DC Pump Aggravation - No Re-Start after Short Power Loss

They should put a delay timer built into the controller of these pumps.

I'm all for that. It already has a slow, ramping restart, but obviously not long enough.

So I've ordered up one of these surge/delay outlets from HERE for $8.99.
 
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Also is this a common problem with this brand of pump or all DC?

That's a good question. I took it as any and all DC pumps that have a chance of back spin are subjected to this "stalling." Maybe @ca1ore could verify this....he's the smart one who identified the issue with my Waveline DC6000.
 
I'm all for that. It already has a slow, ramping restart, but obviously not long enough.

So I've ordered up one of these surge/delay outlets from HERE for $8.99.

This is a really neat solution. Let us know how this works. I built a time delay circuit for my skimmer that would work for this use case, but the device relies on an AC/DC power supply to run a DC timer. If the power isn't out long enough for the AC/DC power supply to drain, the timer circuit won't register that the power failed, and it won't start the countdown.
 
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They should put a delay timer built into the controller of these pumps.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around selecting one of these variable speed pumps for the return application to begin with. Seems so "extra" as to suggest doing otherwise, forget the other issues/workarounds/etc. Plus the AC pumps on the market were more or less designed for the role and are (unsurprisingly) nearly perfect for it. I guess it's all good. :)
 
I'm still trying to wrap my head around selecting one of these variable speed pumps for the return application to begin with. Seems so "extra" as to suggest doing otherwise, forget the other issues/workarounds/etc. Plus the AC pumps on the market were more or less designed for the role and are (unsurprisingly) nearly perfect for it. I guess it's all good. :)

Matt, I can't argue with you about reliability. I ran a MAG 9.5 for about nine years, and the only issue was the stainless screws rusted up. My issue with the MAG is that it's an energy hog. I was also running a MAG 24, and between the two of them, I don't think my heaters ever came on. I've been trying to go more "green" and that's one of the reasons I've switched to LEDs, low energy consumption skimmer, and DC return pump. If this delay outlet addresses this one issue with the DC pump, my only remaining complaint is that they do have to be cleaned frequently (I have it on a six month cleaning schedule). My MAG only got cleaned when I would do a sump clean....maybe every 3 - 4 years, and not like it needed it because it stopped, like the DC pump does when snotted up.
 
FWIW, I noted the 'back-spinning' problem on my PanWorld AC pump, so it's not limited to DC. I'd imagine any magnetically driven pump impeller would be suceptible. Perhaps direct driven pumps like Reeflo would be less affected.
 
I have a DC pump, Jebao. The pump always starts back up after a power failure, never stalls. Honestly you may just need to get a different pump. You can get a nice Jebao pump for under $100, and all your troubles will be gone.
 
FWIW, I noted the 'back-spinning' problem on my PanWorld AC pump, so it's not limited to DC. I'd imagine any magnetically driven pump impeller would be suceptible. Perhaps direct driven pumps like Reeflo would be less affected.

Me too. You can hear the impeller spinning backwards on mine when I turn it off. It's got enough torque to overcome the backflow though on start up. Non issue for me.
 
Do you all drill a small hole on your return right behind the nozzle up right by water level? It will break the siphon fast. I run the Reef Octo and have zero issues with this.
 
Do you have a siphon hole in the return pipe? This cannot do anything with the water in the tube, but they do stop the siphon almost immediately.

Swing valves are not all that bad... they can still get hard and stop working, but they are better than a traditional check valve.

Put a Laguna or Fluval on your list of future equipment - they are not all that power hungry, only heat the tank a bit and are less noisy that a mag can get.
 
There aren't many reliable pumps that can push against 14-15' of net head pressure - and none that will do it economically. If there was, I'd be using it!
Ok, it costs a lot to pump water that high. is you sump in a basement or something?
 
Do you all drill a small hole on your return right behind the nozzle up right by water level? It will break the siphon fast.....

Do you have a siphon hole in the return pipe?.....

My return lines are not below the waterline, so no siphon break needed. It's just the water in the pipe back-flowing.

Return LocLines.jpg
 
Me too. You can hear the impeller spinning backwards on mine when I turn it off. It's got enough torque to overcome the backflow though on start up. Non issue for me.

That's good. In my case the sump is in the basement and there's 12' of 1 1/2" pipe to drain. Even my PW250 doesn't have enough torque to overcome that. I suspect 3-4' of 1" pipe draining to an under stand sump, for example, would be much less problematic.
 
I have a DC pump, Jebao. The pump always starts back up after a power failure, never stalls. Honestly you may just need to get a different pump. You can get a nice Jebao pump for under $100, and all your troubles will be gone.

Not sure if that suggestion was for me or not ..... regardless, gave me a good laugh.
 
That's good. In my case the sump is in the basement and there's 12' of 1 1/2" pipe to drain. Even my PW250 doesn't have enough torque to overcome that. I suspect 3-4' of 1" pipe draining to an under stand sump, for example, would be much less problematic.

My PS150 is connected to my basement sump.
 
I doubt you could DIY anything for less than $10!

Many of the newer pumps have circuitry that protects the pump from burning out if the impeller gets jammed, so that's probably what's going on - the back flowing water is causing the same effect and triggering a safety shutdown. I have had the same issue with a COR20 and a Varios6
 
I doubt you could DIY anything for less than $10!

Many of the newer pumps have circuitry that protects the pump from burning out if the impeller gets jammed, so that's probably what's going on - the back flowing water is causing the same effect and triggering a safety shutdown. I have had the same issue with a COR20 and a Varios6
But does it start back up? Or do you have to reset the controller?
 
If you are good at electronic projects there is time delay relays that you can put inline with the pump and power the relay off the same outlet as the pump.
 

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