Zoas and lps melting.
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BluewaterLa
Active Member
A large water change would be best, the tiny trace amount of iodine in the salt mix is not going to make the problem worse as it is in correct ratio/ amount needed.
There could also be other factor in play with your tank condition though without all the details and intimate knowledge of your particular system making a accurate diagnosis to many of our issues is not going to happen online. We merely can make suggestions and try and nail down a possible source for you to explore as the problem.
I once had a tank that could not keep Zoanthids / palys of any kind as they would melt down in a matter of hours after being introduced into my tank.
All parameters were fine as far as test kits could tell, All existing SPS LPS and softies were thriving well and to this day I can not come to one certain conclusion as to what the heck was going on in that tank.
Today I am still employing the same methodology, maintenance, same salt brand and source water as I did back with that particular tank and I can keep such things now without any issues and they grow well along with all the other types of corals.
The only thing to date that I still can not keep is Xenia species for some weird reason, which I am fine with of course, it melts away just like the Zoa/ palys once did in the previous system.
Some say its from nutrient deficiency in my case with the two cases/ instances though I have for a long time now kept any system I maintain with a healthy balanced No3 and Po4 level, keeping all my corals healthy.
So the short of this is that while you were dosing something in likely excess without testing, there could be other reasons for your unfortunate mishap.
I would do 50% or more water change making sure that the SG, Temp and DKH levels match the current tank parameters before changing the water and this should give the corals the best chance at rebounding or salvaging the ones that are not too far gone.
Hope your tank pulls through without a total disaster,
Good luck and happy reefing
BluewaterLa/ Mike.
PS. you are correct that ALL of us make some bad decisions from time to time and even some bone headed mistakes. When it comes to this its like everything else....
There is those that have and those that will eventually.
There could also be other factor in play with your tank condition though without all the details and intimate knowledge of your particular system making a accurate diagnosis to many of our issues is not going to happen online. We merely can make suggestions and try and nail down a possible source for you to explore as the problem.
I once had a tank that could not keep Zoanthids / palys of any kind as they would melt down in a matter of hours after being introduced into my tank.
All parameters were fine as far as test kits could tell, All existing SPS LPS and softies were thriving well and to this day I can not come to one certain conclusion as to what the heck was going on in that tank.
Today I am still employing the same methodology, maintenance, same salt brand and source water as I did back with that particular tank and I can keep such things now without any issues and they grow well along with all the other types of corals.
The only thing to date that I still can not keep is Xenia species for some weird reason, which I am fine with of course, it melts away just like the Zoa/ palys once did in the previous system.
Some say its from nutrient deficiency in my case with the two cases/ instances though I have for a long time now kept any system I maintain with a healthy balanced No3 and Po4 level, keeping all my corals healthy.
So the short of this is that while you were dosing something in likely excess without testing, there could be other reasons for your unfortunate mishap.
I would do 50% or more water change making sure that the SG, Temp and DKH levels match the current tank parameters before changing the water and this should give the corals the best chance at rebounding or salvaging the ones that are not too far gone.
Hope your tank pulls through without a total disaster,
Good luck and happy reefing
BluewaterLa/ Mike.
PS. you are correct that ALL of us make some bad decisions from time to time and even some bone headed mistakes. When it comes to this its like everything else....
There is those that have and those that will eventually.
OP
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renato120
Valuable Member
Thank you so much for your help! I did a wayer change yesterday, I will do another one tomorrow. Hopefully corals will start getting better. No sign of sps bleaching yet. Just zoos and my candycanes.
The only way you are going to see them, is if you dip. O/W you're not going to see them. Just try it out. Can't hurt any more than dumping iodine in your tank. That's got to be playing some serious chaos In ur tank. Iodine will kill all bacteria. You've sterile your system.
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renato120
Valuable Member
Something is wrong! Doesnt corals need Iodine?
Maybe its not the same that Im dosing. Not the one people use to dip.
This is what I was using it:
I was told To use 1 drop per 25g.
Jk120
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I would do a 70% water change. With that much iodine in your tank. Right know you have nothing to lose. Just make sure salinity and temp is same. 70% water change.Something is wrong! Doesnt corals need Iodine?
Maybe its not the same that Im dosing. Not the one people use to dip.
This is what I was using it:
I was told To use 1 drop per 25g.
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renato120
Valuable Member
70 or 80% will probably finish killing everything that is melting. I still have hope. Some are high end zoos. All my sps are doing good. Not all the zoos are affected. A Least no sign yet.
Broadfield
Red Sea Reefer Consultant... Non Affiliated
This is taken from Seachem's website, describing their Reef Iodide product and explaining the issues with other "similar" products... note the second paragraph.
