Would You Recommend this RO/DI System ???

[AZDesertRat]

No I don't believe so. Flush kits are a waste of money since they are on waste side and not the treated side. If you want value install a ball valve between the RO and the DI and flush the TDS creep out before making DI water so your resin lasts longer. Flush kits, manual or Auto, do not do this.

 

[jason2459]

I use both. I used to use a manual flush and now have an automatic flush which I like. I also have a valve setup before DI with a tds meter pre valve and let it run before use watching the TDS and close the valve once the TDS drops to or near normal levels. This does save on DI by eliminating the TDS creep. I've seen TDS creep elimination kits which you can put together yourself.

Pretty easy to setup and can be seen here just before my DI stage with the blue ball valve. It's in the open position in this picture and running there in the picture. Just make sure no valves are open after the DI stage until done. Just need a T and a valve. There are expensive 3 way valves but not worth it IMO.

 

[JBradford]

No I don't believe so. Flush kits are a waste of money since they are on waste side and not the treated side. If you want value install a ball valve between the RO and the DI and flush the TDS creep out before making DI water so your resin lasts longer. Flush kits, manual or Auto, do not do this.

That's how I roll. Saves my DI.

 

[jason2459]

No I don't believe so. Flush kits are a waste of money since they are on waste side and not the treated side. If you want value install a ball valve between the RO and the DI and flush the TDS creep out before making DI water so your resin lasts longer. Flush kits, manual or Auto, do not do this.

Why would you not flush your membrane? (in a typical RODI setup.)


Edit: (edit edit: I see what your saying)

http://spectrapure.com/frequently-asked-questions-p2

WHY FLUSH THE MEMBRANE?

Flushing the membrane helps to prevent membrane scaling and plugging, when a system is used in an area with particularly high TDS, or hard water. A system run at a low ratio eg. 2:1, will greatly benefit from employing a flush mechanism , especially in cases where such use is under aformentioned conditions. Read this article from DOW in regards to why it is beneficial to flush - Article...

 

[AZDesertRat]

Unless you are running a reduced waste ratio, which you should not attempt if you have hard water and/or normal to high TDS, flush kits do nothing. Your membrane will be surrounded with TDS 20-25% higher than tap which isn't significant. When you start reducing the waste that TDS can be 200% of normal which is why reducing the waste is not a good idea unless you have soft water and low TDS to start with.

 

[jason2459]

Yet many have 2:1 and 1:1 in non-low tds areas. Mine is at about 1:1 and used post soft water softener with probably higher then average TDS (>300). I've always flushed pre and post use briefly and do so automatically now which also does it periodically during along with the pre and post run. I'll also do as described above pre DI use.

Fwiw, my rejection rate is also well over 99%.

 

[Ryan Espinoza]

I have the 6 stage water saver from BRS. Might be over kill but better safe than sorry. Its amazing!

 

[AZDesertRat]

Reducing the waste in hard water and higher TDS waters greatly reduces the membrane life and drives the cost of ownership up due to more frequent replacements. You must weigh the pros and cons to decide if it's worth it. For me in Phoenix it was not worth it with our 500-1200 TDS and very hard water. The water softener helped but still was more expensive per treated gallon than just living with the normal 4:1 waste ratio and longer membrane life.
My solution was a Spectrapure UHE which runs at slightly less than 1:1 but flushes with stored DI water so my membrane is now over 8.5 years and still going strong at 99.4+% rejection rate versus the 18 months max before. The UHE paid for itself in replacements and water/sewer savings in the third year and has been paying me back ever since.

 

[Dom]

Funny that I should come across this post; I just changed my filters and resin.

I have a similar one; it's only 5 stages. Mine only has one DI Resin canister. Is it really necessary to have two? I wonder what the benefit is in having a second one....

 

[AZDesertRat]

It all depends on the quality of your tap water, how efficient your RO membrane is and the quality of your DI and how it is plumbed. Some DI resins are better at certain things than others and a full size vertical DI that flows from the bottom up is much better than a horizontal DI that channels and short circuits.
A good RO/DI is a system or unit well designed from start to finish. Use inefficient sediment and the carbon fails taking everything downstream out. Use a high quality sediment and carbon and they protect the RO which protects the DI. RO is simply pretreatment for DI.
I use a dual DI where the first is a roughing filter for the second so it lasts 3+ times longer and gives me true 0 TDS or 18.2 megaohm pure water.

