Back at it! Peroxide vrs cyanobacteria

[twilliard]

This is not about algae

 

[malira]

Chemi-Clean may cost more but who cares?

The Cost is Trivial!

I have heard of quite a few tanks crashing because people were messing around with Peroxide.

So unless Algae was so bad and I tried everything the only time I would ever consider using Peroxide is if I was so Mad I was going to take the Tank Down.

Then at that Point who cares if you Crash the Tank since you are Taking it Down Anyways.

I will stick with Chemi-Clean.

Yes, It costs a few Dollars more but it works and I can sleep at Night knowing my Tank Will Not Crash.

I've not tried either but you can also find tanks that gave crashed with chemi-clean. Even on this forum.

 

[twilliard]

Most tank crashes are from misuse of products and lack of attention
This is why I spend so much time on any one given subject.
H2O2 is safe when properly educated on its use and interactions

 

[that Reef Guy]

Most tank crashes are from misuse of products and lack of attention
This is why I spend so much time on any one given subject.
H2O2 is safe when properly educated on its use and interactions

I am also Concerned that it would Kill Beneficial Bacteria giving you an Ammonia Spike.

I have used it to Dip Zoanthid Frags Before and Everything and I Mean Everything Immediately Dies and Floats Up Top in the Peroxide Dip.

So I am guessing it would Kill the Beneficial Bacteria too since Everything Else Dies.

That is Scary!

 

[TheEngineer]

I am also Concerned that it would Kill Beneficial Bacteria giving you an Ammonia Spike.

I have used it to Dip Zoanthid Frags Before and Everything and I Mean Everything Immediately Dies and Floats Up Top in the Peroxide Dip.

So I am guessing it would Kill the Beneficial Bacteria too since Everything Else Dies.

That is Scary!

You have to think about the relative concentrations though. It would be the equivalent of 1 drop of H2O2 in a cup of water.

 

[twilliard]

The population of good bacteria vastly outweighs the bad.
I will identify the good, culture and test as I move along in this.
As of right now through my specimens cyanobacteria dies microbes live (even the nematodes!)

 

[twilliard]

I am also Concerned that it would Kill Beneficial Bacteria giving you an Ammonia Spike.

I have used it to Dip Zoanthid Frags Before and Everything and I Mean Everything Immediately Dies and Floats Up Top in the Peroxide Dip.

So I am guessing it would Kill the Beneficial Bacteria too since Everything Else Dies.

That is Scary!

A lot more survives than one may think.
Stay tuned as this moves forward!

 

[BBASH]

I battled cyano for year.s chemiclean cleared it up but only to return a cpl of months later. I started dosing peroxide @ 25 ml daily for 250 gallon system and slowly bumped it up to 50 ml it. took about 4 months to clear up and I have not seen any sign of it since. it's Been about 6 months since it cleared up . I dose at night when lights are out.

 

[reefwiser]

An what percent of peroxide are you dosing?

 

[BBASH]

Basic peroxide off the shelf at the pharmacy

 

[twilliard]

I battled cyano for year.s chemiclean cleared it up but only to return a cpl of months later. I started dosing peroxide @ 25 ml daily for 250 gallon system and slowly bumped it up to 50 ml it. took about 4 months to clear up and I have not seen any sign of it since. it's Been about 6 months since it cleared up . I dose at night when lights are out.

A single chain of cyanobacteria consists of hundreds of thylakoids
And when you see either the red or green mat it has already become millions of chains.
The numbers are overwhelming
H2O2 from what I am seeing breaks down the thylakoids down to the nucleoid which make the cell render useless

 

[Dayson]

I am no chemist but I can speak to my personal experience. I HAD what I think WAS Dino. After trying everything I can imagine I decided to give H2O2 a try. The results are amazing. My tank has been algae free for almost a month now.

When I was fighting the outbreak I was blowing off the corals 2-3 times a day just to keep them alive and they looked terrible. No PE and dull colors. I started dosing 1ml/10g twice a day for 10 days. I did not change anything else. Continued to skim and changed filter socks as needed. It took about 3 days to start seeing results but than it happened. The tank became spotless. Sand is as white as it has ever been, PE and bright colors are back!

I did not lose anything during the treatment. I have Acros, monti, Cyphastrea, birdsnest, coco worm, BTA, Euphyllia, shrooms, favia, Zoas,chalice, snails, hermits, emerald crabs, shrimp, fish. All are thriving about a month a after treatment.

As others said the Zoas did close for about an hour but bounced back quickly. Just as an experiment I dipped some Zoas I did not really care about in straight H2O2. They were seriously ticked but lived.

It truly does seem to be a miracle cure. At least in my tank!

 

[marinelife]

What about cleaner shrimp?

 

[Dayson]

What about cleaner shrimp?

I have a skunk cleaner that did not show any negative signs.

 

[Hawain_Rob]

How many mils would I need for a 38g IM tank I have? I truly hate cyano.

 

[marinelife]

Thanks, I think I am going to try this. I have been battling cyano for months with nothing helping.

 

[Retro Reefer]

How many mils would I need for a 38g IM tank I have? I truly hate cyano.

3.8 mil

 

[that Reef Guy]

I've not tried either but you can also find tanks that gave crashed with chemi-clean. Even on this forum.

Tanks Crash from Not using Air Stones.

I read that After 1 Minute of Dosing Chemi-Clean about 75 Percent of the Oxygen is Stripped from the Tank.

I do not think that many people realize how serious this is.

Just add Airstones and you will be Fine.

I have never had any Issues Using Chemi-Clean.

 

[twreefer]

A single chain of cyanobacteria consists of hundreds of thylakoids
And when you see either the red or green mat it has already become millions of chains.

In that case, I have "beellions and beellions" of chains (with apologies to Carl Sagan).

I find my case interesting (to me at least). My 90g DT has NEVER had ANY sign of cyano. However, the middle chamber of my sump is a bright red mat, while my first and last chambers are also cyano-free. I have removed the mat just to have it return. I keep wondering why only my middle sump chamber and never my DT. The biggest difference in the two is lighting. My DT has AI Hydras, and I hit it with heavy doses of Violet and UV. My sump however is only fluorescent (5000k I think) over my middle chamber, while the cyano-free sections only get indirect light. Recently I have just been ignoring it to see what would happen (hoping it doesn't spread to my DT). You would think the cyano would be in the water column and would have to spread to the DT, yet it does not. My sump gets a pretty darn good mat going (sides and bottom and even on water surface), to the point where the flow lifts it up like a sheet. After just letting it run wild in the sump for weeks, I still see no signs in the DT.

I keep wondering if I should simply change out the light in my sump, maybe add some UV, and the problem might go away? Are others who have cyano problems using UV lighting or no?

 

[DannyB]

I have been struggling with cyano for about as long as my tank has been up, 2 years. I have had UV on it for at least 6 months. I have used cyanoclean (KZ) pretty solid for a month with no relief. I have been thinking of going the chemiclean route recently but I really don't feel comfortable using it. Everytime I see someone suggest that I need to increase flow and reduce nutrients it puts me in the mood to smash faces.

I may give the H2O2 a shot. I don't really have any issues with any other algaes, so maybe this will be something which swings the momentum in this battle my direction.

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