8 Bulb Starfire - need help to get working

[hrdneglcry]

I have an older Fauna Marin 8 bulb T5 unit that is not working. I purchased it used and it worked for the other owner before sitting not being used for a long time. It had 6 bulbs when I got it. I plug it in with the dual plugs. Each plug causes a click like you would hear when a unit lights up. But no lights come on. The old owner suggested that they were all blown. I purchased two new bulbs as he said it needed at least two to power on. But it won't power on. I move one of the bulbs to every other empty spot in case they are paired but I won't turn on. There was green corrosion on the plugs that I used a wire brush on. There seems to be some corrosion inside some of the tombstone receptacles. But I don't know how to get in there. I was told its unlikely both ballasts would fail simultaneously seeing that it worked when stored. But I can't get it running. It clicks with each of the two plugs going into the wall. But thats it. I could used some guidance. I don't see any fuses. The company has no information on it as its old. Its the Starfire.

 

[hrdneglcry]

It has 4 ballasts. Maybe I just got ripped off. Guy said it worked when he put it away. Says maybe bulbs blown. Bought two new bulbs. Nothing. Oh well was a nice nice was looking forward to seeing it running. Paid $50. Guess I didn't get ripped off too badly.

 

[oreo54]

It has 4 ballasts. Maybe I just got ripped off. Guy said it worked when he put it away. Says maybe bulbs blown. Bought two new bulbs. Nothing. Oh well was a nice nice was looking forward to seeing it running. Paid $50. Guess I didn't get ripped off too badly.

Yea bought a tv at an auction once. Son said "worked for his dad"...
NEVER worked...
Worst part is the model had known electrical design issues and hard to repair.

Anyways ballasts should be fairly cheap and if I remember correctly they were Osram/Sylvania not some Chinese stuff.

$50 for the shell is probably worth it.

That said 4 dead ballasts is really really unexpected.


Time to disassemble..

 

[nereefpat]

I would start with 8 new bulbs and see what comes on. You can put a voltage meter on the output of the ballasts.

You can always fix a T5 fixture, so that's the good thing.

 

[hrdneglcry]

I would start with 8 new bulbs and see what comes on. You can put a voltage meter on the output of the ballasts.

You can always fix a T5 fixture, so that's the good thing.

Ok I am for that, but. It should be able to run on two brand new. The last two ports were modified to run T5 leds so the previous owner never ran any bulbs in that part. So presumably it ran on 6 bulbs. I can buy 4 more new and test but thats a lot of money if I am unable to return them (if fixture doesn't work). I checked the ballast price. Its high. They are dual ballasts and there are 4. About a $35 each ballast possibly more with shipping. Although it seems improbable that 4 have failed from not being used. I agree the bulbs are a good place to start. I don't know where to attach the meter in the ballasts. I will include a pic of the connections.

 

[nereefpat]

Ok I am for that, but. It should be able to run on two brand new.

Maybe, depending on how it's wired.

I can buy 4 more new and test but thats a lot of money if I am unable to return them (if fixture doesn't work).

They can be cheap GE bulbs. Just match the wattage.

I checked the ballast price. Its high. They are dual ballasts and there are 4. About a $35 each ballast possibly more with shipping. Although it seems improbable that 4 have failed from not being used. I agree the bulbs are a good place to start. I don't know where to attach the meter in the ballasts. I will include a pic of the connections.

You don't have to use the exact ballast. Workhorse or ATI are good ones. Workhorse makes a 4x 54watt, so you could get 2 of those and rewire the thing. That would be a worst case scenario. I would start with all new bulbs.

Now, it could just be a loose connection somewhere, or broken switch or who knows. I agree it's weird that all 4 ballasts would go bad. But, it sounds like previous owner monkeyed with the fixture.

 

[oreo54]

Carefully Check the blue/ brown wires to make sure you get ac at the ballasts.

Hidden fuse/ bad power switch?

Really need whole wiring scheme including fans and I believe they are regulated to temp.

Yea just get cheap daylight bulbs for testing.

 

[hrdneglcry]

Carefully Check the blue/ brown wires to make sure you get ac at the ballasts.

Hidden fuse/ bad power switch?

Really need whole wiring scheme including fans and I believe they are regulated to temp.

Yea just get cheap daylight bulbs for testing

Carefully Check the blue/ brown wires to make sure you get ac at the ballasts.

Hidden fuse/ bad power switch?

Really need whole wiring scheme including fans and I believe they are regulated to temp.

Yea just get cheap daylight bulbs for testing.