 

[jason2459]

Reducing the waste in hard water and higher TDS waters greatly reduces the membrane life and drives the cost of ownership up due to more frequent replacements. You must weigh the pros and cons to decide if it's worth it. For me in Phoenix it was not worth it with our 500-1200 TDS and very hard water. The water softener helped but still was more expensive per treated gallon than just living with the normal 4:1 waste ratio and longer membrane life.
My solution was a Spectrapure UHE which runs at slightly less than 1:1 but flushes with stored DI water so my membrane is now over 8.5 years and still going strong at 99.4+% rejection rate versus the 18 months max before. The UHE paid for itself in replacements and water/sewer savings in the third year and has been paying me back ever since.

Yes, it could reduce membrane life and flushing the membrane will help why I'm happy to have an automatic flush now for it. Before my setup was a 4:1 but I would still flush it. And yup, that UHE system is most excellent as are all their systems.

My maintenance takes into consideration my lazyness, wanting to do many other things then worry about water quality, and being preventive before there is an issue with out having to test every single time I use my system which is often.

I have an easy to remember schedule. Every June replace my prefilters (Used to be every 6 months but now once a year with the larger prefilters) and every year thats divisible by 3 in January change my membrane. Simple and yes it may not be necessary but relatively cheap insurance and prevention to get clean water.

I too rotate multiple DI stages and currently have 2 stages which holds more DI then my previous 3 stages.

Everyone has to make their own choice on what path they want to go. That's mine.

 

[Cary Meredith]

I have the 6 stage BRS and really like it, I have 170 TDS coming in and 0 TDS coming out. I bought an extra TDS meter just to read the incoming to see just how bad the water was coming in.

 

[jason2459]

Since we're pretty well off topic and talking about options I would suggest this modification which I haven't seen standard on any system.

When changing out carbon prefilters you want to run water through them for so many gallons or minutes (I've seen different suggestions and I just go with 15minutes and 45 for membranes)

But you don't want to flush those Carbon blocks into your membrane. So, instead of removing the membrane I add in a T and a valve like the pre DI stage setup mentioned previously. Make sure all valves downstream are closed and open up the now prefilter flush valve

Post prefilter just before RO

 

[AZDesertRat]

If you look back at my RO posts for the last 15 years on all the reef forums you will find I have many detailed threads on how to disinfect the system then systematically flush the new filters, membrane and DI you are replacing them with. I also talk about installing tees and ball valves at multiple points to draw water for TDS testing and other uses. I had about 17,000 mostly RO posts on RC before leaving that site for more relaxed forums.

 

[jason2459]

If you look back at my RO posts for the last 15 years on all the reef forums you will find I have many detailed threads on how to disinfect the system then systematically flush the new filters, membrane and DI you are replacing them with. I also talk about installing tees and ball valves at multiple points to draw water for TDS testing and other uses. I had about 17,000 mostly RO posts on RC before leaving that site for more relaxed forums.

Yes?

I've seen your posts. Not sure what that's in response to?

Are you saying I shouldn't share another modification or option I find useful to a RODI system? That wasn't to you. Just a general this is what I have done that I find useful to the OP or anyone as it was asked if an autoflush was worth it. Which to me it is. To you it's not. No problem.

FWIW, I don't believe it necessary to disinfect a RO/DI system if it's used strictly for aquarium use. Some people do and that's fine. I certainly would if I used it for consumption for myself or non-aquatic pets.

 

[Tony Feathers]

Yes. I have had mine for about 1 yr with now concerns.

 

[Thle009]

I would save a $150 and get this one. 2 carbon blocks is overkill unless you are dealing with high chlorimines. You can always add a second DI unit if you want. Better to have a handheld tds meter than the inline ones.

http://spectrapure.com/Refurbished-90-GPD-RODI-System

I would recommend 6 stages. Under normal circumstances you wouldn't. But twice, my city lost water pressure and over treated the water to kill off stuffs and I lost over $1K if corals with a 5 stage system. So I would definitely recommend the 6 stage.

 

[JohnnyG]

Best one you can buy for the money!

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[Joseph Mooney]

I would go simpler

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[SpikeWire]

I absolutely recommend this system. Always assume you're dealing with Chloromines. TDS meter as well. I just like feeling safe with my rodi. Spend the extra money here (or and solid rodi) and have one less thing to worry about. [emoji3]