72"x20"x23" rimless acrylic build

So I have the plumbing ready and tested it with fresh water and my pump does not do the job. I bought a waveline 10000 and there is just too much head pressure. So im looking for suggestions on powerful in sump pumps.

Ok so I think my problem may be that I just have four open 1" holes with no locline or nozzles, so I wont really feel any flow at the returns. Anyone concur with that? Im looming into the bigger waveline and going to email rlss to see if the 12000 will fix the issue or if I even have one. Could be that im turning over enough water.

of note ive been working with salty supply and the customer service has been excellent.

Posted are pics of final plumbing configuration.
 

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Ok so I think my problem may be that I just have four open 1" holes with no locline or nozzles, so I wont really feel any flow at the returns. Anyone concur with that? Im looming into the bigger waveline and going to email rlss to see if the 12000 will fix the issue or if I even have one. Could be that im turning over enough water.

of note ive been working with salty supply and the customer service has been excellent.

Posted are pics of final plumbing configuration.

I have the same pump from salty supply. Chris Sampson is great to deal with. I have a 100g total system and the pump runs my skimmer, feeds the refugium which is located above the sump, and produces enough flow in my tank. Keep in mind my DT is not nearly as big as yours but after feeding the skimmer and refugium the return line is split and then both of those are split agin.
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Also the return line in the over flows has 2 right angles.
 
Also I'm not sure I understand your return plumbing. Can you show us a pic of the front side or how you have the pump connected?
 
Just kidding I understand now. I think your problem is the way you have the manifold setup.
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Sorry for the bad drawing, but that's how I would do the return lines and manifold. Use a gate valve to control flow to your reactors (add gate vales as needed) and then use the pump controller to control the rest. Running your pump wide open shouldn't hurt if you use the gate valve to control the manifold and as long as your drains can handle it. Also of would avoid right angles as much as possible.
 
Just kidding I understand now. I think your problem is the way you have the manifold setup.
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1389767099.695778.jpg

Sorry for the bad drawing, but that's how I would do the return lines and manifold. Use a gate valve to control flow to your reactors (add gate vales as needed) and then use the pump controller to control the rest. Running your pump wide open shouldn't hurt if you use the gate valve to control the manifold and as long as your drains can handle it. Also of would avoid right angles as much as

thanks for the help, my plan is to go with the dc 12000 and adjust the play with the plumbing. After talking with Chris Im pretty sure my water is turning over enough, and I contacted rlss and they think the 12000 will handle the head pressure better. Hopefully I will have it worked out by this weekend
 
painted

So I painted the stand, what do ya think?
 

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Ok so I simplified the plumbing, the dc 12000 will be here tomorrow and I will be doing a fresh water test. If all goes well I will be gluing all the plumbing and moving the tank into the house.
 

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Rlss dc 12000 and new plumbing setup worked great, tank is in the house!
 

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Loving this build so far.
 
Excellent build quality, and I like the dimensions! Wider than a 125, and not too tall! Fill it up with some eye candy already!
 
Thanks, now on to the equipment, I will be installing the following:

Rlss r6 I skimmer
Rlss dc 12000 return
72" build my led 14000k
72" build my led super actinic
2 jebao wp40s
sump which is 47x18x16, with skimmer and fuge areas
gfo and carbon reactor made from old rodi
ato
titanium heater
ip cam

All controlled by neptune apex
 
Great build man. any new pics of the overflow and water running inside the house yet?

Not yet, I'm making saltwater right now. I'm also squaring away all my wiring, all my pumps are dc so that means finding places for the power supplies and controllers. My hope is to make the big transfer this weekend.

Of note, my tank is half filled with water and I turned on my wp40 and its really loud, I hope its because the tank is half full and empty. Anyone have noisy pumps on an acrylic tank?
 
almost ready to go

So dc 12000 is hooked up and rlss skimmer is in, now I start the wiring fun
 

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plumbing!

Ok so plumbing kicked my butt a little, but I won.

Lessons learned:

Glue and prime the pipe and fittings! Ya I know, I rushed to get my tank out of the garage and ended up replacing all return lines and their bulkheads. But at least its right now.

The beananimal overflow, wow I was pretty upset that I went this route at first. But after a little research its works great. At first when I killed power the full siphon would not start and the system eould stay unbalanced unless I manipulated the valves and top of overflow, what a pain! But I read about back pressure, THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO THE FUNCTION OF THE SYSTEM; IF YOUR OVERFLOW PIPE ID TO FEEP UNDERWATER YOU WONT GET FULL SIPHON! This really should be the start of any beananimal overflow conversation. So what I did was drill holes in bottom of the overflow pipe from the water line in the sump down to bottom of pipe and taadaa it works great.

Reactors, my reactors siphon water into the sump when system is powered off, this is not good. Anyone have any solutions?

Next task, clean up apex and wiring. Then pretty pictures of aquascape and livestock.
 

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For your reactors...just buy the anti-siphon valve...pretty simple for the tubing
 
What do ya think?
 

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