cyano making me psycho

jrbates08 · May 11, 2014

PH 8.4
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10
Can test phosphates or silicates. I'm using an API SALTWATER MASTER TEST KIT also yes I notice my nitrite vial is a bit low, I did that after the test and retested again to make sure I didn't make a mistake.
Flow is steady. I have a 1600gph dual head wavemaker and a smaller 300 l/h pump. Plus I have a custom made 7 nozzle return on the opposite side of the 1600gph powerhead that also acts as a sort of jet but it's not too strong. I'd say equivalent to maybe a 600....Also what I mean by my CUC is not touching it, means that I never see any of the hermits or snails in the cyano areas. It's only on the sand bed and some of the extra shells I have laying around. Doesn't seem to be on the LR at all. I mean there might be a small amount that I'm not noticing but not anything I'm definitely going crazy over like the sand bed. So as far as getting more of a CUC, I'm not seeing much of the point when the ones I do have that I was instructed would take care of the cyano is not even doing their jobs. I know it's not an overnight miracle but I don't even see them by the areas

so do I keep stirring the sand bed everyday. Lights out for 3 days. Then on 3rd day do a water change and then it will just be gone? I stirred the sand up yesterday and it still seems fine today bit it'll be back tomoro I'll bet lol

jrbates08 · May 11, 2014

Oh sorry and my tank has been up for 3 months today

CastAway · May 11, 2014

Looks like some Nitrates there, and some ammonia I think.

VicD81 · May 11, 2014

+1 indeed. Your Nitrates are high and you need to test for phosphates They both should be WAY less than 1. That is what is feeding you cyano. Until you get that in check you will never win the battle. If you are feeding at all you might be over doing it. Do you have a skimmer or sump?

VicD81 · May 11, 2014

Also your cuc will not eat cyano. The best they can do is stir up the sand bed so it will not be able to form, but with with your Trates that high and your phosphates a mystery that is likely the cause.

YHSublime · May 11, 2014

Your tank is still new at 3 months. Like others mentioned, you've got some phosphate and nitrate, not bad, but enough to cause cyano. How many water changes have you done on the tank? Do you do them frequently? What is your photo period like? Do you run a skimmer? What type of powerhead, and how big is your tank?

Ladysaber · May 11, 2014

I agree with phosphate. Did you buy your live rock cured or was it bought "fresh"? All live rock will leach out "some" phosphate, but if your rock wasn't cured, this is going to be a big cause of the "ugly tank syndrome". Most of us have gone through this ourselves.

API are "ok" tests. I think their tests are better suited for freshwater. I've had better and more accurate results using Salifert tests and my Hanna Checkers (API has always given me wonky results).

Patience is a virtue and you need a ton of it in this hobby.. Good luck!

jrbates08 · May 11, 2014

Ok I'm gonna try to answer all the questions and attach photos. I'm not brilliant at this stuff and the guy helping me is the one saying yay or nay. Ok. Here we go. Yes we have a skimmer (actually 2) and a sump. We have 2 skimmers because the one the set up came with was old school and we weren't sure if it was working right so I spent about $200 and got another. We do water changes every week. 10-15% using a RO/DI unit and mixing our own salt. Photo period? I'm hoping that means the lighting period? Lol. Sorry still new at this. We run the regular lights for 6-8 hours and the moon lights for 4. So about 10-12 hours depending on our work schedules. Our power head is a 1600gph dual head wavemaker and we also have a smaller 300l/h pump along with a custom 7 nozzle return that acts as a smaller jet. I'm not sure of the brand of power head. I got it from ebay. We are running a 75g with LS and LR. The sand was wet when we got it. Also the LR was very well established as the owner of the LFS took it straight from his tank to ours cuz he was moving stores and it made for less transport. We have approx 60-70 pounds I'd guess.. (?) I'm sorry guys I'm trying my best..here are some pix

1. Params.

2. Sump and 2 skimmers. One is an Aqua Urchin brand (old school) and the other is..MAKE IN CHINA (lol jk) I can't see a name but it says...submersible force pump AC120v 60 Hz 32W Hmax:1.8m FLmax:2000l/h. That's it for that one.

3. Lights. There are 4 lights. 2 are the regular day light a and 2 are moon lights. I'm sorry I don't know the difference between LED, UV, AND whatever else kind there are.

4. Powerheads and smaller pump in back
5. The custom return that also works as a smaller jet

hope this helps. I will go tomoro to get a kit to test phosphates. But in the meantime is there anything I can be doing?

jayhawk · May 11, 2014

I agree with the nitrates but I think phosphates will be the answer. Phosphates will likely read lower due to the cyano feeding off of it and any other algae so make sure to be cognizant of that. The best way to combat your issue is to have a great skimmer. I noticed you have two. Two doesn't beat one good one. Also using mechanical filteration will help. Mechanical can be granulated ferric oxide (GFO), carbon, bio pellets...If upgrading or adding equipment isn't an option, I use Red Sea NoPox to stop cyano. Use 1 ml per 10 gallons. Be very careful at first. Use 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended dose. Use net water volume and not gross volume to calculate actual gallons to be treated.

