Zoa and Pali not opening

[Micro Reef Tank]

Hi, for a couple weeks, specially my palis are not opening

The rock where they are, started to have a hard purple violet algae

Can it be the cause ?

The white rock parts we see, is were I tried to take the purple algae off, but it’s to difficult to do so

Can someone help?

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

Kh values on Salifert test
Started to change color at 0,55 = 6,9dKH
And changed to first pink at 0,52 = 7,3 dKH

And light pink at 0,50 = 7,7 dKH


For you all what mesure should I consider ?

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

Salinity

1.024/5 as always

Also checked with a densímeter to see if refractometer is ok

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

Temperature

A little high as it’s summer time

26,5c or 79,7 f

But fixing it with a fan

 

[Capitol Reef Corals]

Unfortunately I definitely think it is the purple algae on the rocks that are irritating the zoas. I would try to frag off all of the zoas that you can and make sure you don't have any of that purple algae stuff on them.

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

Unfortunately I definitely think it is the purple algae on the rocks that are irritating the zoas. I would try to frag off all of the zoas that you can and make sure you don't have any of that purple algae stuff on them.

Thanks Stephen

That’s what I think it’s causing it

I will see what I can do and search for more info about those purple algae and how to remove them

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

Gelidium pusillum
I thinks that’s the name of my purple algae

 

[slapman83]

your refractometer is not good as its meant to work with oil\vinegar\cooking salt rather then sea water (its ment to be calibrated 20c as you can see - Lab environment )
sea water refractometer is meant to be calibrated at 25c (same as our aquariums water temp), so your salinity readings are probably off.

you need to buy a good sea water refractometer such as the one red sea manufactures, then you need to calibrate it to 0ppm with RODI water at room temperature.

i bet your salinity is wrong which causes various parameters to be wrong which leads to chain reaction on few other things add the algae that bothers the zoas , you have a total mess.
the basic is salinity , you go from there and work your way up.

also judging by your lights seems like you have tons of whites - algae loves it and thrives , reduce these whites to contain algae.

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

your refractometer is not good as its meant to work with oil\vinegar\cooking salt rather then sea water (its ment to be calibrated 20c as you can see - Lab environment )
sea water refractometer is meant to be calibrated at 25c (same as our aquariums water temp), so your salinity readings are probably off.

you need to buy a good sea water refractometer such as the one red sea manufactures, then you need to calibrate it to 0ppm with RODI water at room temperature.

i bet your salinity is wrong which causes various parameters to be wrong which leads to chain reaction on few other things add the algae that bothers the zoas , you have a total mess.
the basic is salinity , you go from there and work your way up.

also judging by your lights seems like you have tons of whites - algae loves it and thrives , reduce these whites to contain algae.

Hi slapman83 and thanks for your hints

I use that refractometer for almost 2 years now and as it says it’s a auto temperature adjust I always thought it would be ok to use it here

And that 20c we are in the display, according to the instructions is the desirable ambient temperature of the room when we recalibrate the refractometer

I randomly check salt with a densimeter, also making the temperature conversion and it matches with the refractometer readings

When I make salt water I respect the Red Sea g/l of salt and in the end it matches with the readings

And I do all this for about two years now, and I never had an issue like this one

Regarding lights, I took the photo with an IPhone raising up the whites to try and have a better sight of the purple algae as they get dark on photos if taken with no adjustments

Now what I think it has caused this and that was what went different from this all two years :

I had a busy period that didn’t allow me to make water changes for almost one month

For the first time I could see with my eyes that the water wasn’t cristal. Even the glasses started to get light green/brown with glass algae

And also for the first time I got Nitrates above 20

And it seams I am getting Cyanobacteria for the first time in a tank corner

Photo taken with light adjustment

No light adjustment

Not forgetting that my tank is a 4,5G tank, so any variation can unbalance the system

Now, I made a big water change and cleaned the tank and filter system

And let’s see what will happen

 

[slapman83]

Hi slapman83 and thanks for your hints

I use that refractometer for almost 2 years now and as it says it’s a auto temperature adjust I always thought it would be ok to use it here

And that 20c we are in the display, according to the instructions is the desirable ambient temperature of the room when we recalibrate the refractometer

I randomly check salt with a densimeter, also making the temperature conversion and it matches with the refractometer readings

When I make salt water I respect the Red Sea g/l of salt and in the end it matches with the readings

And I do all this for about two years now, and I never had an issue like this one

i did the same for 2 years as well and while getting used to "my aquarium looks good" , understanding salinity measurement stepped up my reef dozens of %
I suggest you watch ,pay attention to details in the video and learn carefully about the use of term ATC and why sea water refr. is much different from yours.


especially pay attention from 2:46 which explains the meaning of ATC which was rooted over the years in the hobby with wrong perception

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

i did the same for 2 years as well and while getting used to "my aquarium ...

...with wrong perception

Thanks Slapman83 for your message

And Yes I have seen some posts about this issue

As I said I randomly check my water and refractometer with a densimeter

I know that it also isn’t the proper way to check salinity

But two methods that gives the same readings may mean that the real salinity of the water isn’t to different than real salinity

Densimeter reading 1,022

Refractometer reading almost 1,025

Now as you must know we have to convert the densimeter reading to water temperature

So, at 26c 1,022 is converted to 1,0246

And this is how I have been doing

 

[BillyReefer]

I believe i have read somewhere, that some refractrometers can adjust to the temperature of the water on it. I'm not sure, if it's true.

 

[slapman83]

Micro ,
when your basis is off set Due to various of reasons of course you will measure with both tools the same salinity if you prepare salt SG by your Ref.
If you first measuring with your Ref. a so called correct salinity you will probably measure the same with your densimeter.
besides , all those compensation tables are so easy to misread , i honestly think that if you will just purchase the appropriate Ref. you will either thank me or ask yourself why you didnt do that in the first place

in any case , good luck

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

Micro ,
when your basis is off set Due to various of reasons of course you will measure with both tools the same salinity if you prepare salt ...

...Ref. you will either thank me or ask yourself why you didnt do that in the first place

in any case , good luck

Thanks Slapman83

Before I spend money I am going to check water at a LFS that uses a 25c ref. Then will decide

Thanks for the tips

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

I believe i have read somewhere, that some refractrometers can adjust to the temperature of the water on it. I'm not sure, if it's true.

I BillyReefer and thanks for your comment

I think you are referring to this two, one with ATC and the other with no ATC automatic temperature compensation

But that compensation is for calibration according to the post I made with the instructions

The issue here now, is the 20c or 25c that is shown in the display of the Refractometer

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

Hi all

Definitely the problem is the dark purple algae

Does any one know how to remove it ?

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

Just found this article

Any experience on them ?

 

[John3]

No experience with that algae but I’d bet a hydrogen peroxide treatment would kill it. Your zoas also appear to have a brown covering which will cause them to not open. Peroxide will help that as well. Search up the instructions on a peroxide dip or spot treatment.

 

[Micro Reef Tank]

No experience with that algae but I’d bet a hydrogen peroxide treatment would kill it. Your zoas also appear to have a brown covering which will cause them to not open. Peroxide will help that as well. Search up the instructions on a peroxide dip or spot treatment.

Thanks John3 I am going to search for that

 

[HOOPDEEZ]

I had the same algae start to cover 2 zoa frags on the plugs. I dipped with peroxide and it helped for a bit, but it came back. Ultimately I threw out the frags, it is really a pain to deal with and it was strangling out the frags. I would do what you can to remove it. If I start to see it growing on my rocks I’ll probably try an emerald crab.