BEan Animal Help

GlassMunky

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Having an issue with trying to tune the bean animal drain.
I start the pump slow, and build up to full push, and adjustt he gate valve so that everything is running fine with a quiet full siphon. all good.


I turn the pump off to simulate a power outage or a feed or whatever, and then when i turn the pump back on it does this where it seems to fully bypass the full siphon and durso and goes all through the dry standpipe. whats going on?

on the plus side, no leaks in my plumbing job
 
And of course R2R won’t allow you to upload a video taken on your iPhone?
So I don’t even know how to share with you the video of what’s going on. :(
 
Pictures of your setup might help identify any issues:)

It is normal for the full siphon to take a little bit longer to start after an outage but it's not normal for it to continually run down the secondary.
 
like i said i cant figure out how to upload anything to here since R2R wont let me upload something off my phone
 
Can you take a picture of your setup?
 
On the main siphon line, the pipe that goes below the water line in the sump looks to extend quite far. Can you get a closer picture of that? If the outlet is more than an inch or two below the water line, the air can't purge and the siphon will take a long long time to start.
 
On the main siphon line, the pipe that goes below the water line in the sump looks to extend quite far. Can you get a closer picture of that? If the outlet is more than an inch or two below the water line, the air can't purge and the siphon will take a long long time to start.
its a standard trigger sump????
 
I will second the possibility of the pipes being too deep but I also notice and what might also be causing the issue which would be compounded if the pipe is too deep into the sump, your main siphon appears to be reduced part way down.... the smaller pipe will be more susceptible to being too deep into the sump water.

And what type of sump it is is irrelevant as they are stock and everyone runs different water levels in there sumps. If your water level is higher, the inlet pipes need to be adjusted accordingly. I would get a measurement of how deep the pipe goes into the water, pull it out if possible and starting roughly an inch below your waterline, cut little slices in the PVC about an inch or so apart. This allows the air to escape easier and still muffles the sound.

Essentially the water is doing what water does, takes the path of least resistance. Your larger unobstructed secondary and emergency lines are a much easier path than trying to overcome the pressure of the smaller pipe.
 
Having an issue with trying to tune the bean animal drain.
I turn the pump off to simulate a power outage or a feed or whatever, and then when i turn the pump back on it does this where it seems to fully bypass the full siphon and durso and goes all through the dry standpipe. whats going on?

There may not be enough height difference inside the overflow box between the inlet for your full siphon and the inlet to your secondary drain. If they're too close in height, the water level rises to the secondary before the siphon can establish itself in the siphon line. If you have two upsidedown ells for your intake, remember that the water height has to rise up inside the ells to start the siphon. I put my siphon intake as low as I can inside the overflow box.

I can't tell from your build thread how deep your return lines extend into the sump. They should be just below the water level; maybe an inch or so. If they're too deep you create a backpressure that can interfere with proper function.
 
There may not be enough height difference inside the overflow box between the inlet for your full siphon and the inlet to your secondary drain. If they're too close in height, the water level rises to the secondary before the siphon can establish itself in the siphon line. If you have two upsidedown ells for your intake, remember that the water height has to rise up inside the ells to start the siphon. I put my siphon intake as low as I can inside the overflow box.

I can't tell from your build thread how deep your return lines extend into the sump. They should be just below the water level; maybe an inch or so. If they're too deep you create a backpressure that can interfere with proper function.

Another excellent point I was going to mention but didn't have any picture to go off of. A pic of the interior of the overflow would be nice as well.;Snaphappy
 
There may not be enough height difference inside the overflow box between the inlet for your full siphon and the inlet to your secondary drain. If they're too close in height, the water level rises to the secondary before the siphon can establish itself in the siphon line. If you have two upsidedown ells for your intake, remember that the water height has to rise up inside the ells to start the siphon. I put my siphon intake as low as I can inside the overflow box.

I can't tell from your build thread how deep your return lines extend into the sump. They should be just below the water level; maybe an inch or so. If they're too deep you create a backpressure that can interfere with proper function.
the main drain has a U so that it is pulling from the lowest possible point in the box.
and the main drain is reduced to 1" for the full siphon
 
the main drain has a U so that it is pulling from the lowest possible point in the box.
and the main drain is reduced to 1" for the full siphon

Any chance you can provide a picture of inside the overflow?? If the pipes at the bottom of the drains only go into the water 1-2" than the issue is elsewhere.
 
Josh beat me to it. That reducer cuts the water pressure by a lot meaning less to push out the air.

i figured for safety reasons itd be better to have the emergency drains larger than the main siphon drain so that they could handle more flow in case something blocked the first pipe.
thats why we went with a 1" full siphon
 

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