Wrasse qt method

[Smite]

I'm with you. Treating a pair of rhomboids right now along with the rest of my fish from my DT that are infected. I've been following HumbleFish & melypr1985's advice and slowly raising the copper levels. I'm using chelated copper, CopperPower and have worked up to half dose over the last 2 days. No signs of stress from them, still very active and eat like beasts. Hopefully they'll handle the full dosage well as I continue to work my way up. Good luck on your QT process, I hope it goes well for you. I'd be interested in hearing which route you take, and the outcome. During my search I found a lot of questions with answers, but not many people seem to update with the outcome of the advice given.

 

[jetmaker]

My suggestion is only for the benefit of the fish I've seen fish sell for $2500.00 and beyond even though I've only went over $300.00 before I would never qt that fish I'd put it in the dt and if it got ick I would treat it in the dt because it would benefit me so what the inverts go I can replace them cheap and as for copper that's why they make cuprasorb. I would not ever put a $2500.00 luonatus angel in a qt tank just to explain.

 

[Smite]

A few months ago I'd agree with the statement above.

I always feed a "ich recipe" and treated fish in my DT. It would consist of food soaked in Seachem's focus & metro, cap full of garlic, reef plus amino acids and a full dose of selcon once a day. This worked great for me in the past, but not for the last few months. Spots would dissappear only to come back full force a few days later. I'm thankful for the recipe as I think it kept the fish alive this time around, but it wasn't a cure. That's for sure.

My system is sps dominant, my water parameters are in check and my tank wasn't over stocked causing added stress.

I feel the qt "risk" is worth it. Stressful to have high end fish in a basic/bare bones qt system, but I think it will pay off in the end.

 

[jetmaker]

Treating in the dt shouldn't hurt your corals. And cuprasorb will remove the copper along with carbon.

 

[jetmaker]

Humblefish and I had this discussion a while back and he said this information was mostly for beginners and I totally agree but I like to give another side for their advancement only and I could say stuff that some others would believe and others here do allredy but that's a different post lol I wish the op luck and all I really ask was where he got his fish and when he said I said definitely qt.

 

[Alwmh4]

Now a couple months ago this tank had ammonia lick added to it. Does that need to be considered? Or is it inert by now?

 

[Humblefish]

Now a couple months ago this tank had ammonia lick added to it. Does that need to be considered? Or is it inert by now?

Are you referring to your QT or DT? Just like a DT, a semi-permanent QT needs a working bio-filter to break down ammonia.

 

[Alwmh4]

Ammonia lock was added to qt

 

[Paul B]

Ok, so the fish died of natural causes? Dude, there is not a person on the face of the planet that's been in this hobby for "30 years" and had never lost a fish to disease. That's asinine.

I hate to say this, but I don't remember ever losing any fish to disease in the last 30 years. Some of my fish are almost 30 years old. And, I actually did write a book. But have fun and don't argue.

 

[Paul B]

Ahh. Ok. Of course i have. Im still mourning my blue spot jawfish

I am mourning him along with you Merideth.

So you've never kept a tang (ick), wrasse (worms) or a trigger (flukes)? I'm sorry, but you are stubborn. I am too. If you've been doing this for 30 years, you used gravel filters and QT didn't exist. I'm sorry the OP has gone off thread. Maybe someone will learn something from this. Maybe. Gotta go. Good luck in treating your wrasse. You've come to the right place for (mostly) good advice. Good night.

I guess I should not mention that I started my first tank in 1952 and I still run a UG filter. Of course my reef tank is only running 44 years with no problems, but I think at 45 years, problems creep up.

 

[Humblefish]

I hate to say this, but I don't remember ever losing any fish to disease in the last 30 years.

I thought you said you bought a sick fish once, it developed white spots & died, but your existing fish remained unaffected?

 

[jetmaker]

I thought you said you bought a sick fish once, it developed white spots & died, but your existing fish remained unaffected?

He bought it and it already had ich didn't catch it in his tank.

 

[Paul B]

I thought you said you bought a sick fish once, it developed white spots & died, but your existing fish remained unaffected?

That is true. That is how I get a lot of my fish because most things are curable in a couple of days and the store is glad to get rid of them. Most of them live, but of course they don't count.
I recently got a copperband for five bucks because most of them in the store already died or were getting last rites. I cured his flukes, in a day or two and he was a great fish. I gave him away because my old copperband doesn't like competition. I also recently got these 3 shrimpfish covered in ich. One died the next day. No problem as I like parasites, they keep up the immune system. But that is a secret and I don't like to let it out.
I think way to much ink is wasted on parasite problems as they are so simple to cure but your fish should not get them in the first place. But you know how I feel about that so I don't want to get into it as I am trying to eat some fantastic stuffed calamari.



Nothing quite like stuffed calamari.

 

[Humblefish]

I cured his flukes, in a day or two and he was a great fish.

Just curious, how did you cure his flukes? All I have is a leftover burrito to eat for dinner, so I'm hungry for knowledge.

 

[Paul B]

To cure flukes, flounders ich etc in a day (or two) I just put the fish in a separate tank with copper/formalin and if I have it, quinicrine hydrochloride. If I don't have that I just use the copper/formalin but the important part is to run a diatom filter on that tank 24/7. Any tomites that are released don't have a chance as they get sucked into the filter where they die of boredom. The copper/formalin will force the fish to produce more slime while at the same time kill the parasites. The slime alone can do that but being the fish is infected it's immune system is compromised so the fish needs help. Usually the only time a fish should become infected is in a dealer's tank because they are way over stressed, especially if there aren't any good looking fish they can stare at and of course they are not eating correctly, if at all. You may not notice any flukes or parasites on the fish in 24 hours but I would keep the fish in there for 10 days. Just my opinion of course as I am an old senile guy who barely knows what a goldfish is.
I look for sick fish all the time at LFSs because you can sometimes get a great deal and unless the fish is receiving last rites, they can often be cured 100%

 

[Humblefish]

Treating with copper/formalin for 10 days and then transferring the fish out (before removing the 2 chemicals) should in theory eradicate most fish diseases. Also, running a diatom filter in conjunction is a good insurance policy. Have you tracked the lifespan of the fish you treat with formalin? Do they live to be a ripe old age?

 

[samba_dad]

So this is very timely for me as I am a hardcore believed in QT and I want a flasher wrasse for my tank. My QT process usually involves...

1) drip acclimation
2) formalin bath
3) transfer to QT
4) wait 2 days and start Prazipro treatment for 2 weeks
5) 50% water change and carbon for 2 days
6) cuprammonium treatment for 3 weeks
7) cuprasorb and carbon for 2 days
8) transfer to DT
Throughout the process I do 1 gallon water changes twice a day on the QT from my main DT (Apex and plumbing make this completely automated)

So, if I replace the copper treatment with TTM is this process still safe for a flasher wrasse?

 

[Humblefish]

So, if I replace the copper treatment with TTM is this process still safe for a flasher wrasse?

I would do TTM, combined with Prazipro at the onset of transfers 2 & 4: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/

Wrasses are known for being med sensitive, so this approach only exposes him to one chemical (Prazipro).

 

[samba_dad]

Awesome - thanks Humblefish! Starting TTM next week.

 

[samba_dad]

One more question I forgot to ask...what about the formalin?