@Hemmdog man I'm sorry @Scurvy can you give advice. I know you just we t through a similar experience.Hello;
This is what is painfully scary to full reef systems. The fact that anything wet and even aerial can infect a display tank is scary. As I mentioned I don’t add new fish because I had this false impression I would keep ick and marine velvet out of my tank. Knowing that it can spread by anything wet, and even aerial makes things kinda hard.
It’s almost like if a new fish is purchased, it goes in for up to 30 days for observation. Now that we can not dip corals and inverts, you would have to transfer them to a aka holding tank for observation. The fact velvet can lay dormant etc your new fish or coral may spend 60 days to 90 days in a separate tank. Doing a fresh water dip helps but no proof it’s rid of the disease. I definitely want to do more research on acrIflsvine-ms. It would be nice to find something that is universal because we have so little time.
What’s aggravating is even if we qt and do a fresh water dip on fish, there is still potential risk. There is potential risk on corals and or anything wet that can transfer. I find it hard enough to keep one tank not alone a hospital tank then an intermediary tank then the main display. Plus we are not even sure we can get rid of it.
@Sarah24! Part of the problem is that dinoflagellates are both good And bad. The bad is ich ,velvet and the variety that bloom in the tanks. The good are the ones that host coral. How do we distinguish between the good and the bad when we treat. They go dormant during stress. The reason blackouts don't work with blooms in the tank. Metro will cause this as well but will buy time. That's what I did in my reef and fowlr systems. Velvet brought in from a bicolor. Harbough died a day later. I dosed metro and was able to pick up copper the next day. Just my two cents.
By the way that's very generous of you on the clowns





