Will a blackout hurt corals/anemones and fish?

Leon Gorani

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So I think I have to do some type of blackout for about 3-5 days. I think I have bryopsis or Dino but I’m not sure. I wanted to do a blackout with dosing of hydrogen peroxide. Will a long blackout hurt my fish or corals? I have two longfin clownfish, two filefish, and a scissortail dartfish. Will the blackout do anything to these fish? What about corals and anemones. Since anemones need light, will a blackout hurt mine? I have a green bubble tip anemone. How long should I do it for and do I need to dose hydrogen peroxide everyday?
 
3 day black out shouldn’t harm any fish/coral/inverts
 
You should not do that method, though. Agreed the blackout wont hurt.

Ive been watching your posts about that mixed invader you have, I noticed that of all the methods offered to you, none came with a giant work thread of tanks actually being cured. they were all just offers, but had literally nothing you could see ahead of time/inspect as the poster didnt collect a work thread to show before and afters.

do you want to see one being worked before you begin dosing on your tank, or just go with the dose peroxide into water and see what happens option

there are 5 or 6 specific animals that peroxide can kill when dosed into a tank, the rest tolerate it just fine

did anyone mention the list of sensitives, wonder if u have some
 
yep just reread the first post, u have one from the list. that makes me have to see the currently selected planning and evaluation process for how to fix your tank as risky. pls update as you run the method so we can track outcomes

since nobody offered you a work thread, try to source one on your own. find the same expression of invaders anchored to rocks responding to perox+3 day blackout, by pics, in a thread. if you can find more than one, you're onto something.
if none...
 
I just finished a 3 day blackout. My corals, anemones, clowns and other fish are perfectly fine. Good luck!
 
Blackout won't hurt, I would stay away from peroxide unless you have some proof of it working in your situation.

I don't know enough about your issue but a blackout won't hurt. I've often done that two times within a month to weaken whatever pest I had then a second time to knock it out. That also gives you enough time to correct whatever underlying issue was causing things in the first place.
 
In my experience a blackout will cause anemones to move. The blackout may not hurt anything, but a moving nem can
 
No it wont. When I did blackout for Dino, I ran moonlights and blues at 5, then 10%- NO whites
 
the list of sensitives is currently:
-all species of lysmata shrimp, the most likely to die of any animal in reefing.
-anemones though they dont usually die are mighty mad for days w peroxide dosing, so we dont dose the water in anemone systems in our work threads that show before, during and after follow ups.
-hermodice fireworms are uber sensitive and likely to die, lose a ton of fireworms while bundled up and blacked out/issues
-decorative macros inline or chaeto
-coralline is stressed white but usually comes back
-xenia hate peroxide and shrivel up. some come back fine. def sensitive

no known fish are sensitive and no corals, although any corals or fish in current stress might be offended. in a healthy system we dont factor corals or fish in the sensitives list for the 1% of systems we dose the water

for the 99% including what the OP has in his tank, we rasp clean off a rock outside the tank, apply peroxide in a specific manner opposite the current plan, and then we put the rock back and watch it for regrowth or not. once we know it works, we take apart the whole reef to clean it of the filth that currently feeds a mix of invaders, and then work the rest of the rocks once the tank is cleaned of stored up waste.

the results are then cataloged as really sharp after pics and no lost animals. since this way requires work, its the least used. mostly stuff is randomly attempted, its best not to. using a test rock is the safest way to reef for sure. one of our threads for test rocking is out to 4 years of work all in one place, thats where the gold patterns exist...in someone's work thread.

even if this hard work / clean out the filthy sandbed method isn't warranted, no method should be used if a works thread can't be sourced.
 
Last edited:
yep just reread the first post, u have one from the list. that makes me have to see the currently selected planning and evaluation process for how to fix your tank as risky. pls update as you run the method so we can track outcomes

since nobody offered you a work thread, try to source one on your own. find the same expression of invaders anchored to rocks responding to perox+3 day blackout, by pics, in a thread. if you can find more than one, you're onto something.
if none...
I have something in the tank that could die if I use the peroxide method with blackout? I don’t know the name of all my corals but here are some images of them. If you could please let me know which would die that would be great so I don’t chose the wrong method.

I would like to know which method is proven to work without killing corals but I don’t have a definitive answer as to which method is best. I was going to do hydrogen peroxide because I thought it would work the best, but I’ve seen videos of fluconazole that have worked on YouTube but I still don’t know if that’s safe for my corals.
Which animals can die through the peroxide method? I have clownfish, dartfish, filefish, canary wrasse, scooter blenny, shrimp, and inverts. Here are some images of all my corals that I have as well for identification as to which would die. Thank you for all your help!