Yeah I just bought the two bulbs at Home Depot. Figured I could return them. Just to test. I will try to test the ballast with the multimeter. This light has no on switch. I can't find a fuse. I will post the video I made for the seller if I can. Do I just put the probe on the brown and the white to test the ballast? I did fnd the ballasts in Bulkreef so thank you ALL for your posts. I will test them if I can find how. I will get 4 lights. Making 6 total. Last guy ran it with 6. The leds I think were modified by the first owner. Last guy never ran them. Here is video. You can hear it click as if clicking in. Maybe best to put the lights in and go from there.

 

[oreo54]

Those look like relays that are just for the fans afaict..But need to do some wire chasing..
120v coil .. not making a lot of sense to me atm..

For reference orig ballast ..

 

[oreo54]

Since I'm still doubting all 4 ballasts are bad (well it is possible) the blue/brown (white/black above usm4-2 lamp) side should be probed w/ a vom to verify AC to the ballasts first.

 

[hrdneglcry]

It came with 6 bulbs that worked when it was last used. Here is one schematic I have. I gather that I need to probe the blue and the brown on each. It does have a dimmable switch. But it does nothing to turn it. Some power is getting to the unit as you can hear when its plugged in. I will try more new bulbs. Maybe that will get it. If not I guess ballast test is next thing.

 

[hrdneglcry]

Update: put the bulbs in new all and it doesn't run. I'll add I only put 6 in because two are led only. But it waa run like this rior and shouldn't matter anyway. Nor should three ballasts be bad.

 

[hrdneglcry]

Well I put in the 6 bulbs and still only the click.

 

[oreo54]

StarFire T5 lighting from Fauna Marin seen in the wild | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

One of the newest lighting devices to appear is Fauna Marin’s Starfire Extreme fixture. It has a LED Shimmer (flickering) effect or Moonlight ( controlled over internal Ballast and external control…

reefbuilders.com

Knob is for fan speed.

The ballasts aren't dimmable.
What's in the small white box...output

 

[hrdneglcry]

StarFire T5 lighting from Fauna Marin seen in the wild | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

One of the newest lighting devices to appear is Fauna Marin’s Starfire Extreme fixture. It has a LED Shimmer (flickering) effect or Moonlight ( controlled over internal Ballast and external control…

reefbuilders.com

Knob is for fan speed.

The ballasts aren't dimmable.
What's in the small white box...output

It says LED power supply so it must be the modification for the last two ports for LED T5's.

 

[hrdneglcry]

It says LED power supply so it must be the modification for the last two ports for LED T5's.

or it might be for the moonlight which is led. the wires go to the moonlight

 

[oreo54]

or it might be for the moonlight which is led. the wires go to the moonlight

What does the output say?
Prob runs the moonlight Led and the fans.

Saying LED driver can be different things. Output 12v DC 2A switching power supply could be a "led driver"
One that says like: Output 12-38V DC 500mA is a "proper" driver..

If the 2 (l,R) outer sockets had led tube in they would have either left the ballast or pulled it and bypassed the ballast for them. Certainty wasn't "stock" but a later mod. Could be why the reflectors there are missing since they wouldn't be needed with the LED tubes.

 

[hrdneglcry]

What does the output say?
Prob runs the moonlight Led and the fans.

Saying LED driver can be different things. Output 12v DC 2A switching power supply could be a "led driver"
One that says like: Output 12-38V DC 500mA is a "proper" driver..

If the 2 (l,R) outer sockets had led tube in they would have either left the ballast or pulled it and bypassed the ballast for them. Certainty wasn't "stock" but a later mod. Could be why the reflectors there are missing since they wouldn't be needed with the LED tubes.

I took the reflectors out to see the ballasts. The led sockets are the last two on the left. I will include a PIC of the box. It definitely runs the moonlight as the wires run from it directly to the moonlight. When I test the ballast I use the blue and the brown wire on top of each ballast. Set on OHMs right? Does the unit need to be powered in or off. On off all ballasts read 0 OHMs which I think is correct for checking ballasts.

 

[oreo54]

OK proper driver but also a dual driver.. Constant current range up to a V(f) of 4V (run 1 3W led)
After that constant 6V out.

Blue and brown to the ballast will be line voltage.. Use AC voltage setting.
Be careful since this is like testing an extension cord without an end and plugged into the wall.

WHILE UNPLUGGED just remove one set of blue/brown wires by pushing down on the quick release button (see image).
Actually that one looks sort of melted which is an issue..

If you never worked w/ live AC I'd recommend NOT doing it but your choice.
Just don't short anything or grab any bare wires..

No you can't use ohms to test electronic ballasts..
Best way to test a ballast is to replace it with a known good ballast..

Just trying to figure out IF you even have power to the ballast..

 

[hrdneglcry]

May I ask, there is bare wire where the wires go in. It isn't much but the probe can get contact with it. Without disconnecting. Would that work?