Yea , if I sounded hard , it's not a Bash or flame. It's a concern. A whole lot of us have been there and we like to see reefs thrive. Reefers too.
Alk and light issues
- Thread starter Fishhands
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Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
Same here. When there's a problem, my analytical mind wheels start turning, I become focused and very much to the point. (Drives my wife nuts sometimes! Lol) just want to solve the issue.
But in life ......
Hard problems don't always have easy answers. Slow and steady, one thing at a time.
glb
7500 Club Member
If you can swing a Hanna Checker for alk and Phosphate I'd recommend it. I'd also recommend Salifert for Ca, Mg, and nitrates, and a refractometer for salinity. You need very accurate readings for the kind of coral you want to keep. I had a tank crash due to chloramines in the water that made it through the RODI unit. If the tank has never thrived, there's been something off from the beginning. It could be the water you're using. That's why everyone needs to know the water source to help you out. The more information we have, the better we can figure things out!
No worries. I never felt picked on. Trust me, when/if someone asks an obvious question my initial reaction is "did you plug it in?" Or something sarcastic. Sometimes if im looking for something i should check my hand first. This is my 4th reef in 10 yrs. It just never took off. I blame the lights for making me mess with parameters. The other tanks were all successful but ran pc lights. Softies and lps. Bought this cube took off pc hood and bought cheap leds. I never tested anything in those tanks except sg. Back to now... i am uaing ro/di new system bought 4 months ago. Pressure is 75 and
1- 2 tds pre di resin. Water has choramine, but removed.(per chlorine test Strip) I mentioned that a few of the rocks are quarts . I have never used it before but ut looked good and all the crystals looked like bacteria spaces. Could silica be an issue? Test kits are good until 12/2018. The alk did change from pink to orange though. Read sg with atc refractometer. Thats even new and calibrated to solution. Used to use an io swing hydrometer and io salt. Used to use tap water with conditioner drops. Before i ran petco carbon. Now its brs rox.8. It seems like the more tech or high accuracy items i use the worse it gets.
1- 2 tds pre di resin. Water has choramine, but removed.(per chlorine test Strip) I mentioned that a few of the rocks are quarts . I have never used it before but ut looked good and all the crystals looked like bacteria spaces. Could silica be an issue? Test kits are good until 12/2018. The alk did change from pink to orange though. Read sg with atc refractometer. Thats even new and calibrated to solution. Used to use an io swing hydrometer and io salt. Used to use tap water with conditioner drops. Before i ran petco carbon. Now its brs rox.8. It seems like the more tech or high accuracy items i use the worse it gets.
Lol. Right?
Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
The quartz rocks shouldn't be any problem. They should be inert. I really think that what you said is the core of your problems, messing with the water pramaters and lights caused your issues.
Going forward you should focus on keeping your water pramaters as stable as can be. As far as the lights, #saltyfilmfolks has given good advise on them. Using a LUX meter is a good thing and can guide you on what to do.
Going forward you should focus on keeping your water pramaters as stable as can be. As far as the lights, #saltyfilmfolks has given good advise on them. Using a LUX meter is a good thing and can guide you on what to do.
Here's a easier way to set the light.
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showt...ux.-Setting-Your-Leds-and-Lights-on-the-Cheap
http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showt...ux.-Setting-Your-Leds-and-Lights-on-the-Cheap
I will say, I have had only two lights that despite all other parameters in line, did not seem to grow coral.
I assume these numbers are at 100 percent. I only want 30 at 12". Since the whites are brighter and i only want them at 5 or 6. What should i set blues at to reach that thirty-ish percent? I know blues put out less par or lux, so i should go above 30 on them but by how much? Atleast until i get a meter and can adjust.
I would set them at around 30 or 40 to till you can meter.
The spectrum listed is at a 1:1 w b ratio. You can set that by eye
Look for the $15 Luxmeter that is either 100,000 or 200,000 max.
Set by eye.
Most folks run a six to eight hour peak at a specific par. Make the tank look great for that peak, and then adjust the intensity.
Then if it's ramping , decide how much more time to give it plus the amount of time you want blue only or some violet only.
If it helps. Draw a little graph of the time and peak inteansiy.
I don't want to J point any B fingers at J anyone
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