cyano making me psycho

VicD81 · May 12, 2014

Yes you can use both. one for carbon and one for biopellets or GFO. You can even use two of the second filter. That's what im using. Remember do not do both GFO and Biopellets.

VicD81 · May 12, 2014

you can get one used no harm in that. If you can find one. Check out Bulkreefsupply They review and explain most of their products. That second one is one of theirs.

jrbates08 · May 12, 2014

Ok so the second one in post #40, that can be used for GFO right? If i get that I won't have to get one for bio pellets? Here's one I found for bio pellets..

Bulk Reef Supply Bio Pellet Reactor - Remove Nitrate & Phosphates

I'm going to be a typical woman here and say "just tell me which one to buy lol"

jrbates08 · May 12, 2014

Posts #39 & #40 are both gfo, carbon reactors. Then post #42 is the bio pellet reactor. I'm confused on weather I need both or not. I think I'm getting confused because they say GFO, carbon. Like, is that an option or what? I know u said u only run EITHER bio pellets or the GFO. But what is GFO? I know it removes phosphates but what is it physically? Is it carbon?

jrbates08 · May 12, 2014

The more and more I talk, the more dumb I'm feeling. Ugh!!!

VicD81 · May 12, 2014

LOL! Cant tell you which to buy but I can tell you thats what I use for carbon and biopellets.

BRS GFO & Carbon Reactor - Single - Bulk Reef Supply

Reactor and Biopellet Combo Pack - Bulk Reef Supply

I haven't finished my build yet but the right one will have carbon and the left one will be biopellets

Check out my build
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/member-tanks/154212-72-bow-freshwater-conversion.html

VicD81 · May 12, 2014

They say carbon/gfo because it can be used with either or, or even a mix of both. check out the video on their site they explain it.

Read up on GFO and biopellets though. Some people love it some people hate it. And i think you can over do it with GFO but hard to OD on biopellets.

TrishW · May 12, 2014

GFO = Granular Ferric Oxide

jrbates08 · May 12, 2014

My gosh lol thank you for dumbing that down to my level lol I was feeling quite dumb. Ok I'm just copying ur set up lol. Hope u don't mind

Bad Company · May 12, 2014

Cyano is funny. Sometimes it goes away on its own. What most people don't tell you is that live rock can have a TON of die off. And this can take weeks to become "metabolized" by your tank. The die-off will feed cyano unitil then. Often people want to spend money on a quick fix or chemicals, where patience works as well.

jrbates08 · May 12, 2014

Well I'm not trying to sound like a know it all or snooty patooty but chemicals are my very very last resort. I don't like artifical ANYTHING and I like nature to take its course. Right now I have the lights off and I'm blowing the rocks off 2 times a day. On day 3 I'll do a 10-20% water change and turn the lights back on. I'm in no hurry to kill anything. I've waited almost 3 months now so a couple more won't hurt. I want everything PERFECT and consistent before I add anything that can be harmed in the process. I'm glad I've listened to my instincts and have not gotten any fish when I was told I was ok to fill my tank (and I'm pretty spontaneous too lol) but I'm glad I held back with this cyano problem now

VicD81 · May 12, 2014

The problem with doing the 3 day lights out is that your nutients need to be put in check. Maybe a better skimmer and those reactors. If not they will just keep coming back. You shopping list should be

Test kits (Red sea, Salifert or Hanna checkrs)
A Better Skimmer (Your main Nutrient Export)
Light bulbs
Reactors
Maybe some more LR.

Also the trick to the whole 3 days lights out is to not have anylight. Even ambient light is too much. When I did it I taped a towel around it and closed all the shades. No need to blow the sand everywhere.

jrbates08 · May 12, 2014

Good to know and VicD81 thank u for that shopping list. That helps!!!

VicD81 · May 12, 2014

Np im at work and have nothing better to do. :typing: Don't tell my boss. LOL.

jrbates08 · May 12, 2014

Lol wish I had a job like that. Except everywhere I walk I either hear HEY NURSE, HEY DR, OR HEY YOU OUT THERE lol. I'm a PA and people can't make up their mind what they want me to be lol. Half the time they don't even know what they need me for either lol

reeffirstaid · May 12, 2014

Typically Cyano is a direct result of phosphates. What are you testing with? There seems, at least IME, to be a big difference to phosphate readings from a liquid test kit, and Ultra Low Readings from a digital measuring device. Stirring your sand is a bad idea, as it can de-stabilize water chemistry and leaving your lights off will just make it impossible to keep photosynthetic animals. Since your tank is essentially cycling, you may find that cyano comes and goes, until the cycle is totally complete. I would add a Phos Ban reactor, and possibly a bio-pellet reactor, down the road.

LegitFish · May 12, 2014

I have found a lot of times cyano is caused by fluctuation of temp and Alk/pH. Once these are stable, the cyano usually goes way.

BDeVaney · May 12, 2014

I don't normally recommend specific products but I would give "Aquamaxx Ultramaxx All in One" filter media a try. I had a similar cyano problem where all levels/Params were fine. Pull all carbon and any other filter media and use this aquamaxx stuff. A lot of carbon and other filter media will eventually re release nitrates back into your system. This product will not do that. It is an inexpensive way to put an end to this. Started using it on my 45 gallon 8 month old reef about 2 weeks ago and I notice a huge difference. The little cyano I had has died off and not come back. It is a simple to use products and comes with it's own filter bag. Product seems great so far

VicD81 · May 12, 2014

Can you clear up what you got for your ammonia? Was it 0 or .25? If it is 0 you are prob ok to add a fish or two like a damsel or clown. As of now you shouldnt really be feeding, that is our main source of phosphates and nitrates. If you get a fish, only feed enough for the fish. They in turn feed your CUC with detritus (Fish poop) and algae. Your tank is still new and because you used LR you prob still have somethings dying and being decomposed. My trates didnt come down to 0 till about month 6. only thing I can really see is your feeding sched, old lights and maybe an inefficient skimmer. No need to stress about cyano yet. Its bound to happen to every new reef.

evankouteren · May 12, 2014

What really helped my fighting cyan's was installing a "wervelbedfilter". Sorry in Dutch, don't know the English word, but it's a filter for the sump, with a pump attached, causing carbon pellets to whirl. The carbon binds phosphates and nitrates in the water, this with regular water changes dramatically decreased the cyano issue!