VicD81 · May 11, 2014

The lights you have are power compacts. No one really uses them because they do not give off very much light, but they look old. As they age they will change spectrum and feed algae. Might want to change them. Also I dont see any chemical or biological filtration except for the chato. Look into GFO OR Biopellets and def get yourself some carbon. You can throw in a bag of carbon but reactors work better.

jrbates08 · May 11, 2014

jayhawk said:
I agree with the nitrates but I think phosphates will be the answer. Phosphates will likely read lower due to the cyano feeding off of it and any other algae so make sure to be cognizant of that. The best way to combat your issue is to have a great skimmer. I noticed you have two. Two doesn't beat one good one. Also using mechanical filteration will help. Mechanical can be granulated ferric oxide (GFO), carbon, bio pellets...If upgrading or adding equipment isn't an option, I use Red Sea NoPox to stop cyano. Use 1 ml per 10 gallons. Be very careful at first. Use 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended dose. Use net water volume and not gross volume to calculate actual gallons to be treated.

ok my husband said he thinks we have mechanical in the old school one. There's 3 trays. 1 has little plastic looking balls lol the second has carbon and third has filter. Then in the secondary filter there are these little white Rick looking things in a net, carbon and ......He just ran out to the garage again and I forgot what the other thing was. I'll post pics.

This is the little white "rocks" along with carbon and (?) In the secondary filter.

This one is the one in the sump. I guess the main one that has the black little plastic balls, carbon and the filters??? I'm sorry, I suck. But he is painting our motorcycles right now and if i bug him about this tank 1 more time he's gonna be crabby

jrbates08 · May 11, 2014

Ok those posted sideways

flip ur phone or whatever to the RIGHT lol

jrbates08 · May 11, 2014

VicD81 said:
The lights you have are power compacts. No one really uses them because they do not give off very much light, but they look old. As they age they will change spectrum and feed algae. Might want to change them. Also I dont see any chemical or biological filtration except for the chato. Look into GFO OR Biopellets and def get yourself some carbon. You can throw in a bag of carbon but reactors work better.

The lights are "believed to be" only..well we've had them for 3 months and the guy said when we got them they were 4 months, sooo 7 months. Is that old?? If so, could u please suggest some that won't break the bank but will do the job for a 75g tank??

jayhawk · May 12, 2014

From what I can see, I suggest ditching the mechanical filtration you have except a bag, or two, of carbon. I would also forget the chaeto unless you are using it for copepods/amphipods. For your tank size you would need a larger amount to assist with phosphate absorption. I would invest in a "two little fishies" reactor. They are probably the best inexpensive solution for a reactor. I would add EcoBak bio pellets. I have tried many different products but EcoBak has worked for me. Within a few weeks the EcoBak should be seeded and doing its job. During this two week period you may get a bacteria bloom which creates fuzz on rocks and sometimes white stringy material. This is unsightly but an indication that good things are happening. It will clear up so do not worry. In the interim use Red Sea NoPox to get nitrates and phosphates in check. I do agree with the prior post about lights. As the lights degrade, color spectrums degrade as well. This could cause cyano.

jrbates08 · May 12, 2014

Ok I just had the white stringy spider Web looking stuff like 5 days ago. And I do still have the fuzzier on my rock but it's greenish

VicD81 · May 12, 2014

Theoretically you should change the lights every 6 months but that is just a precautionary because our eyes cant see the gradual change in spectrum, but the algae that feed off of it sure as heck do. Thats why people lean more towards LEDs.

Mechanical filters are those you have to physically remove and clean like Sponges, filter socks and Skimmers.
Biological are the ones that harbor bacteria for nitrification. Bioballs house nitrifying bacteria but they trap a lot of detritus and become what people call a "nitrate factory" (which is why the masses have generally done away with this form of filter). Biomax are the white ceramic cylinders you have. They work the same as your LR. You could essentially remove that and just add more LR. you should have 1-1.5 Lbs per gallon. Biopellets are a form of carbon dosing they feed nitrifying bacteria with in turn will reduce your Nitrates and Phosphates.
Chemical would be your carbon. With the bag you have in there now most of the water will flow around. Very minimal with actually flow through it.
GFO - not sure if this falls under bio or chem but they are excellent at removing phosphates you should only run GFO or Biopellets.

There are many different ways you can set up your filtration none are wrong. That filter you have looks like its a HOB. You could get rid of that get yourself some reactors (which are much more efficient) and put them in your sump out of view. That's what its for.

In my setup I've got a Skimmer, carbon reactor and biopellet reactor, That's it.

jrbates08 · May 12, 2014

Ok looks like I'm going shopping lol oh btw......FREE FEEDING FOR YOUR ALGEA AND CYANO IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED. JUST STOP BY MY TANK CUZ IM DOING A DA*N GOOD JOB AND FEEDING THEM ALL lol ok I'm just gonna take this message to the supplier and say hook me up. My husband is gonna beat me lol