About to give up
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Caseyoidae
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+1 for valve on main siphon. It's not really optional unless your a physics genius lol
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Brew12
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Went back and was re-reading this thread. I wanted to clarify this question.
The height in your display tank will be set by the level of the teeth on the weir. Increasing flow should only have a minor impact on the height of the water.
miPapareef
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Some of your questions are about water level in the display tank.
That level is set by where the overflow slots are located and the flow rate.
Basically how the tank was drilled and overflow mounted sets the water level in the display.
At the rated max flow rate (I see 1000gpm listed), you won't be above half of the way up the slots. At zero flow the level would be at the bottom of the slots, assuming the return line is not lower.
A little picture for your reference.
That level is set by where the overflow slots are located and the flow rate.
Basically how the tank was drilled and overflow mounted sets the water level in the display.
At the rated max flow rate (I see 1000gpm listed), you won't be above half of the way up the slots. At zero flow the level would be at the bottom of the slots, assuming the return line is not lower.
A little picture for your reference.
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sternicus
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Huh, that's very confusing. Ive seen pictures and videos where the flow was almost at the top of the teeth on the overflow box. Oh well, thanks for your help anyway
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sternicus
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If I add two ball valves to the two drain inputs will this help with the noise of the drains, assuming I correctly establish a bean animal setup?
Brew12
Electrical Gru
You really only need a valve on the full siphon drain so 1 will do. Your goal will be to have very little flow through the trickle drain and none through the emergency drain so no valves needed in those 2.
If I add two ball valves to the two drain inputs will this help with the noise of the drains, assuming I correctly establish a bean animal setup?
Brew12
Electrical Gru
If you get it set up right, it should be very quiet, and no flushing. If it isn't, keep asking questions because we know that overflow will work just fine and silently.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
A full siphon is very quiet by its nature, especially when the discharge is underwater.
This is how you want to set up your system once you get the valve installed.
Open the valve all the way
Adjust your pump speed to your desired flow through the sump. It will be noisy at this point, but that is ok.
Slowly start closing the valve while either watching or checking the level in the overflow box. Stop opening it when level is rising slowly.
Watch the level rise until it starts going down the trickle drain (middle one on yours). It should be quiet at this point, btw.
When the water starts going down the trickle drain it should stop rising.
If the trickle drain has too much water going down it and is noisy, open the valve a tiny bit.
If level starts going back down (flushing) close the valve a tiny bit.
You may need to make some adjustments as the tank ages and the pipes get some bio growth.
Use a gate valve. A ball valve will not give you precise enough control. Once installed, dial in your DC pump to the approximate flow that you want. Adjust the gate valve from full open, closing it in small increments giving it time to adjust to the new setting. When you get to the point where you begin to get a small trickle through the secondary drain, it should get quieter. Now make small adjustments as needed to make it silent.
miPapareef
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Noise comes from turbulent water flow.
An example is over a waterfall, like the drop from your DT level to the level in the overflow box. If that fall is too big you'll hear a waterfall there. The solution for this is to raise the water level in the overflow box, which means adjusting the secondary drain height.
Another source of noise in air entrainment in the drains. That's the gurgaling noise or just a splashing sound. The solution is a valve to reduce the flow of the primary drain until is stays in a full siphon and doesn't suck air. Once that's set then the secondary drain may start to make noise the solution is to open the valve on the primary drain slightly.
Another source of noise is air trapped in the drain lines. If the drains have horizontal runs or the outlets are too far below the water line then air will get trapped and cause noise. This solution involves modifying your plumbing.
Lastly the discharge of the drains can make turbulence in your sump. This can be if the pipe is not far enough below the water line do the sump. The solution is to lower the pipe below the water line of the sump.
An example is over a waterfall, like the drop from your DT level to the level in the overflow box. If that fall is too big you'll hear a waterfall there. The solution for this is to raise the water level in the overflow box, which means adjusting the secondary drain height.
Another source of noise in air entrainment in the drains. That's the gurgaling noise or just a splashing sound. The solution is a valve to reduce the flow of the primary drain until is stays in a full siphon and doesn't suck air. Once that's set then the secondary drain may start to make noise the solution is to open the valve on the primary drain slightly.
Another source of noise is air trapped in the drain lines. If the drains have horizontal runs or the outlets are too far below the water line then air will get trapped and cause noise. This solution involves modifying your plumbing.
Lastly the discharge of the drains can make turbulence in your sump. This can be if the pipe is not far enough below the water line do the sump. The solution is to lower the pipe below the water line of the sump.
I have the medium size overflow. What I see in this pic. I drilled my tank so the external box was tight to the tank trim. This keeps my waterline even with the trim. Yours looks like it's down a little. Add a gate valve for the sound and you might need to add something to block the weir being these overflow boxes has large ones.
mcarroll
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I did misread at the beginning about which overflow you had (still sorry 
), but if you really don't wanna quit anything but this over-complex drain system, then a little bit surprisingly my advice earlier is the simplest and will work for your drain setup without anymore major changes. (A few things might be removed if needed, actually.)
Personally I'm not a fan of these kinds of drain setups, so IMO don't feel bad about leaving that whole idea in the dust.
Mostly I don't like them due to the complexity and cost....but also because they aren't really that necessary in most cases.
They were a really good idea before the days of powerheads.
Cut flow down to 2x to 4x the display size in GPH. It's almost a sure thing that the drains will just run silent with no more bother at all. At most you could have some little bubbles in the sump (easy to catch). Removing the complicated parts from on top of the drains (i.e. making one or more holes into plain open drains) might make it work better in this mode.
But once you get it running like this there should be very close to zero noise and absolutely no flushing/gurgling/splashing.
It's worth knowing that drain flows do tend to smooth out over time as bacteria coat the pipes and make everything slick!
), but if you really don't wanna quit anything but this over-complex drain system, then a little bit surprisingly my advice earlier is the simplest and will work for your drain setup without anymore major changes. (A few things might be removed if needed, actually.)Personally I'm not a fan of these kinds of drain setups, so IMO don't feel bad about leaving that whole idea in the dust.
Mostly I don't like them due to the complexity and cost....but also because they aren't really that necessary in most cases.
They were a really good idea before the days of powerheads.
Cut flow down to 2x to 4x the display size in GPH. It's almost a sure thing that the drains will just run silent with no more bother at all. At most you could have some little bubbles in the sump (easy to catch). Removing the complicated parts from on top of the drains (i.e. making one or more holes into plain open drains) might make it work better in this mode.
But once you get it running like this there should be very close to zero noise and absolutely no flushing/gurgling/splashing.
It's worth knowing that drain flows do tend to smooth out over time as bacteria coat the pipes and make everything slick!
Big G
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+1 I have the same Eshopps overflow. You need to be able to adjust the flow through 2 of the drain lines. The drain line with the red pipe is the emergency that dumps directly into the middle chamber of the sump. Here's a pic from before I filled the tank. Hope this helps.
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sternicus
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Well great news! I stuck with it, new design and I got it legit whisper silent. Problem is, I turned it off to practice a power outage, now it has a slight gurgle again, any idea why!
