custom 93g acrylic cube reef tank build

Barrier Reef Aquariums
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www.dinkinsaquaticgardens.com
ReefPops said:
I have a mp10 on the back wall of my 45G cube. I'm thinking you would need at least two, but not sure about the 10 vs 40. I don't have many corals in but from sand I can tell I get a decent amount of flow. I believe my acrylic is around 3/8 and it works but you can tell its not the strongest connection.
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This is good to know... im leaning more towards 2 MP10s that should give me alot of control over flow.
 
i have an mp10 on my current 60 cube and its barely enough with not much rock work, i stongly think you will be happier if you get one mp40 to start with and go from there. also your lighting needs a big upgrade. not a fan of the marineland leds you will basically have no par halfway down the tank.
 
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pnavarro170 said:
i have an mp10 on my current 60 cube and its barely enough with not much rock work, i stongly think you will be happier if you get one mp40 to start with and go from there. also your lighting needs a big upgrade. not a fan of the marineland leds you will basically have no par halfway down the tank.
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Well thats good to know about the mp10... and the marinelands would most likly be temporary as i would eventually wanna do a DIY led fixture with 3w Cree leds so i can cover the whole cube with no shadows :-)
 
i would recommend 2 27" maxpect razors and it should cover the tank awesomely. if thats a word. lol, i just ordered one for my 60 cube.
 
Nutramar Foods
Check out this site Rapid LED they have a large selection and even have whole kits in all sizes that are dimmer able and.non dimmer able. Prices seem reasonable
 
grumpy-crab said:
Check out this site Rapid LED they have a large selection and even have whole kits in all sizes that are dimmer able and.non dimmer able. Prices seem reasonable
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i know of them for sure, but unless its under a canopy, its hard to have the overall look of it look nice. not just some heatsink with wires coming out of it. the timer and clock diy is way beyond what i want to attempt to do myself also. no interest in getting that into it, i like toys and the bells and whistles of things. Pendants and fixtures manufacuted will just 9 out of 10 times look better work better and from the start out the box. ill pay extra for that and engineering. Again if you can do it and make it look as good and work as good as some then more power to you. I dont have the skills or would want to take the time to do it right.
 
www.dinkinsaquaticgardens.com
pnavarro170 said:
i know of them for sure, but unless its under a canopy, its hard to have the overall look of it look nice. not just some heatsink with wires coming out of it. the timer and clock diy is way beyond what i want to attempt to do myself also. no interest in getting that into it, i like toys and the bells and whistles of things. Pendants and fixtures manufacuted will just 9 out of 10 times look better work better and from the start out the box. ill pay extra for that and engineering. Again if you can do it and make it look as good and work as good as some then more power to you. I dont have the skills or would want to take the time to do it right.
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I agree about the built ones... but im making a stand and canopy so the heat sink wont be visible :-) and i would like to run a controller for full control of all channels. But yes a pendant does always look cleaner with a cube then just a light with brackets.
 
Here is a pick of my 29g that i currently have set up. I will be upgrading from this to my 93g cube :-)

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Still haven't picked the tank up yet but im now im design mode for the stand and canopy. Im thinking 2x4 frame work for the stand and 1x2 frame work for the canopy

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Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED bar
I haven't up dated for awile. Been kinda busy. But im about to head to lowes to pick up all the framing material :) so should make some progress tonight :)

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Me either haha. Ive done wood working before but not a stand and canopy. And ive decided on the frame work to be a perfect cube. So 30x30x30 for frame work.

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Well i got all 8 of the 2x4s this stand is gonna be heavy and way over built but i think that might just be a good thing. Im getting ready to start getting down to it... I will up date with pics as the process goes along :)

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First off this is why i never use the factory cut ends its about a 1/16 out of square as u can see. Always better to make a fresh square end and start square to start :)

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Ok i need some advise... ive started cutting for the stand... when in realized i havent allowed any wiggle room by over sizeing the width and length :-( i was making the exact size of the tank which is 30x30 and i now think i should make the stand 30 1/4 X 30 1/4 to allow a little extra room. It would be easy to change it now then when its all glued and screwed together... anyone else agree?

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