering from bleaching. Zooxanthellae algae is brown in color. The pigment in the algae is called Chlorophyll. I’ve sometimes purchased bleaching nems from the lfs. Completely “white” nems to rehabilitate them. I still don’t see anything wrong with this one.
 
Upvote 0
This photograph clearly shows that the anemone isn’t suffering from bleaching. Zooxanthellae algae is brown in color. The pigment in the algae is called Chlorophyll. I’ve sometimes purchased bleaching nems from the lfs. Completely “white” nems to rehabilitate them. I still don’t see anything wrong with this one.
That pic is when he brought it home. Blue photos are current
 
Upvote 0
Its a nano tank so a kesil a80 is enough lighting for it
This is not true. The A80 is only 15 watts (and because of the way Kessils adjust the spectrum, you’re only ever going to get a max of around 10watts) , it wouldn’t be adequate for an anemone even on the shallowest of tanks, the PAR is pretty underwhelming. I researched this light pretty extensively as I was considering it for a nano/pico tank I’m planning and mounted 4” above a tank, at 8” of depth, the PAR is around 50, but even near the surface it’s less than 100. The A80 is really only suitable for low light softies and LPS on the smallest of tanks. A bubble tip generally needs a minimum of 150 PAR. Just because the anemone hasn’t moved does not mean it’s getting adequate light and just because people keep anemones under this light doesn’t mean it’s adequate. It would not be bleached like that with adequate light. As someone else mentioned above about their BTAs, my BTAs are in around 200-250 PAR and are at the highest point in the tank and stretch towards the light.
 
Upvote 0
This is not true. The A80 is only 15 watts (and because of the way Kessils adjust the spectrum, you’re only ever going to get a max of around 10watts) , it wouldn’t be adequate for an anemone even on the shallowest of tanks, the PAR is pretty underwhelming. I researched this light pretty extensively as I was considering it for a nano/pico tank I’m planning and mounted 4” above a tank, at 8” of depth, the PAR is around 50, but even near the surface it’s less than 100. The A80 is really only suitable for low light softies and LPS on the smallest of tanks. A bubble tip generally needs a minimum of 150 PAR. Just because the anemone hasn’t moved does not mean it’s getting adequate light and just because people keep anemones under this light doesn’t mean it’s adequate. It would not be bleached like that with adequate light. As someone else mentioned above about their BTAs, my BTAs are in around 200-250 PAR and are at the highest point in the tank and stretch towards the light.
What light do u recommend
 
Upvote 0
I would say the A80 isn't strong enough. Its what like 15 watts ? A used AI Prime will do the trick,its a lot stronger than the A80.
 
Upvote 0
This is not true. The A80 is only 15 watts (and because of the way Kessils adjust the spectrum, you’re only ever going to get a max of around 10watts) , it wouldn’t be adequate for an anemone even on the shallowest of tanks, the PAR is pretty underwhelming. I researched this light pretty extensively as I was considering it for a nano/pico tank I’m planning and mounted 4” above a tank, at 8” of depth, the PAR is around 50, but even near the surface it’s less than 100. The A80 is really only suitable for low light softies and LPS on the smallest of tanks. A bubble tip generally needs a minimum of 150 PAR. Just because the anemone hasn’t moved does not mean it’s getting adequate light and just because people keep anemones under this light doesn’t mean it’s adequate. It would not be bleached like that with adequate light. As someone else mentioned above about their BTAs, my BTAs are in around 200-250 PAR and are at the highest point in the tank and stretch towards the light.
Why would my anemone stay at the botton of the tank if it was a lighting problem wouldnt it try to move to more light not trying to argue with u just a question?
 
Upvote 0
I had to use 2x a80s over a biocube 32 to keep BTA happy at the top of the rocks.

I would suggest something along the lines of a prime, smatfam or even a nicrew 30w with the timer add on. The later is what I use for my nem hospital tank and has sustained all nems from gigs to mags with no issues. Even for extended periods of time.

I still think we need to know tank parameters to be sure. Light is an issue, unless the tank is like a fluval spec v or something very small. But there could also be nutrient issues, as in lack of any for the zoo in the nem, or too high of nutrients.

Lots of variables here, so the more info we have, the better.
 
Upvote 0
Why would my anemone stay at the botton of the tank if it was a lighting problem wouldnt it try to move to more light not trying to argue with u just a question?
My BTA has has hidden for nearly 6 months in a cave, only recently it has come out for some light/. Maybe they just are not used to it, you can always check on parimiters including light where you purchased from, it might need a break from too much light/ incorrect lighting spectrum, par as all various
 
Upvote 0
Lighting that isn't so blue that you can actually see the specimen in question.
Why would my anemone stay at the botton of the tank if it was a lighting problem wouldnt it try to move to more light not trying to argue with u just a question?
Lighting that isn't so blue that you can actually see the specimen in question. :face-with-hand-over-mouth:
Ur jI had to use 2x a80s over a biocube 32 to keep BTA happy at the top of the rocks.
I would suggest something along the lines of a prime, smatfam or even a nicrew 30w with the timer add on. The later is what I use for my nem hospital tank and has sustained all nems from gigs to mags with no issues. Even for extended periods of time.

I still think we need to know tank parameters to be sure. Light is an issue, unless the tank is like a fluval spec v or something very small. But there could also be nutrient issues, as in lack of any for the zoo in the nem, or too high of nutrients.

Lots of variables here, so the more info we have, the better.
My BTA has has hidden for nearly 6 months in a cave, only recently it has come out for some light/. Maybe they just are not used to it, you can always check on parimiters including light where you purchased from, it might need a break from too much light/ incorrect lighting spectrum, par as all various
My BTA has has hidden for nearly 6 months in a cave, only recently it has come out for some light/. Maybe they just are not used to it, you can always check on parimiters including light where you purchased from, it might need a break from too much light/ incorrect lighting spectrum, par as all various
It just looks like it’s lost most its color its a rainbow watermelon bta
 
Upvote 0
Ur jI had to use 2x a80s over a biocube 32 to keep BTA happy at the top of the rocks.



It just looks like it’s lost most its color its a rainbow watermelon bta
 

Attachments

  • 51DDCF1F-AD2D-465E-B3DE-1E63E5E09E31.jpeg
    51DDCF1F-AD2D-465E-B3DE-1E63E5E09E31.jpeg
    130.8 KB · Views: 28
Upvote 0
OK. What is NO3 and PO4? and what tank is it? (Like brand and gallons)

The nem is bleached. This could be a few things, not enough light or too much light. In addition, it could also be from too much light an no nutriuents available.

This is where I said, we need as much info as possible. A tank with nems and 0 nutrients can cause a nem to bleach with marineland strip light being too much light. The same can be said for blasting a nem with a 360x in a shallow tank and too many nutrients. There is a balance somewhere in there, we just need more info to know what to point you towards.
 
Upvote 0

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top