"Reef Iodide™ is a concentrated (8,000 mg/L) stabilized potassium iodide source for reef aquaria that will restore and maintain iodide levels to those found in natural sea water. It is formulated to provide a safe source of iodide that will not convert to toxic free iodine under storage or reef conditions. Iodine is as toxic as chlorine and should never be used in a reef system. However, iodide is as safe as chloride.
Most iodine supplements on the market are simply potassium iodide or a medicinal disinfectant commonly known as Lugol’s Solution. Lugol’s is a highly concentrated iodine/iodide solution that is highly toxic and intended for disinfection. Although such products are sold for use in reef aquaria, we believe the risks vastly outweigh the potential minor benefits.
Potassium iodide only products are a safer alternative but not very effective alone owing to the unstable nature of iodide in the aquarium environment. When added to an aquarium environment, iodide becomes unstable converting to elemental iodine (which is biocidal), iodate (which is useless to corals, toxic at elevated levels, and can't be tested for), and iodide which is the only form of iodine available to corals for uptake. These products' inherent instability makes them potentially dangerous to coral health.
Unlike competing products, Reef Iodide™ is complexed to a stabilizing compound in order to keep it in the iodide form when added to the aquarium. All of the product remains usable and fully bio-available."
"Reef Iodide™ is a concentrated (8,000 mg/L) stabilized potassium iodide source for reef aquaria that will restore and maintain iodide levels to those found in natural sea water. It is formulated to provide a safe source of iodide that will not convert to toxic free iodine under storage or reef conditions. Iodine is as toxic as chlorine and should never be used in a reef system. However, iodide is as safe as chloride.
Most iodine supplements on the market are simply potassium iodide or a medicinal disinfectant commonly known as Lugol’s Solution. Lugol’s is a highly concentrated iodine/iodide solution that is highly toxic and intended for disinfection. Although such products are sold for use in reef aquaria, we believe the risks vastly outweigh the potential minor benefits.
Potassium iodide only products are a safer alternative but not very effective alone owing to the unstable nature of iodide in the aquarium environment. When added to an aquarium environment, iodide becomes unstable converting to elemental iodine (which is biocidal), iodate (which is useless to corals, toxic at elevated levels, and can't be tested for), and iodide which is the only form of iodine available to corals for uptake. These products' inherent instability makes them potentially dangerous to coral health.
Unlike competing products, Reef Iodide™ is complexed to a stabilizing compound in order to keep it in the iodide form when added to the aquarium. All of the product remains usable and fully bio-available."
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renato120
Valuable Member
Thank you so much! Im going to do another water change tomorrow, and hope for the best. the ammount of money I have in these 3 tanks are way too high. If everything dies I will be out of the hobby. What I learned about this is to never trust anyone without triple checking before you do anything.
cilyjr
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Something is wrong! Doesnt corals need Iodine?
Maybe its not the same that Im dosing. Not the one people use to dip.
This is what I was using it:
I was told To use 1 drop per 25g.
You can dose iodine. I do. I also test for it.
Did whoever told to dose 1 drop per 25g mention that's usually weekly not daily? I dose less than 1/2 that.
pecan2phat
Valuable Member
Agreed with cilyjr!
Iodine is quickly deficient in most systems with a good proficient protein skimmer. While the dose should be 1 drop per 25g weekly vs daily, I have in the past dosed daily when I had some RTN issues with acros.
Even now with an softie/lps system and no protein skimmer, I dose lugols weekly without any adverse effects.
Iodine is quickly deficient in most systems with a good proficient protein skimmer. While the dose should be 1 drop per 25g weekly vs daily, I have in the past dosed daily when I had some RTN issues with acros.
Even now with an softie/lps system and no protein skimmer, I dose lugols weekly without any adverse effects.
rkpetersen
walked the sand with the crustaceans
New here. Recently got back into the hobby after a thirty year absence. Here's my experience with iodine. I consider this one of my tank's extinction events.
I test a lot. I like testing, and have worked in analytical labs on occasion when I was younger. In the last few months, I've tried out almost every hobbyist level marine test kit from Red Sea, Elos, Nyos, Giesemann, SeaChem, Salifert, and Lamotte. Compared the techniques used, the reproducibility of results, how close the results are too each other and my expectations, and so on. And eventually, I compared these results to concurrent samples sent for spectroscopy to Triton and other ICP-OES labs.
So while I'm testing, I'm also stocking my new tank, adjusting parameters, and trying out some additives. With my previous tanks decades ago, addition of both iodine and strontium, in small quantities, seemed to have positive effects on my livestock. So I started adding small doses to my current tank, at intervals. Much less than recommended on the product bottles. And I kept testing for iodine and strontium, with inconsistent results. The Red Sea iodine test technique is flawed, and will give you positive readings even when none is present. Other test kits from Salifert, Giesemann and SeaChem may give you low readings even with disastrously high levels of iodine present. (Also, strontium tests from Salifert and SeaChem will always read zero or low no matter what your actual level.)
