Good point. Look closely at UL labels for misspellings - a sign of a fake. Some authentic labels have a hologram and/or color shifting ink.Not to mention in China they print out fake UL labels all the time.
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Good point. Look closely at UL labels for misspellings - a sign of a fake. Some authentic labels have a hologram and/or color shifting ink.Not to mention in China they print out fake UL labels all the time.
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To be fair, just about everything that you own that turns on is chock full of those cheap Chinese electronics components, especially capacitors. China is the largest manufacturer and exporter of electronic components on the planet, and they get used in just about everything. Your “made in USA” or “made in GERMANY” electronics are mainly just assembled in the US or Germany or wherever from cheap imported Chinese parts, then marked up like crazy and sold to the masses.Yea I had one of their ballast start to heat up and smoke. I had bought a few of them a long time ago because they were cheap and I was using them for my breeding tanks. There are lots of threads on them starting on fire and a long one on RC.
For the black boxes what some people may be seeing is not actual fire it is the cheap Chinese electronic components burning up like a resistor smoking. Chinese electronic can be very cheap especially capacitors.
To be fair, just about everything that you own that turns on is chock full of those cheap Chinese electronics components, especially capacitors. China is the largest manufacturer and exporter of electronic components on the planet, and they get used in just about everything. Your “made in USA” or “made in GERMANY” electronics are mainly just assembled in the US or Germany or wherever from cheap imported Chinese parts, then marked up like crazy and sold to the masses.
True. Same goes for assembled products. What I was getting at is some people immediately associate anything made in China as being totally inferior, when in reality the stuff they say is superior is actually either also made in China or comprised of Chinese made components and assembled elsewhere.Yea but there is a difference between a cheap Chinese factory and one from a reputable manufacturer in China as there is with anything made over there. Reputable manufactures have quality control.
I remember a while back one company that was basically selling component that were rejects from another company and didn't meet their QC.
Another good point. I bought a pack of 1,000 caYea I had one of their ballast start to heat up and smoke. I had bought a few of them a long time ago because they were cheap and I was using them for my breeding tanks. There are lots of threads on them starting on fire and a long one on RC.
For the black boxes what some people may be seeing is not actual fire it is the cheap Chinese electronic components burning up like a resistor smoking. Chinese electronic can be very cheap especially capacitors.
Thanks! Looks like power strips are the biggest offender, followed by heaters/pumps, with a few mentions of lights (none of them black boxes, if I read it correctly.) My experiences are about the same - fried power strips, glass heater failure, powerhead leaking current.This all stemmed from BRS and their “unbiased” black box video. At that time, I posted this thread which has some anecdotal data if you want to take a peek.
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What has Shorted/ Caught Fire in Your Tank?
Please vote in poll for items that have either caught fire or shorted or leaked stray voltage into your tank. If this is happened to you in any way, please write a post explaining what happened and the brand of the equipment that failed.www.reef2reef.com
Agreed. China has QC standards similar to UL and CSA, but they aren't mandatory.Yea but there is a difference between a cheap Chinese factory and one from a reputable manufacturer in China as there is with anything made over there. Reputable manufactures have quality control.
I remember a while back one company that was basically selling component that were rejects from another company and didn't meet their QC.
Another good point. I bought a pack of 1,000 ca
Thanks! Looks like power strips are the biggest offender, followed by heaters/pumps, with a few mentions of lights (none of them black boxes, if I read it correctly.) My experiences are about the same - fried power strips, glass heater failure, powerhead leaking current.
Interesting. Poor products usually weed themselves out of the market but that isn't the case here.The Coralife one that has started allot of fires over the years. Some have lost their house and it is still sold today.
If I remember right they have a sticker on it that says not for aquarium use even though it is sold through a aquarium equipment company and sold for use for aquariums. It is the reason I wont use their products.
Good ol' Omer Dersom. He was an attorney by trade, but Energy Savers/Coralife became his bread and butter. Interestingly, he was supportive of my early research efforts. I hear he sold his interest in the company years ago.The Coralife one that has started allot of fires over the years. Some have lost their house and it is still sold today.
If I remember right they have a sticker on it that says not for aquarium use even though it is sold through a aquarium equipment company and sold for use for aquariums. It is the reason I wont use their products.
Not to defend Coralife, but using any power strip around a saltwater aquarium entails some risks that are not related to the power strip. If moisture gets into the sockets and creates corrosion products, it can create a lot of resistance and the heat generated will meltdown the plastic and eventually start a fire. In my early days, I had a couple of power strips start smoking and I suspect that is what causes these house fires. I now always keep any power strips away from high humidity or potential spills and occasionally unplug and wipe away any corrosion products.
I also doubt that there is any aquarium light that is UL listed for wet locations (talking about the entire light - not just a component). I could be wrong, but it is very expensive to test for a low volume product and I think it would be difficult for any of them to pass.
I wonder how many people realize their Radions are not safety certified by UL, CSA Intertek etc. as well. Perhaps the black boxes add a label, the radions have none. They have CE but that is an electromagnetic approval, not safety.Good point. Look closely at UL labels for misspellings - a sign of a fake. Some authentic labels have a hologram and/or color shifting ink.

