Brand New 8 gallon bio cube

@tdlawdo My understanding is they do a really good job on things. @Katrina71 even designed a hood prop with them if I recall correctly.

After seeing her sprinkler design, I'm surprised she would need any help with a hood prop! ;Hilarious
 
After seeing her sprinkler design, I'm surprised she would need any help with a hood prop! ;Hilarious

Down here we have "Southern Engineering" It get's the job done. LOL!
 
@tdlawdo I think OctoAquatics does a good job. I haven't ordered anything from him yet, but likely will eventually - should I ever find myself in possession of a functioning reef tank. I like his idea of encasing magnets in acrylic, instead of just covering them with a thin layer of plastic, which can leak and cause the magnets to corrode. He claims to have been the first one to make the acrylic tops for tanks, so that is pretty cool. He is an interesting fellow - kinda like you. :)

@Hemmdog I am useless when dealing with disease or parasite issues. I have just been extremely fortunate to not have had problems in the past. I did when I first started, up to the time I had my 200 gallon fish only tank. When I went to the 75 gallon reef and then the 140, I only had an occasional appearance of ich. I know my day is coming though. Humblefish has often said that Velvet is now rampant with fish coming from most suppliers. Hard to avoid it nowadays. I hope you can get a handle on this outbreak and not have too many losses.
 
With a velvet outbreak in my fo tank I used metro and copper.

The metro effects dino ability to reproduce. It may force then to encrust as well. It is just temp but it may buy you time.
 
I think OctoAquatics does a good job. I haven't ordered anything from him yet, but likely will eventually - should I ever find myself in possession of a functioning reef tank. I like his idea of encasing magnets in acrylic, instead of just covering them with a thin layer of plastic, which can leak and cause the magnets to corrode. He claims to have been the first one to make the acrylic tops for tanks, so that is pretty cool. He is an interesting fellow - kinda like you.
Ive got a dosing line holder from him. Its amazing. As of last night its used for turning on and off my fist gen fluval reef light
 
Hello,

It has been shown that doing a hypo salinity will also stress and kill the velvet but it can also stress the fish because your dropping the salinity so much. It’s been noted that dropping the salinity from 1.025 by 10 can cause it to drop off. Yet with that said it has not been verified, but can help kill it when In conjunction with the copper treatment. Remember this qt process simply does one thing and that is to kill the parasites on the fish and heal the fish. Sadly even after you do all of this, it won’t stop another infection and or outbreak. It is not verified if 76 days plus or minus is a current fallow period. Most use this as a fallow period but different strains are different beasts. Ideally the qt is to prevent it from hitting the main display tank. Where there is an outbreak in the qt it can be monitored, and then moved to a separate qt and monitored then placed back into the display. Cross contamination is your worst fear when fighting this, because simply wet hands, net, drop can start the process all over. I would also suggest get some kind of uv and even slow the dwell time down longer. Worse case you can use hydroperioxide but I need to find the dosage. It’s 20% per water volume, so for an example my tank is 240 but minus displacement you 200 but according to sources:

“Hydrogen peroxide is also FDA-approved for use in food fish as Perox-Aid, a 35% hydrogen peroxide solu- tion. Montgomery-Brock et al. (2000) described the use of 35% hydrogen peroxide to treat mullet (Mugil cephalus) fry infested with Amyloodinium. Fish in a flow-through seawater system were treated once with 25 mg/L hydro- gen peroxide for 30 minutes. Mortalities decreased from 200 to 1,000 fish per day to fewer than 10 per day within 3 days of treatment. The authors present data only for
the first 4 days following treatment. Repeated treat- ments would be necessary under most culture conditions. Removing tomonts following treatment might be an important strategy when using this method (Noga, 2010).”

“Thus, the effectiveness of using fresh water may depend upon the particular isolate of Amyloodinium. For most isolates that affect stenohaline marine fish (such as most tropical reef species), reducing salinity to < 10 ppt will usually be sufficient, but fish must be kept at this low salinity for at least 2 to 3 weeks. This strategy may not be as efficacious in euryhaline fish from estuarine environ- ments. While not yet verified, it is possible that trophonts remaining on the fish may survive the hyposalinity treatment and may be able to resume their life cycle when environmental conditions became more favorable”. (Demper 2005).
 