One Saturday, I did my usual in-house testing. Got no iodine reading on two different tests I did that day, even though I'd been adding it. Figured it must have been removed by carbon/polyfilter. Took my first ever water sample to be sent off to Triton, which I'd recently read about, and mailed it. Then I proceeded to give my tank a bit more iodine and strontium (not lugol's! A supposedly 'safe' iodine additive.)
Less than an hour later, certain of my corals did not look at all well. It was pretty obvious from the timing that either the added iodine or strontium was the problem. Iodine being the more obviously toxic of the two. Proceeded to do many water changes. Most of the corals recovered, some did not and succumbed within a couple weeks.
Got my Triton results back 10 days or so later. Iodine level was 225! (should be 60). And not knowing it was in the toxic range, I had proceeded to add more!
Strontium, which hobbyist tests said was at 0, also came back high at 20 (should be 8). Probably not the cause of any problems, though.
Tin was also high, traced to rusting steel nuts on a return pump I had purchased new just 3 months earlier.
All these issues have since corrected, with guidance from several different OES labs. (My lithium is a bit high, but I've traced that to the salt I've been using, again by OES.) Surprisingly, the different labs' results can even vary considerably from each other, so what in fact is trvth?
Moral: Don't add elemental supplements for which there is no accurate way to track levels short of spectroscopy. (Yes, this probably sounds like a plug for the Triton method, although I don't use it myself.)
I test a lot. I like testing, and have worked in analytical labs on occasion when I was younger. In the last few months, I've tried out almost every hobbyist level marine test kit from Red Sea, Elos, Nyos, Giesemann, SeaChem, Salifert, and Lamotte. Compared the techniques used, the reproducibility of results, how close the results are too each other and my expectations, and so on. And eventually, I compared these results to concurrent samples sent for spectroscopy to Triton and other ICP-OES labs.
So while I'm testing, I'm also stocking my new tank, adjusting parameters, and trying out some additives. With my previous tanks decades ago, addition of both iodine and strontium, in small quantities, seemed to have positive effects on my livestock. So I started adding small doses to my current tank, at intervals. Much less than recommended on the product bottles. And I kept testing for iodine and strontium, with inconsistent results. The Red Sea iodine test technique is flawed, and will give you positive readings even when none is present. Other test kits from Salifert, Giesemann and SeaChem may give you low readings even with disastrously high levels of iodine present. (Also, strontium tests from Salifert and SeaChem will always read zero or low no matter what your actual level.)
One Saturday, I did my usual in-house testing. Got no iodine reading on two different tests I did that day, even though I'd been adding it. Figured it must have been removed by carbon/polyfilter. Took my first ever water sample to be sent off to Triton, which I'd recently read about, and mailed it. Then I proceeded to give my tank a bit more iodine and strontium (not lugol's! A supposedly 'safe' iodine additive.)
Less than an hour later, certain of my corals did not look at all well. It was pretty obvious from the timing that either the added iodine or strontium was the problem. Iodine being the more obviously toxic of the two. Proceeded to do many water changes. Most of the corals recovered, some did not and succumbed within a couple weeks.
Got my Triton results back 10 days or so later. Iodine level was 225! (should be 60). And not knowing it was in the toxic range, I had proceeded to add more!
Strontium, which hobbyist tests said was at 0, also came back high at 20 (should be 8). Probably not the cause of any problems, though.
Tin was also high, traced to rusting steel nuts on a return pump I had purchased new just 3 months earlier.
All these issues have since corrected, with guidance from several different OES labs. (My lithium is a bit high, but I've traced that to the salt I've been using, again by OES.) Surprisingly, the different labs' results can even vary considerably from each other, so what in fact is trvth?
Moral: Don't add elemental supplements for which there is no accurate way to track levels short of spectroscopy. (Yes, this probably sounds like a plug for the Triton method, although I don't use it myself.)
Jk120
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So sps are fine. There usually the first to go if it's a water parameters thing. When you say melting is that strings of tissue being released into water collum or are they shrinking and disappearing
five.five-six
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If you catch the problem in time, corals have a remarkable ability to recover.
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renato120
Valuable Member
The only thing I can do it right now are water changes... all my parameters are in check! I stopped dosing everything. To be honest dosing Iodine is the only thing I think is the problem. It can be something else... as of right now all my sps's are doing fine with good color. Half of my zoas are doing good so far. Candycanes are still melting, and some of my zoos colonies are going.