37BDC28B-C29C-4DF7-88A9-0A5114F56D3E.jpeg 7CBB410D-D0D7-4FB4-836B-3EDD01516E0A.jpeg A6FDAA1D-E2B5-4286-9350-F0B72B36FE86.jpeg A75C49F0-BD4D-4DD7-AEFD-5219059B3116.jpeg 57ED5983-7CB3-421A-A8AC-5F652119A470.jpeg 3F9F6BB1-14AE-4CEB-A2F4-27D95E67CBDA.jpeg EAE65812-3052-4F1E-8EE9-E2242B0E84CE.jpeg FA1EF93E-B839-4BA4-B8F6-BDA242876523.jpeg 5128C696-E379-44B4-A36E-9FF871D065C0.jpeg
 
the list of sensitives is currently:
-all species of lysmata shrimp, the most likely to die of any animal in reefing.
-anemones though they dont usually die are mighty mad for days w peroxide dosing, so we dont dose the water in anemone systems in our work threads that show before, during and after follow ups.
-hermodice fireworms are uber sensitive and likely to die, lose a ton of fireworms while bundled up and blacked out/issues
-decorative macros inline or chaeto
-coralline is stressed white but usually comes back
-xenia hate peroxide and shrivel up. some come back fine. def sensitive

no known fish are sensitive and no corals, although any corals or fish in current stress might be offended. in a healthy system we dont factor corals or fish in the sensitives list for the 1% of systems we dose the water

for the 99% including what the OP has in his tank, we rasp clean off a rock outside the tank, apply peroxide in a specific manner opposite the current plan, and then we put the rock back and watch it for regrowth or not. once we know it works, we take apart the whole reef to clean it of the filth that currently feeds a mix of invaders, and then work the rest of the rocks once the tank is cleaned of stored up waste.

the results are then cataloged as really sharp after pics and no lost animals. since this way requires work, its the least used. mostly stuff is randomly attempted, its best not to. using a test rock is the safest way to reef for sure. one of our threads for test rocking is out to 4 years of work all in one place, thats where the gold patterns exist...in someone's work thread.

even if this hard work / clean out the filthy sandbed method isn't warranted, no method should be used if a works thread can't be sourced.
I have been dosing 1 ml per 6 gallons of water for about 3 weeks in my DT. My lysmata shrimp (peppermint) is perfectly fine. My long tentacle anemone has shown absolutely no signs of anything wrong. My chaeto is all perfectly fine and looking healthy. My xenia also visually looks extremely well, but has stopped pulsing since the start of soaking, but it doesnt shrivel. I have no bristleworms, but I have dipped rocks in h202 and it definitely kills all bristleworms. It has not affected anything besides algae that I can see besides xenia
 
@Leon Gorani any update on what you did and the result . Seems I’m having same issue according to your pictures.
Yes I believe I used hydrogen peroxide and a blackout for about a week or more. Then after that I was dosing vodka for a while and I never had much algae after that, just a few little spots. But I also had too many fish and was feeding too much so I took like 2 fish out.
 
No it wont. When I did blackout for Dino, I ran moonlights and blues at 5, then 10%- NO whites
Wait you ran your lights during a blackout? I did my first 3 day blackout and my neon goby didn't make it. I have to do it again but I'm worried for my other fish
 
From what I see in the pictures it looks to be just a little turf algae. Hair algae that hasn't grown in.
Add to your cuc. Remove hermits. Replace with some snails. Hths you
D
 
I can't believe people dose hydrogen peroxide to their fish tanks.
Imagine if you swam in a pool and i was dumping chemicals in it. U couldn't taste it or smell it? Cmon ppl.
D
 
I have something in the tank that could die if I use the peroxide method with blackout? I don’t know the name of all my corals but here are some images of them. If you could please let me know which would die that would be great so I don’t chose the wrong method.

I would like to know which method is proven to work without killing corals but I don’t have a definitive answer as to which method is best. I was going to do hydrogen peroxide because I thought it would work the best, but I’ve seen videos of fluconazole that have worked on YouTube but I still don’t know if that’s safe for my corals.
Which animals can die through the peroxide method? I have clownfish, dartfish, filefish, canary wrasse, scooter blenny, shrimp, and inverts. Here are some images of all my corals that I have as well for identification as to which would die. Thank you for all your help!

37BDC28B-C29C-4DF7-88A9-0A5114F56D3E.jpeg 7CBB410D-D0D7-4FB4-836B-3EDD01516E0A.jpeg A6FDAA1D-E2B5-4286-9350-F0B72B36FE86.jpeg A75C49F0-BD4D-4DD7-AEFD-5219059B3116.jpeg 57ED5983-7CB3-421A-A8AC-5F652119A470.jpeg 3F9F6BB1-14AE-4CEB-A2F4-27D95E67CBDA.jpeg EAE65812-3052-4F1E-8EE9-E2242B0E84CE.jpeg FA1EF93E-B839-4BA4-B8F6-BDA242876523.jpeg 5128C696-E379-44B4-A36E-9FF871D065C0.jpeg
You should not be dosing H2O2 into your tank ever.

I know it's the current 'flavor of the month' neat trick, but it is an oxidiser and perilous to use in the water column.

Sometimes with desperation we do some silly things, I'd suggest avoiding the temptation as there are tried and proven methods for solving most problems.

There is no magic bullet, sometimes you just need to wait it out.

if you are dead set on doing it, how about you grab that bottle of H2O2, dilute it 100:1 and drink it.

Let us know how that works out, as that is what you are doing to your tank.
 

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