Hello,

It has been shown that doing a hypo salinity will also stress and kill the velvet but it can also stress the fish because your dropping the salinity so much. It’s been noted that dropping the salinity from 1.025 by 10 can cause it to drop off. Yet with that said it has not been verified, but can help kill it when In conjunction with the copper treatment. Remember this qt process simply does one thing and that is to kill the parasites on the fish and heal the fish. Sadly even after you do all of this, it won’t stop another infection and or outbreak. It is not verified if 76 days plus or minus is a current fallow period. Most use this as a fallow period but different strains are different beasts. Ideally the qt is to prevent it from hitting the main display tank. Where there is an outbreak in the qt it can be monitored, and then moved to a separate qt and monitored then placed back into the display. Cross contamination is your worst fear when fighting this, because simply wet hands, net, drop can start the process all over. I would also suggest get some kind of uv and even slow the dwell time down longer. Worse case you can use hydroperioxide but I need to find the dosage. It’s 20% per water volume, so for an example my tank is 240 but minus displacement you 200 but according to sources:

“Hydrogen peroxide is also FDA-approved for use in food fish as Perox-Aid, a 35% hydrogen peroxide solu- tion. Montgomery-Brock et al. (2000) described the use of 35% hydrogen peroxide to treat mullet (Mugil cephalus) fry infested with Amyloodinium. Fish in a flow-through seawater system were treated once with 25 mg/L hydro- gen peroxide for 30 minutes. Mortalities decreased from 200 to 1,000 fish per day to fewer than 10 per day within 3 days of treatment. The authors present data only for
the first 4 days following treatment. Repeated treat- ments would be necessary under most culture conditions. Removing tomonts following treatment might be an important strategy when using this method (Noga, 2010).”

“Thus, the effectiveness of using fresh water may depend upon the particular isolate of Amyloodinium. For most isolates that affect stenohaline marine fish (such as most tropical reef species), reducing salinity to < 10 ppt will usually be sufficient, but fish must be kept at this low salinity for at least 2 to 3 weeks. This strategy may not be as efficacious in euryhaline fish from estuarine environ- ments. While not yet verified, it is possible that trophonts remaining on the fish may survive the hyposalinity treatment and may be able to resume their life cycle when environmental conditions became more favorable”. (Demper 2005).
Thanks for that.
My clown didn’t make it :(
 
Thanks for that.
My clown didn’t make it :(

Hello,

First off I’m sorry your clown didn’t make it, I have crazy insane instore credit at my lfs and definitely don’t have a problem getting you another set, once (your tank is good). But I can have them put in a qt that I know is up to spec because I have been trying to help rescue fish now and like I said combing through scientific studies.

On a second note I normally give you likes on all your posts but I can’t on that one, it’s too sad and there is nothing to like when someone loses fish or coral. If you want a set of clowns let me know, and I will have the lfs qt them for 30-45 days then put them in a separate tank from all the others till yours are ready. That way we know there is no cross contamination with them. Again so sorry I was late to the emergency I hope others pull through.
 
Hello,

First off I’m sorry your clown didn’t make it, I have crazy insane instore credit at my lfs and definitely don’t have a problem getting you another set, once (your tank is good). But I can have them put in a qt that I know is up to spec because I have been trying to help rescue fish now and like I said combing through scientific studies.

On a second note I normally give you likes on all your posts but I can’t on that one, it’s too sad and there is nothing to like when someone loses fish or coral. If you want a set of clowns let me know, and I will have the lfs qt them for 30-45 days then put them in a separate tank from all the others till yours are ready. That way we know there is no cross contamination with them. Again so sorry I was late to the emergency I hope others pull through.
Aw thanks Sarah :) that was sweet. I’ll let you know. :)
 
Very sorry you lost another one.
:-(
Me too :( I’m just going to take Goodermuth’s advice and mentally prepare to lose them all :(
My flame angel in my 40b is showing signs now as well so I must of cross contaminated at some point. Most likely transferring over coral frags. Kind of unavoidable.
 
Me too :( I’m just going to take Goodermuth’s advice and mentally prepare to lose them all :(
My flame angel in my 40b is showing signs now as well so I must of cross contaminated at some point. Most likely transferring over coral frags. Kind of unavoidable.
Crap! Crap! Crap!
 
Hello;

This is what is painfully scary to full reef systems. The fact that anything wet and even aerial can infect a display tank is scary. As I mentioned I don’t add new fish because I had this false impression I would keep ick and marine velvet out of my tank. Knowing that it can spread by anything wet, and even aerial makes things kinda hard.

It’s almost like if a new fish is purchased, it goes in for up to 30 days for observation. Now that we can not dip corals and inverts, you would have to transfer them to a aka holding tank for observation. The fact velvet can lay dormant etc your new fish or coral may spend 60 days to 90 days in a separate tank. Doing a fresh water dip helps but no proof it’s rid of the disease. I definitely want to do more research on acrIflsvine-ms. It would be nice to find something that is universal because we have so little time.

What’s aggravating is even if we qt and do a fresh water dip on fish, there is still potential risk. There is potential risk on corals and or anything wet that can transfer. I find it hard enough to keep one tank not alone a hospital tank then an intermediary tank then the main display. Plus we are not even sure we can get rid of it.
 
Hello,

We need something faster than copper atm, have we considered hydrogen peroxide? Doing 35% dose may provide you long enough to keep them alive? I know people have dosed this in the reef tanks and corals are upset but it doesn’t kill them. I’m working on a source to make sure (one says 35% another says 20% of water volume).
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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